Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [Dml] Belay technique question: Edit Log


Jun 5, 2013, 11:14 AM

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Registered: Dec 12, 2002
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Re: [Dml] Belay technique question
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Having your hands parallel to each other (when rope is formed like a "U" in the belly device) is dangerous.

if leader takes a fall when hands are in parallel next to each other, there are minimum friction on the tube type belay devices and by the time belayer wants to stop the fall( if not burning their hand during the process) leader will take bigger fall.

IMO,best way to belay is to have one hand pulling the rope from above the belay device at all the time while one hand pulling the rope below the belay device and then sliding the grip hand "create an "O" (never let go off the rope) bring the hand up till hits the belay device, grip and pull rope. Letting one hand go off the rope and putting it below the grip hand " as shown on the vid" is ok but not efficient in lead climbing.

make an "O" slide and grip (IMO best,safe and fastest to stop a fall and or manage a slow catch fall)

pulling using left hand while pulling locking taking slack off with right hand

given slack to leader or resetting taking slack off ( no hands are ever off any part of rope.

Parallel belay ( Again IMO most dangerous way to manage rope specially if leader takes fall when both hands are up next to each other and rope is shaped like a "U" . I believe this the most common way they teach belaying in gyms.

(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jun 5, 2013, 10:05 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Jun 5, 2013, 10:02 PM
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Jun 5, 2013, 10:03 PM
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Jun 5, 2013, 10:05 PM

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