Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [jon789] Finger Pully Injuries, Expected or Unexpected?: Edit Log




onceahardman


Jul 10, 2013, 1:50 PM

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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2473

Re: [jon789] Finger Pully Injuries, Expected or Unexpected?
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Usually it's sudden.

Also usually, it is while crimping. Learn to trust and use the open grip.

IMPORTANT EDIT:
This looks really interesting. I have never seen an engineering-type discussion of the biomechanics of crimping vs open grip (here called "slope grip") before.

It looks like a power point presentation for an engineering course, start around page 23. It's long, but well done:

https://engineering.purdue.edu/...ies_and_problems.pdf

Look on page 33, at the difference in force at the A2 pulley, crimp vs slope grip! WOW! 3.26 vs 400.1 N !!!!


(This post was edited by onceahardman on Jul 10, 2013, 2:12 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by onceahardman () on Jul 10, 2013, 2:01 PM
Post edited by onceahardman () on Jul 10, 2013, 2:12 PM


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