Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [PNew] Northeastern Climber's Ethics: Edit Log




jacques


Oct 26, 2013, 10:27 AM

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Registered: May 13, 2008
Posts: 272

Re: [PNew] Northeastern Climber's Ethics
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PNew wrote:
how fixed protection impacts user experience in the northeast.

As a first study, it is interesting. Statistic is good, but easy to manipulate. One of your assumption is that there is a difference between trad and sport...and bolt is that difference. This assumption is not really true. There is an evolution on the kind of protection (clean: rock with a sling, stopper, hex, tricam, cam; not clean: piton, bolt). In fact the difference is that the older climber, as they have to drive the piton inside the rock, try to place as less pro as they can to be safe...and the gym climber who have a pro at each five or six feet and have the impression that they are not in top rope, even if they fall the same distance than in top rope.

After a while, you will understand that a third group, some very great climber, like to climb many move of high intensity in a short laps of time. They are interested by the move and not by the route (personal opinion). Whatever is the protection, the goal is to go to the top...and to go to an other problem. Bolt or pro have no interest for them, but competition. They like that people around qualify them as a good climber (personal opinion...I am wrong on this one...don't know to how far).

So, as you don't define what his the user experience...it is hard to make a link between the protection and the climber. Further more, I don't like to have a bolt in a 5.7 run out in a 5.9 route. I think that if you can't climb a run out in 5.7...maybe you are not qualify to climb a 5.9. An other situation is when the crux is a 5.8 run out and the route is grade 5.10. Using a bolt diminish the grade to 5.8. It is unpleasant. Finally, a real five ten run out, when someone is close to his limit and the danger of a fall with good technique is dangerous is insane.

Maybe the answer you got was not as good as you which. I think that your perception of climbing will be greater in the future. I remember that I did a survey like that with animal in a veterinary hospital. keep go on


(This post was edited by jacques on Oct 26, 2013, 9:20 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jacques () on Oct 26, 2013, 9:20 PM


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