Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [shockabuku] Need help picking some shoes: Edit Log


Aug 23, 2013, 10:53 AM

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Registered: Oct 25, 2010
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Re: [shockabuku] Need help picking some shoes
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Add Cobras and Katanas to the list (if you are set on Sportivas).

Try them all out, as they will fit and perform differently (in some cases significantly so):

-If you lean more towards sport rather than bouldering, I'd go for the Miuras, Katanas, or Cobras, as they are better as all around shoes - they won't be torturous on slabby routes or in cracks and will still perform well on steep routes and problems.

-The Pythons and especially Solutions are much more specialized (and in many ways limited) to steep climbing. As such, they lend themselves better to bouldering or as 'project shoes' for steep routes, and many climbers complain about pain or poor performance on slabs or in foot jams. Make sure the heels fit snugly, without *any* slippage or wiggle room.

-Keep in mind that making an expensive shoe, such as the Solutions, your primary gym pair is not the most thrifty of ideas. If you climb frequently, replacing a $110 dollar pair of shoes every few months is a bit more reasonable than doing so with one that costs over $170.

-Resist the urge to buy a shoe based on its 'sex appeal' and focus on FIT and CONTEXT. So many folks go for shoes based 'pro' features such as extreme downturns and end up purchasing shoes that neither fit properly or are ill-suited to their actual needs. Seeing climbers flailing up vertical 5.10s in sloppy-fitting Solutions is a common sight, and a waste of an expensive shoe.
A properly fitting and appropriately featured shoe, no matter how 'novice' an image the brand/model projects, is worlds better.

Long story short:

Try them all on, in addition to other makes and models.
Buy according to your actual needs and fit above all else.
Buy from a location with a decent return policy to really get a feel for if the shoe is truly what you want or need.

(This post was edited by brinosaur on Aug 23, 2013, 10:54 AM)

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Post edited by brinosaur () on Aug 23, 2013, 10:54 AM

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