Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [5.samadhi] Crimping evidence: Edit Log


Nov 10, 2013, 2:08 PM

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Re: [5.samadhi] Crimping evidence
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5.samadhi wrote:
curt wrote:
onceahardman wrote:
mitchellclimb wrote:
It is "common" knowledge that you should use the crimping technique moderately as it it said to be over-strenous for the pulleys. But does the have any scientific data to be backed up? Everything I can read on the internet seems to refer back to one article from 2000 - which I cannot seem to locate.

Doea any one know of any research done into this? Or should we in fact be teaching beginners to crimp from day 1?

I found this quite convincing, but it's a bit of a grind to get through. You have to start at around page 23, as the first set of slides is irrelevant to the subject, but from page 23 on, it's all meat.

I think these are lecture/recent research notes from Purdue University engineering school.

EDIT: that page doesn't want to load right. Let me try again:

The main problem I have with the Purdue article cited here is that the crimp that is modeled on p.28, called:

"Free Body Diagram: Crimp Grip Position"

doesn't show the hand in a position I would consider to be a "real" crimp. The cross sectional drawing shows the hand in what is still basically an open hand position. In a real crimp, the second knuckle is elevated to almost directly above the fingertip and thus much of the downward force is supported by the finger bones themselves--and not the connective tissues.

I personally find crimping to be far less damaging to my fingers than using open hand grips and the only times I have sustained pulley injuries they have resulted from open hand grips, usually when isolating one or two fingers in pockets.

Bingo. /thread

this man knows. Pockets tweak people. Crimping is not so bad comparatively.

Lookie here:

I don't deny that people injure their fingers climbing pockets. My point is narrower. I think, based on the physics, and the peer-reviewed literature and my personal experience, that pulley injuries usually occur in climbers as a result of crimping.

What happens in pockets is a red herring in this narrow discussion.

My personal opinion is that pocket injuries are generally tendon and/or ligament, not pulley injuries.

If no proper diagnosis is made, no real conclusion can be drawn..

(This post was edited by onceahardman on Nov 10, 2013, 2:15 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by onceahardman () on Nov 10, 2013, 2:12 PM
Post edited by onceahardman () on Nov 10, 2013, 2:13 PM
Post edited by onceahardman () on Nov 10, 2013, 2:15 PM

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