Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [lena_chita] I Fell behind over the summer?: Edit Log


Sep 26, 2013, 12:19 PM

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Registered: Sep 22, 2010
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Re: [lena_chita] I Fell behind over the summer?
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lena_chita wrote:

The question was, he used to boulder V5 and rope-climb 5.10, but now struggles with V4 and 5.9s. And both of those have more to do with the 2.5 months break than anything else.

The fact that he boulders harder than he is climbing on the rope could be the result of not spending enough time on routes. A young kid going to the gym, even 2-3times a week, would probably need an adult to belay. Even the most-lenient gyms that have gri-gri-s bolted to the floors, and allow young kids to belay, set the limit at 12 or 13yo. It is much easier to have team kids bouldering with one-two coaches, than to have them rope up with one-two coaches and get adequate time on the ropes, even when they do rope up.

You're right, at that age OP will find it more difficult to get wall time. Also, you're right that the question pertains to how OP can overcome the grade creep over the summer.

More succinctly: 'How can OP improve his/her best TR route grade?'

I completely agree with you that endurance is important. It certainly never hurts to do laps on easier routes. This, however, will produce only a small improvement in climbing ability (ceteris paribus). Enough to climb easier 5.10's, at best.

At most of the gyms I've been to, the 5.9's that are overhanging have incredibly bomber holds and can be climbed by anyone with a strong core and decent endurance. But they can be climbed EFFICIENTLY only by someone that knows how to properly lock-off, cam the foot on a heel-hook, and use core tension to give more reach. Sure, OP can power through the route after some conditioning. This does address the question. However, in the long run, learning how to do the route with delicate, technical moves will allow him/her to climb much harder.

You mentioned the psychological factor earlier on. I think you're spot on– that's huge. At OP's age I'm guessing this is on top-rope. Maybe 'climb until failure' exercises will help him/her commit to the moves. At least I know that I'm guilty of half-assing moves because I'm too scared to take a huge whipper on a tiny nut. On top-rope, building the confidence to commit to every move should be MUCH easier Smile.

(This post was edited by fx101 on Sep 26, 2013, 12:23 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by fx101 () on Sep 26, 2013, 12:22 PM
Post edited by fx101 () on Sep 26, 2013, 12:23 PM

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