Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [mitchellclimb] Crimping evidence: Edit Log




onceahardman


Oct 30, 2013, 2:42 PM

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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2473

Re: [mitchellclimb] Crimping evidence
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mitchellclimb wrote:
It is "common" knowledge that you should use the crimping technique moderately as it it said to be over-strenous for the pulleys. But does the have any scientific data to be backed up? Everything I can read on the internet seems to refer back to one article from 2000 - which I cannot seem to locate.

Doea any one know of any research done into this? Or should we in fact be teaching beginners to crimp from day 1?


I found this quite convincing, but it's a bit of a grind to get through. You have to start at around page 23, as the first set of slides is irrelevant to the subject, but from page 23 on, it's all meat.

I think these are lecture/recent research notes from Purdue University engineering school.

https://engineering.purdue.edu/...ies_and_problems.pdf

EDIT: that page doesn't want to load right. Let me try again:

https://engineering.purdue.edu/...ies_and_problems.pdf


(This post was edited by onceahardman on Oct 30, 2013, 2:46 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by onceahardman () on Oct 30, 2013, 2:46 PM


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