Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [cmn003] Single vs Multi-Pitch ?'s: Edit Log


Jun 15, 2013, 8:36 AM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
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Re: [cmn003] Single vs Multi-Pitch ?'s
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cmn003 wrote:
So help me out here; you're 80% of the way up your pitch, which is also about 80% of your rope, and you just can't do it. You're totally exhausted and can't finish the climb. How do you get down?
Can you pull on gear to get your way through the part that is giving you trouble? If not, you need skills and gear to build insitu anchors. By the way, a best practice is that an "anchor" in this case is not just one bolt. And many other important details of how to do the below are left out. Hopefully the main point here is that even on "single-pitch" one can be faced with engaging relatively complex contingencies ...

One could build an anchor, attach, and bring up one's partner and let him/her finish the route ... sort of making a single-pitch route into a multi-pitch route.

The other option of going down is more complicated assuming you can't down climb while cleaning the protection (i.e., reversing the lead). Plus, hopefully, you and your partner are already aware of the real danger here of your partner lowering you off the end of the rope (i.e., rope end passes through belay device and leader free falls to deck).

Anyway, since one is at 80% of the rope, one likely can't be lowered to a point less than half a rope length up from the belayer. So going down will be a repeated process of lowering as much as practical to where you can build and attach to an anchor, pulling the rope from protection points above, and being lowered or rapping to next anchoring spot or eventually to the deck.

And you are going to leave gear behind (at least temporarily).

Bill L

P.S. There are other possibilities as well. Like, if other competent folks are around, maybe they could drop a fixed line from above allowing you to rap on it and clean your gear in the process.

(This post was edited by billl7 on Jun 15, 2013, 8:37 AM)

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Post edited by billl7 () on Jun 15, 2013, 8:37 AM

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