Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [majid_sabet] Death on El Cap: Edit Log


Oct 21, 2013, 4:12 AM

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Re: [majid_sabet] Death on El Cap
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majid_sabet wrote:
jumpingrock wrote:
Quick question based on lack of knowledge:

Is it common at all to use double ropes on big walls in yosemite or is the hassle of the extra rope not worth the additional safety?

Double rope is very common or used to be common among non-north American climbers mainly in Europe and other parts of the world and still common in ice climbing community but I have not seen many climbers in Yosemite on 2x rope system . These days more climbers are moving toward lighter single long rope with dia less than 10mm. I personally rather climb on a 10.5 or even 11mm rope on questionable long pitch than worrying about extra few pound. Not that makes much of difference when 200 ponder is coming your way but still size matters.
Again Majid is talking about a topic he knows nothing about. Virtually no one uses twin or half ropes on an aid climb. I have spent the better part of a year in Yosemite and I have ever even heard someone mention it let alone do it. Why? Because on a bigwall the second jugs the line. He doesent climb the pitch directly. It is not safe to use mechanical ascenders on double ropes and prusiking your way up El Cap is retarded at best. Accordingly, a single 10 or 11mm rope is the only real choice for real aid climbing.

(This post was edited by USnavy on Oct 21, 2013, 4:13 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 21, 2013, 4:13 AM

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