Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice: Re: [vicinthemac] Idiot question of the day: retrievable snow anchors.: Edit Log


Oct 11, 2013, 9:16 PM

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Registered: Oct 10, 2013
Posts: 3

Re: [vicinthemac] Idiot question of the day: retrievable snow anchors.
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Firstly, thanks to everyone for your contributions, I didn't expect so much traffic.

secondly, yes that's exactly what I was talking about for the axe retrieval system. Now obviously there's a downside in that you no longer have an axe/s to self-arrest with and also it might not be the best /most secure anchor system. I was just curious about its effectiveness, safety and practicality.

Lastly, I should do some explaining as to the situations I was intending this for:

This is for a regular descent of a climb, not a bail, not a holly sh!t I might die, not terrible weather rolling in, just plain me not wanting to down climb a 50+ degree slope after summiting. It could almost be described as laziness, as if it were a real emergency (as some have theorized or suggested), I'd leave a picket, build a dead-man or leave a sling/rock pro in a heartbeat. My life is not worth $30 of aluminum; especially when these climbs will never be described as EPIC, BADASS, LEGENDARY or SUPERHUMAN. I have no intention of dying on something some 10 year old Swiss kid would run up before breakfast.

I'm mostly climbing reasonably non-technical stuff; it's usually gullies leading to ridges or a cirque with gullies leading to ridges to the summit etc. I just find it a pain to down climb 50+ degree gullies (probably not steep enough to be couloirs, but I may be wrong); I never feel 100% secure and I'm less protected, as on the way up I place pickets or similar. Typically if I did fall/slide it would be an easy enough self-arrest or maybe even a fun glissade (is it glissading if it's unplanned and on your stomach facing uphill?) down to the cirque, but I'd rather play it safe.

I think the bollard is perfect, I'd just never seen them done in wet spring snow and didn't think it appropriate. after some more youtubing/googling plus all your input, it seems like the solution. Now I just need to practice building some bollards and determine if the time and work is worth it, or if I'm back to down climbing; as soon as thereís some snow itís off to the ski hill I go.

(This post was edited by vicinthemac on Oct 11, 2013, 9:22 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by vicinthemac () on Oct 11, 2013, 9:20 PM
Post edited by vicinthemac () on Oct 11, 2013, 9:22 PM

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