Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [rocknice2] Use 2 Ropes as Twin and Double in Same Pitch: Edit Log




USnavy


Sep 4, 2013, 1:05 AM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2660

Re: [rocknice2] Use 2 Ropes as Twin and Double in Same Pitch
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rocknice2 wrote:
USnavy wrote:
You can start out using them as twins and then separate to halves, but do not join them back to twins once separated unless you use two different slings and biners. The problems is that once you separate the ropes, the amount of rope out for each strand and the amount of drag for each strand is different. Accordingly, when you fall the ropes can move at different speeds, which if allowed to contact each other could result in rope damage.

I'll play devil advocate.
There IS different rope drag for each rope but how much is the question. If able to split and combine at will the rope drag will be significantly reduced. How much is too much if it's even applicable?
Then the ropes are BOTH passing through the biner, so it's not like one is stationary and the other passing over a single point at high speed. The weighted rope will most likely go to the bottom of the biner.

It's all conjecture though. I have believed as you for many years but with the new 7.8mm ropes out I'm looking deeper into it and finding surprisingly little in terms of actual data.
This is a difficult question because it is like asking how many falls are required before a rope truly becomes unsafe. The answer is it depends. If you went a full pitch not clipping a half at all and then clipped both ropes as a twin on the last piece, then took a 50 footer on it, I bet something bad would happen. But if you clipped the first piece as a half, then used twins for the rest of the pitch and fell at the end of the pitch, I strongly doubt anything would happen.

It's really a variable question with a variable answer. But it is kind of a pointless question because who the hell climbs a pitch using twins, then halves, then twins, then halves and on and on? Once you switch out to halves there normally isint much of a need to use the twin method, except maybe while climbing over a ledge, in which case just use two separate draws and clip the rope as a twin. Problem (mostly) solved.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 4, 2013, 1:06 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Sep 4, 2013, 1:06 AM


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