Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [Syd] What does a climbing helmet actually protect you from?: Edit Log




bearbreeder


Jul 5, 2013, 11:59 AM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
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Re: [Syd] What does a climbing helmet actually protect you from?
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Syd wrote:

As Jim says, there are other ways to protect yourself. In an area such as you describe, if you are climbing single pitch routes, it would make a lot of sense to use an indirect belay, with a ground anchor some distance form the base of the route, safe from rock fall. A direct belay would increase the load on the belayer in a fall. Most commonly, belayers think that standing underneath the climber is a good thing to do, often with claims of dynamic belaying to help the climber in falls. Dynamic belaying is a myth IMHO. Testing here http://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/Simulation_of_Climbing_and_Rescue_Belays.pdf shows: "Only a small amount of belayer lifting is helpful (~20 cm). More lifting increases fall distance and does not decrease peak force. " Importantly, this is a passive movement rather than an active dynamic belay in response to a fall. It is impossible to time a dynamic belay sufficiently accurately, and to jump sufficiently high (rather than being pulled upwards), to have any useful effect. For this reason it makes sense, to belay away from the base of the cliff when possible.

how many whippers do you take ...

anyone who climbs on lead at their limit, and whips 5-10+ times per session wont think dynamic belaying is a myth ...

and NO you dont want to belay away from the base of the wall on many instances ... if you belayed climbers who constantly whipped on lead or did so yourself you would know this ...

belay away from the wall down low can mean you can get pulled in and slammed if your climber falls at the start of the route, and can cause a decked climber ... especially if you are a lighter belayer

it can also pop gear out on trad leads

go out and take whippers ... if you dont know or because of some "RC" expertise refuse to give me a dynamic belay where appropriate ... youll break someones ankle

do you whip over and over again on whippers like these, if you didnt youd screw him up ... and yes ive seen people get hurt on this exact climb because their belayer didnt give em a dynamic belay



Tongue


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jul 5, 2013, 12:01 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jul 5, 2013, 12:01 PM


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