Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [jon789] Finger Pully Injuries, Expected or Unexpected?: Edit Log




milesenoell


Jul 10, 2013, 8:18 AM

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Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156

Re: [jon789] Finger Pully Injuries, Expected or Unexpected?
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To echo Kartessa, the warning (at least in my case) is the realization that you are pulling too hard too early. How hard is too hard and how early is too early? You find out when the damage is done.

For me is was when I went from climbing lots of cracks with solid jams to face climbing with lots of sit starts on small holds. I'd never had any issues in the first few years of climbing and then in a period of about three months I jacked up my middle finger on my right hand and it has never again recovered the full range of motion as I close my hand. More than seven years of being nice to it has returned the strength (that came back pretty fast), but not the flexibility.

For what it's worth, I never "popped" the pulley. It just got progressively stiffer and more painful and I never backed off until it became so bad I couldn't use it effectively.

Be nice to your hands. They have to do a lot more than climb.


(This post was edited by milesenoell on Jul 10, 2013, 8:22 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by milesenoell () on Jul 10, 2013, 8:22 AM


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