Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [billl7] EDK Anchor: Edit Log


Jun 8, 2013, 8:09 PM

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Registered: Jun 4, 2013
Posts: 34

Re: [billl7] EDK Anchor
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billl7 wrote:
Well, if you really need to not have a knot there when you're done for the day and if your cord is long enough ...

* pretend there is a fourth piece of gear;
* when you thread the cord through the pieces, leave the two ends in the vicinity of the imaginary fourth piece;
* tie the power point's knot as shown in the picture.

The two ends are then isolated from any load by the power point's knot. You can tie them together however you like and it does not matter or leave them free. They will never see a load.

Bill L

P.S. Personally, I just tie the double fishermans and rarely untie it.

This sounds like a great option, but I am concerned with how much tail I would have to leave if I dont knot the chordelette. Plus there is something psychologically screaming at me when I conceptualize an open ended rope on an anchor, regardless of how safe it is. I like the idea of a permanent double fisherman's but at enchanted rock I often need to tie anchors using a bowline knot. Do you have any other suggestions? Are you deliberately staying away from the double EDK because your concerned with its safety?

(This post was edited by jberk on Jun 8, 2013, 8:13 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by jberk () on Jun 8, 2013, 8:13 PM

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