Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [AdGrenoble] How many times should I try a problem?: Edit Log


Oct 14, 2013, 1:06 PM

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Registered: Oct 30, 2007
Posts: 31

Re: [AdGrenoble] How many times should I try a problem?
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As many times as it takes to send!

More specifically, I like to build a nice pyramid of grades when I'm trying to get a new notch in the belt. For example, to get to v5, I would look at the problems I have done in the last couple of weeks and see if when written down it forms a nice pyramid, like this:

V4 V4
V3 V3 V3 V3
V2 V2 V2 V2 V2 V2

Having finished 2 v4's wouldn't really mean I'm ready to send v5, but it at least means I'm in the ball park to start projecting them.

My sessions would then start to look something like this:
-warm up with some traversing/laps on v0/v1.
-chill and stretch for a bit.
-a couple v2's and a v3
-chill and stretch for a bit.
-repeat one of the v4's I've done previously to assess how I'm feeling.
-start sampling the v5's. I'll just usually try a few moves of four or five problems just see if anything seems inspring or I'll ask around for reccomendations.
-work that problem like mad
-send, or don't send, but either way get really tired.
-long rest, try a couple of v4's
-cool down on 2's and 3's
-go home and have a beer

Even more important is knowing how to thoughtfully project a problem.
I work hard problems from the top down.
I'll break a problem into about three sections depending on length. I'll then dial the top section. THen the middle sections, and finally the bottom. As I perfect one section I then focus on linking it to the next highest section.

So, if a problem has 12 moves, that is 3 four move sections. I'll dial the top four. Then dial the middle fore. Then link the two together. Then dial the bottom four. Then send.

Realistically, the sending usually comes on a later session, since figuring out all of the moves is usually pretty energy sapping when at your limit and sometimes it takes one whole session just to figure out a single section of something truly at your limit

Hope this is of some benefit.

(This post was edited by pedro_sandchez on Oct 14, 2013, 1:37 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by pedro_sandchez () on Oct 14, 2013, 1:37 PM

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