Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [dead_horse_flats] $40 bet - two non-locking biner anchor failure.: Edit Log


Aug 2, 2013, 7:41 AM

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Registered: Jul 4, 2012
Posts: 43

Re: [dead_horse_flats] $40 bet - two non-locking biner anchor failure.
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just checking late on this thread. not sure why it's so emotional.

I understand cracklovers set of circumstances. strange things could happen to a pair of biners if they are protruding over an edge like that.

but practically - that type of set-up is a safety violation. a TR should NEVER be set up so the biners just poke over the top of the rock. the biners should always hang loose and free - beyond the edge.

i'll leave it to people to debate the in's and out's of the argument. cracklover's scenario simply reinforces that the age-old safety standards are true - if you don't use bad set-ups with your hardware - you don't get bad results.

BTW - I always used oval biners for TR's, and generally preferred locking biners anyway. if I used the oval biners, I usually set it up as 3 biners (not two), with the middle opposed to the two outer ones. the reason for choosing oval biners is that D-biners can do slightly odd things, just like cracklover showed - they are a bit more prone to working their way inside of each other.


(This post was edited by distantThunder on Aug 2, 2013, 7:42 AM)

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Post edited by distantThunder () on Aug 2, 2013, 7:42 AM

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