Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [theguy] Fancy Rabbit-Ear + Rap Rings Anchor: Edit Log


Jun 13, 2013, 10:55 AM

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Registered: Feb 6, 2004
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Re: [theguy] Fancy Rabbit-Ear + Rap Rings Anchor
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Jim, thank you for posting all that. I understand it's unreasonable and unhelpful to publish raw data, but it's helpful to see these added details of your methods and the analysis.

I would like to add a synopsis of your results to the information sheet on the ACR, so people can make more informed decisions. I can only do this if I can personally vouch for the testing and the thinking behind those results. I especially need to know that the ACR method tested is substantially the same as the one we're describing. This includes, especially, kinowing it was tied to limit extension to under a foot.

I still respectfully disagree that a carabiner is a good candidate for replacing the ring. An HMS biner is not, as you suggest, designed to take loads off the strong axis. In your own testing, you said you used 90 degree angles between the outer arms. It's not hard to imagine a carabiner used in place of the ring getting cockeyed, resulting in the load going directly across the gate. The Petzl Atache I use is rated to 7kn across the weak axis; barely more than the gate-open strength. And its locking ring provides another rough surface you don't want cord running over.

Even if these weren't concerns, I'd argue for the ring. People who use the ACR overwhelmingly say they do so for the speed of rigging. The ring eliminates a piece of hardware to attach, it eliminates a critical safety step (putting a half twist in the cord) and gives you one less thing to have to check at the anchor. And it doesn't get in the way if you don't need it, the way pre-tied knots in an equalette do.

(This post was edited by paulraphael on Jun 13, 2013, 11:11 AM)

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Post edited by paulraphael () on Jun 13, 2013, 11:11 AM

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