Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [UpToTheOzone] Single butterfly coil backpack help and multipitch rope management: Edit Log




moose_droppings


May 26, 2013, 2:33 PM

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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3356

Re: [UpToTheOzone] Single butterfly coil backpack help and multipitch rope management
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UpToTheOzone wrote:
I've got the double butterfly coil down pretty well but I've realized the benefits of having the rope single coiled so that it doesn't need to be re-flaked. Does anyone have a video to reference or photo's of how to create a (semi) comfortable single coil butterfly backpack? I met an Aussie at Devils Tower who made a perfect backpack without even thinking about it when we were rapping with another party.

As far as multi-pitch rope management, I need to get better at controlling my loop sizes when in a hanging belay. When swinging leads I can usually make progressively shorter loops over my tether or feet, but I have to start out with friggin 20 foot loops! When leading in blocks and using the "flip" technique to my partners tether, I more often than not end up with a tangle. It's to the point where I'll usually reflake the rope over their tether instead of flipping.

I shared a couple belays with a guy on Snake Dike that was leading the entire route who had this dialed. Any advice out there on getting better at choosing the size of my loops? I know nothing is a substitute for experience, but maybe there's an easy technique that I'm overlooking

By "20 foot loops" do you mean 40 foot of rope as in 20 down and 20 back up on one side and the same on the other side? If that's what you mean then your loops are to long. I start out with around 10' loops and shorten each loop slightly as I get more rope in. If leading in blocks, start out with about one foot loops and gradually get the loops longer for flipping over to your second.


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on May 26, 2013, 2:57 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by moose_droppings () on May 26, 2013, 2:35 PM
Post edited by moose_droppings () on May 26, 2013, 2:57 PM


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