Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [bearbreeder] Use 2 Ropes as Twin and Double in Same Pitch: Edit Log


Sep 4, 2013, 1:16 AM

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Re: [bearbreeder] Use 2 Ropes as Twin and Double in Same Pitch
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bearbreeder wrote:
USnavy wrote:
The guy that replied is likely just some grunt from marketing. If you spoke to the senior R&D engineer for Mammut I bet he would tell you something different. Send an e-mail to both Bluewater and Sterling, ask to speak to an engineer, then ask the question again. I bet you will get a different answer.

product managers are required to know all the ins and outs of their products and the uses ... its not simply a marketing position

you can see the depth of their USA product manager here ... i bet he knows more than you on ropes

id rather listen to MAMMUT directly than some RCer like you

not to mention the climbers that climb hard and fall more on doubles/twins than you ever will

someone DID email PMI and bluewater ... you can see the response they got

remember that unlike RCers saying whatever they want, "safe" usage directions from a manufacturer such as mammut carries LIABILITY

Sure. I mean, its not like I work in the industry and climb with these said marketing guys and engineers or anything. As far as climbing hard, I have climbed grade V 5.12+ and multiple lines on El Cap--that's plenty hard enough. And only a Sharma stocker would actually think that climbing 5.14 gives you an engineering-level understanding of climbing gear. I know because I have climbed with a large sum of them. Some of them dont really know jack outside of how to dyno to a mono.

I am not saying that Mammut's staff are unqualifed. I am sure they all know a ton about climbing. But I have also spoken to Petzl employees that dont know their own Dragonfly rope is not UIAA certified as a twin, and Black Diamond employees that do not know that their pins are made out of chrome molybdenum steel, and the list goes on and on. Hell, the CEO of Sterling ropes isint even a rock climber (not that she needs to be, but one would assume)! So my point is not everyone knows everything about every subject and if a bunch of people are saying something other than what you think the correct answer is, you would be well off to further inquire using many references and sources instead of blindly believing the reference that best supports your opinion is gold.

Look, of course there have been climbers who have rejoined their halves and fallen on them without issue. Safety is a sliding scale. "Safe or not" is a question of your personal risk assumption. I am absolutely positive, no matter how many marketing guys say otherwise, that I could create a system in which you could get enough rope speed difference between the two ropes to cause a problem. I have blazed the sheath of a rope solely from the friction of a carabiner while taking a big space whipper. So if the carabiner alone can damage a sheath from friction, then two ropes in that carabiner, each moving at a different speed, certainly can cause problems under some conditions. Few people realize just how sensitive nylon is to heat (350F causes major strength loss) and how fast a rope can heat up under heavy friction while rubbing against other nylon components. I have seen a climber melt through the sheath of his rope, exposing the core, on a small lead fall because his tag line got caught in the lead line and rubbed against it during the fall. Crap happens.

(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 4, 2013, 1:34 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Sep 4, 2013, 1:17 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Sep 4, 2013, 1:18 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Sep 4, 2013, 1:29 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Sep 4, 2013, 1:30 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Sep 4, 2013, 1:30 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Sep 4, 2013, 1:33 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Sep 4, 2013, 1:34 AM

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