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Carrying an extra belay/rappel device
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billcoe_


Nov 6, 2012, 9:04 AM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Re: [laurams01] Carrying an extra belay/rappel device [In reply to]
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Just had to rap with a Munter on Friday. Forgot my ATC, had a HMS-Pearbiner with me. The ropes got twisted but just untwisted them when I got down to each succeeding stance. I rapped first and my partner, who remembered his device, went next to make sure they were fully untwisted.


masjojon


Nov 6, 2012, 9:07 AM
Post #27 of 35 (670 views)
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Registered: May 19, 2012
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Re: [billcoe_] Carrying an extra belay/rappel device [In reply to]
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I agree with billcoe_
If you find yourself totally naked, no carabiners for the said carabiner brake rappell and without even a harness, you can still do a dulfersitz rappell, but plan on skin grafts to replace the burned skin



EdBustamante


Nov 6, 2012, 10:09 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] Carrying an extra belay/rappel device [In reply to]
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I carry my old stich plate as a back up light and small and you can always use a munter hitch.
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lena_chita
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Nov 6, 2012, 11:29 AM
Post #29 of 35 (616 views)
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Re: [billcoe_] Carrying an extra belay/rappel device [In reply to]
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Old thread resurrection, but I was just thinking about this since i saw the other day a guy who had two ATCs, each on a locking biner, AND 3 other locking 'biners on his harness. He was belaying with the 3rd belay device at the time...

Now, there's a prepared fellow!

Oh, and it was at the gym, of course! With these 25 ft gym toprope climbs, you never know when you need an extra locker or 3 while at the top...


majid_sabet


Nov 6, 2012, 11:56 AM
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Re: [rush] Carrying an extra belay/rappel device [In reply to]
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1-find the nearest bolt hanger
2-remove the hanger
3-run a loop with rope in to bolt hanger hole and clip the loop with a biner to your harness
4-you just got yourself an emergency ATC system
5-rap and install hanger on the next visit


redlude97


Nov 6, 2012, 11:58 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Carrying an extra belay/rappel device [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
1-find the nearest bolt hanger
2-remove the hanger
3-run a loop with rope in to bolt hanger hole and clip the loop with a biner to your harness
4-you just got yourself an emergency ATC system
5-rap and install hanger on the next visit
Perfect solution! Carry a wrench instead of an extra belay device


amarius


Nov 6, 2012, 12:14 PM
Post #32 of 35 (591 views)
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Registered: Feb 23, 2012
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Re: [lena_chita] Carrying an extra belay/rappel device [In reply to]
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ROFL
So, you are going to a gym to climb, typically have 1 belay device, for your own usage. Just being a nice person that you are, your brought extra for someone else, or maybe those fat stiff and used up gym ropes just don't work that great with what you prefer to use.
So, that is explanation for two.

3rd one is tough, but what if he/she and the partner are climbing the same rope, and don't bother with switching belay devices? - the person who just finished belaying did not remove his biner/belay device, and the poor chap who is belaying now, is stuck with three - one for belaying, and two more for decoration?

Well, that sounded quite plausible?


lena_chita
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Nov 6, 2012, 12:24 PM
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Re: [amarius] Carrying an extra belay/rappel device [In reply to]
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amarius wrote:
ROFL
So, you are going to a gym to climb, typically have 1 belay device, for your own usage. Just being a nice person that you are, your brought extra for someone else, or maybe those fat stiff and used up gym ropes just don't work that great with what you prefer to use.
So, that is explanation for two.

3rd one is tough, but what if he/she and the partner are climbing the same rope, and don't bother with switching belay devices? - the person who just finished belaying did not remove his biner/belay device, and the poor chap who is belaying now, is stuck with three - one for belaying, and two more for decoration?

Well, that sounded quite plausible?

You forgot the explanation for three OTHER locking 'biners, in addition to the ATCs and their respective 'biners.

But very good, otherwise,


ecade


Nov 6, 2012, 1:20 PM
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Re: [rush] Carrying an extra belay/rappel device [In reply to]
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Learn (Learn=know how to tie and understand the application...i.e. the how and the why) the munter hitch and learn to use a prussik or other back up friction hitch and you needn't worry about an extra belay device.


dagibbs


Nov 6, 2012, 1:41 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2007
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Re: [lena_chita] Carrying an extra belay/rappel device [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
You forgot the explanation for three OTHER locking 'biners, in addition to the ATCs and their respective 'biners.

"Training Weight."

That's what I always say at the crag when I'm top-roping up something with half a rack of gear on my harness.

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