Nov 8, 2013, 11:05 AM
Registered: Apr 14, 2004
obviously you will get better in crimping if you train for it by crimping. The question is: how long your fingers stay healthy.
Excerpt from metholius training program:
How to Grasp the Grips: You want to use an open-handed grip as often as possible. Most climbers are weaker open-handed than crimped, so you may find this difficult at first, but you'll get used to it. Training open-handed will increase your crimp strength (but not vice-versa), and it is essential for holding pockets, slopers, and certain edges, as well as making moves at maximum stretch and catching dynos. Most importantly, however, using an open hand lowers the potential for injury. As you adapt to training, you can incorporate a little crimp training to increase your maximum edge-holding power, but keep it to a minimum.
(This post was edited by madam on Nov 8, 2013, 11:12 AM)