I have not gone into detail with the mechanical calculations in the referred presentation. BUT is it not a huge flaw that the thumb is not in the calculation at all!! It takes a huge load from the other fingers, compared to an open hold.
And I have still to see any realtime data that shows crimping results in finger damage.
So I'm still interested if anyone can empirycally backup the claim that crimping is bad.
For the sack of argument, it could perhaps save alot of injuries - I see pro-climbers using the technique for nearly all their moves!