Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [sam5093003] Young climber help: Edit Log




DouglasHunter


Sep 17, 2013, 3:15 PM

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Registered: Oct 1, 2010
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Re: [sam5093003] Young climber help
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sam5093003 wrote:
Hello! I am pretty new to rock climbing, just under a years worth of climbing. I have a very important question. Am i training too hard? I just turned fourteen in july so i dont want to mess anything up for me. I typically climb three hour sessions four times a week, and i hit v7s indoor and v6s outdoors. I hangboard 4 times a week for thirty minutes, and my indoor seshes include system board. I want to climb in the long term, so is there anything i should slow down or stop doing in order to save my tendons? thanks!

The impact of hard training on young rock climbers is not well understood yet. Thomas Hochholzer is the one person who has done the most research in this area and he is quick to point out that bone structures continue to change until about 18 years of age, up to that point it's his assertion that the bones are not well enough developed to handle the stress of hard training. The second thing he asserts is that "There is really no place for the campus board, the double dyno or the use of additional weights in anyone under the age of 18 - 20 years old." This is based on a study he did of the German Junior National Team in which injuries such as stress fractures of the fingers, finger swelling, shoulder problems, pulley injuries, joint capsule injuries, and several others were found in young climbers. 80% of the reported injuries occurred while doing supplemental training, not while climbing. Hochholzer also speculates about the long term possibilities of arthritis.

My advice would be to stay off the finger board and the system wall. If you want to improve you should begin by doing a current performance evaluation in which you document how many problems at each grade you have done in the past year, and how many tries they each took you. For example if your V7 was a several day project you will want examine how broad of a base you have at the V5 level. You also want to figuer what your consisten flash level is. As always you want to focus on the quality of your movement first. And use a wide variety of hold types in your climbing, in general open handed holds put less stress on the fingers than do crimper and pockets.

(Source: One Move Too Many by Hochholzer and Schoeffl. Several studies by Hochholzer can be found on Pubmed.)


(This post was edited by DouglasHunter on Sep 17, 2013, 3:17 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by DouglasHunter () on Sep 17, 2013, 3:17 PM


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