Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [stoopid_face] Cams working in limestone happy stories?: Edit Log




ecade


Aug 22, 2013, 6:33 AM

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Registered: Jun 23, 2011
Posts: 132

Re: [stoopid_face] Cams working in limestone happy stories?
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I live in Ontario, we have limestone, having climbed in the rockies a little, I think our limestone might be better, who'd have thought.

We have route called Nutcracker, 5.8 great hand jams nice line. A buddy who is a very strong and experienced trad climber having onsighted it and repeated it many times decided he was going to take some falls on his pro. He was trying to get me to be more confident in our rock. He purposefully fell 3 times on lead on 2 different cams. Both held. On both falls he was about 5'-6' above his piece (his feet were either at or just above/below the piece)

Another time on a route called Tits Up at Mt Nemo, I took on a cam, I sussed out the moves, climbed up, got spooked for the 1 committing move, down climbed back and took, this ensued 4 -5 times. on the last time, I noticed the cam lobes coming out, luckily, I grabbed a monster jug before the lobes fully cam out, I then plugged in 2 nuts and cam equalized with a nylon sling and lowered back to the ground. In this instance, I should have extended the cam to have prevented wrong directional pull (upward from repeated up and down climbing). My buddy then rocked the route and I seconded it, amazing what being calm does because that move that seemed tough was really at the grade and that grade is well below what I can sport climb (the move wasn't really much a trad/crack move, it was more of a sport style move then required minimal crack skills so i'd not chalk it up entirely to my poorer crack skills)

I guess, C'est la vie... goes to show you never can tell.


(This post was edited by ecade on Aug 22, 2013, 6:38 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ecade () on Aug 22, 2013, 6:38 AM


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