Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [swaghole] EDK Anchor: Edit Log


Jun 9, 2013, 6:51 AM

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Registered: Nov 1, 2010
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Re: [swaghole] EDK Anchor
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swaghole wrote:

Instead of climbing wiith a cordalette that is tied in a loop, you could try building your anchors with a cordalette that is not looped but instead has figure 8s tied at each end.

The above method will not equalize the pieces well as most of the load will be transferred to the piece with the double strand. The single strands will stretch more because there is less material on those legs.

You could just NOT tie the cordelette into a loop.... by pulling the loose ends through the one main knot.

Pretty easy to do.
-Grab both ends together (creating an imaginary loop).
-Clip your pieces and pull down the loops to your loose ends. You can adjust the length of the loops by pulling slack on loose ends(great feature).
-Tie your knot (8 or overhand) with the loops and loose ends.
-Tighten and dress....even the loose ends

You will end up with double strands to all pieces (with no knots), a big knot, 2 loop masterpoint (for a 3 piece anchor) plus the loose ends exiting from the bottom of the knot.

Credit to knudenoggin for this concept.

(This post was edited by padlinfool on Jun 9, 2013, 6:56 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by padlinfool () on Jun 9, 2013, 6:54 AM
Post edited by padlinfool () on Jun 9, 2013, 6:56 AM

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