Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [Dml] Belay technique question: Edit Log


Jun 3, 2013, 6:16 AM

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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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Re: [Dml] Belay technique question
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I'll chime in and disagree with some of what has been said. There is nothing wrong with palm up (lead) belaying. It is easier for many to feed rope in and out quickly using palm up and it is perfectly safe to catch falls like this if you are competent and paying attention. I'm not sure if new climbers are taught this more often but I can assure you that many very experienced climbers use palm up technique and do it well. I personally don't believe that either is particularly superior. As long as you can provide an adequate catch, feed rope in and out (quickly) as required, either method can be's not the method as much as it is the execution.

Now if you're talking belaying a TR, and the way you asked about pinching the "feeder hand", I suspect you are, I prefer to belay palm down. Then you can take your guide hand (non-brake hand) and grab below the brake hand to slide your brake hand back up. But if you are using palm up method and pinching the rope above you belay device...then no, I don't think it matters one bit how you grab the rope with your non-brake hand to perform the pinch. The only function of that "feeder hand" at that point is to hold the brake strand tight enough to slide the brake hand back. This can be done adequately with two fingers or four.

(This post was edited by csproul on Jun 3, 2013, 7:50 AM)

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Post edited by csproul () on Jun 3, 2013, 7:50 AM

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