Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [Dml] Belay technique question: Edit Log




jt512


Jun 3, 2013, 2:45 PM

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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21890

Re: [Dml] Belay technique question
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Dml wrote:
All that said, my question related to an exchange I recently had with someone. They tried to tell me that when taking up slack, after a clip, that my non-brake hand should grasp the rope with my full hand instead of two fingers.

That's ambiguous. Which side of the rope are you talking about?

In reply to:
Their point was that if someone were to fall while my hand was in mid-slide, my non-braking hand would help to catch the fall. I disagreed, for many reasons that have been stated already, namely that anything that is preventing my brake hand from going down is a bad thing and to be avoided. I was just trying to see if anyone else had ever heard anything like this before.

No, I've never heard of anything like that before, and it is flat-out wrong. Using the "pinch-and-slide" belay technique, your non-brake hand is always on the non-brake side of the rope. When, after taking in slack, you prepare to slide your brake hand down the brake side of the rope, you stabilize the brake side of the rope by lightly pinching it with your non-brake hand, but your non-brake hand remains around the non-brake side of the rope. If you were to close your non-brake hand around the brake side of the rope, you would be locking both strands of the rope together in front of you, which is probably the most dangerous thing you could do while belaying. If the leader were to fall, you would have almost no chance of stopping him before he hit the deck.

Tell your friend he has no idea what he is talking about.


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 3, 2013, 2:46 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jt512 () on Jun 3, 2013, 2:46 PM


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