Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [rgold] EDK Anchor: Edit Log




chris


Jun 23, 2013, 6:05 PM

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Registered: Feb 4, 2003
Posts: 94

Re: [rgold] EDK Anchor
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Interesting - the paper you cite, rgold, was written by a AMGA certified guide and published in an AMGA quarterly newsletter.

Just to be clear, I don't advocate that the flat overhand was applicable in all conditions. I would also caution about using a single strand-ed cordellette for any anchor. The breaking strength of 6mm cord is 2000 lbs, or 9 kn. 7mm breaking strength is 2800 lbs, or 13 kn. While these are adequate for static loads like rappelling, no one would consider that adequate for a shock load.

My imagination of the OP scenario looked like this: I want to use this 20' tall tree as my anchor, so I untie my cordellette, do two wraps around the tree, retie the cord, and then tie a master point. Voila.

Another study on the subject is at Black Diamond. http://blackdiamondequipment.com/...l?q=qc%20lab%20knots


(This post was edited by chris on Jun 23, 2013, 6:33 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by chris () on Jun 23, 2013, 6:25 PM
Post edited by chris () on Jun 23, 2013, 6:30 PM
Post edited by chris () on Jun 23, 2013, 6:33 PM


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