Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [mitchellclimb] Crimping evidence: Edit Log




onceahardman


Nov 1, 2013, 2:16 PM

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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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Re: [mitchellclimb] Crimping evidence
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mitchellclimb wrote:
I have not gone into detail with the mechanical calculations in the referred presentation. BUT is it not a huge flaw that the thumb is not in the calculation at all!! It takes a huge load from the other fingers, compared to an open hold.

And I have still to see any realtime data that shows crimping results in finger damage.

So I'm still interested if anyone can empirycally backup the claim that crimping is bad.

For the sack of argument, it could perhaps save alot of injuries - I see pro-climbers using the technique for nearly all their moves!

Frankly, when you ask for "realtime data", you are basically asking to have a bunch of climbers offer to sacrifice their pulleys by testing them to failure by loading them to failure in situ. So I think you are unlikely to accomplish that. There are some studies which have given evidence that pulley injuries happen almost entirely during crimps, and that A2 pulley injuries are very rare outside of the climbing community. I'll try to dig around.

In the meantime, we have theory. The A2 pulley is subjected to a large outward vector during crimping, and not while using the open grip. The mechanics of this are not overly complicated. I will respond a little more directly to Curt.


(This post was edited by onceahardman on Nov 1, 2013, 2:17 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by onceahardman () on Nov 1, 2013, 2:17 PM


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