Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [dugl33] Top Rope Soloing with Petzl Ascension ascender: Edit Log




mju6559


May 24, 2013, 2:34 AM

Views: 5256

Registered: Mar 16, 2013
Posts: 10

Re: [dugl33] Top Rope Soloing with Petzl Ascension ascender
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Honestly,
This is the perfect method for roped soloing that I have seen, tried and tested.

I have tried the system using the GriGri2 and Silent Partner. Hated both.

I now use a Petzl Ascention Ascender AND a Petzl Mini-Traxion as my redundant backup device. I climb using 2 separate strands of a 10.4mm rope rigged from above (I normally do laps on routes less than 100 ft high) and this system works like a charm leaving both hands FREE to climb with and not have to be feeding rope thru distracting you, etc.

Now for the other systems - The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly:

GriGri2 with back up knots on a 2nd strand of rope:
I didn't care for this method b/c one has to keep physically PULLING the climbing rope THRU the GriGri as one ascends. There is a lot of rope drag inside of this device and this is a real PITA because it limits the level of difficulty of a route one can climb b/c you need to have a free hand to keep pulling the slack rope up thru the GriGri. Not optimal for doing laps on hard routes at your max skill level. The 1 ADVANTAGE of this rig tho IS the ability to rap OFF of the route after a fall or if tired w/o needing to rig a separate rap device, etc. to lower off the route.

Silent Partner with a 2nd backup device or knots on the 2nd strand of rope:
Hated this as well.
1) The Silent Partner costs $250 brand new or around $150 used. It is bulky and heavy. It does lock up in a fall for sure with the clove hitch inside of the device - and that's part of the problem! Once you fall onto it, it's a SOB to undo the cinched clove hitch w/o somehow taking weight off the device when hanging from the device! You have to either connect a Prussik to get your weight off of the device to free it up, or a jumar, or - get back on-route or a ledge or stance and get your weight OFF of the unit - and AT THAT - dick around with at least 1 hand to get the clove hitch freed up. That was def a PITA for ME.

So for about $150 if purchased BRAND NEW - the Petzl Ascention Ascender AND a Petzl Mini-Traxion[/b seems to be the best option / system that I have used yet! With just your pack or something weighing a few lbs tied to the bottom of your ropes at the base of the route - both devices will feed thru the rope with 99% ease and leaves BOTH hands free to climb the max difficulty of the route(s) you are working...


(This post was edited by mju6559 on May 24, 2013, 2:44 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by mju6559 () on May 24, 2013, 2:44 AM


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