Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [zekeo] Saving gear for the anchor: Edit Log


Jun 24, 2013, 12:21 PM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [zekeo] Saving gear for the anchor
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1. Get all the beta you can on the gear at the anchors ... If you arent going for a "pure" onsight

2. Try not to use up all your gear in a particular size ... For example dont use all yr #1s if you can get something else that fits just as well unless theres no alternative

3. Get REALLY good with nut placements, especially off stances ... Theyre lighter and you can carry more of em ... Many cams can be places passively in constricting placments, so cams are generally more flexible, save those for when theres no choice/pumpy placements/anchors ... Just be aware of potential zippers and act accordingly

4. Run it out ... Thats yr call ... But most long multis youll have to run it out on easier ground ... Just be aware that you can fall anywhere

5. Tricams ... They are light and useful for anchors if you decide to use em ... It also pays to learn how to use knots in a crack, im not saying that you should use em all the time, but test em out for thise times when you have nothing else but slings/cord/rope

6. Learn how to top belay off a good stance from yr harness ... Chances are that if you lack gear yr anchor may not be as strong a you like ... Belaying directly reduces the force on the anchors ... Not something you do every pitch, but essential to know

7. Learn how to use the rope for anchors ... Everyone should know how for emergencies

8 . Make a non-extendible anchor .... A potentially weaker anchor shouldnt have extension possibilties

And finally scream at yr partner "DONT FALL OR YR GUNNA DIIIEEE!!!"

(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jun 24, 2013, 12:22 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jun 24, 2013, 12:22 PM

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