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climbingbetty22
Aug 5, 2005, 7:04 PM
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Happie- If by "the other" place you mean the TG, I know of some folks who camped there last weekend. Should be OK.
Congrats on the climbingmobile. I'm hoping to acquire one sometime soon as well. Where are you going to park that thing in Manhattan?
Oh yeah, I had a giggle the othe weekend when I saw your sign for a dog sitter on the kiosk at the Uberfall. Have you found anyone yet?
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happiegrrrl
Aug 9, 2005, 12:46 PM
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I don't know what is "the barn" or "TG" - so if you guys can advise, please do. By thread if the places are "legal" or PM if they are more private.....
I picked up "Junior" (this is the name I have picked for the van, because he's more petite than "the big red behemoth" which I think is what Curt calls his Vanagon) on Sunday, and though I am having some anxiety issues about the $$ it will cost to feed and house the kid, I am very excited to have adopted him!
Today we are going to start working on building the platform/storage space. I will be having pictures.....
I am still working on finding care for Teddy - procrastination is a vice I fall prey to regularly, unfortunately.
We will be coming up to the Gunks on Thursday afternoon, if things go as planned. Staying til either Tuesday night or Wednesday morning.
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cracklover
Aug 15, 2005, 2:49 PM
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Been quiet around here lately. To wake y'all up out of your stupors, hope you like a TR I just finished. It's of a night ascent of Shockley's Ceiling at the Gunks a few weeks back. It's kind of long, but there are photos to break it up a little. Here it is.
GO
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taino
Aug 15, 2005, 3:42 PM
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Considering that it's been 1) raining heavily, or 2) so bloody humid that everything is grease (except, of course, for climbers as strong as you, Gabe), I'm not surprised that things are quiet.
Can't wait for the frikken "dog days" of summer to be over. I'd rather have climbing weather and have to carry a headlamp, than long days where I grease off everything.
T
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gunked
Aug 15, 2005, 3:49 PM
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Great job on Shockley's nude!
I find that one of the keys to climbing naked is carrying a VERY light rack.
Last fall (late Oct.) we tried doing Beginner's delight naked. It was the last good warm spell before the winter started kicking in. I Took a basic set of nuts :roll: , four tri-cams, and four cams(clipped to the rear loops!) for pro. Dave wouldn't let me wear a helmet as it would "taint the ascent". Luckily he allowed the chalk bag!
I got up to the first ledge (maybe 25 -30 feet up) and noticed that I was completely surrounded by yellow jackets. :shock: I looked up to see if climbing past them was an option. NOPE!
Every sun-lit area of the wall was completely covered in yellow jackets. Apparently, this was their last hoorah before the winter. As a result (lucky for me!) they were moving pretty slowly.
Strangely, I started feeling VERY exposed on that ledge!
Yeah...I backed off as quickly and gently as possible. There was a small tree to my left that allowed me a nice, gentle, and QUICK rappel.
Just thought I'd share with you a somewhat related story!
Yes...there are pics. No...they're not very good! Mostly ass shots!
-Jason :D
P.S. - Terrie - How's Junior treating you? Did you guys get nailed in that storm yesterday evening? We just finished the first two pitches of Directissima and Dave was leading out the overhang on the last pitch of High E when all hell broke loose. I don't remember ever seeing that much lightning in that short amount of time. Yeah...we bailed!
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cracklover
Aug 15, 2005, 3:57 PM
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In reply to: Great job on Shockley's nude!
Thanks!
In reply to: I find that one of the keys to climbing naked is carrying a VERY light rack.
I found that one of the keys to climbing naked is that after a long rappel, when you pop the rope out of your rappel device, catch that sucker before it swings down and burns the bejesus out of you!
GO
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taino
Aug 15, 2005, 4:07 PM
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Indeed, Gabe - excellent TR. You fainting flower, you. :D :twisted: :lol:
That "burning sensation" is precisely why I extend the rappel device, instead of having it on my belay loop. Once, was quite enough. :shock:
T
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gunked
Aug 15, 2005, 4:17 PM
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In reply to: I found that one of the keys to climbing naked is that after a long rappel, when you pop the rope out of your rappel device, catch that sucker before it swings down and burns the bejesus out of you!
Yeah...that too! :lol:
In reply to: That "burning sensation"
Tai, you might wanna get that checked out :wink:
-Jason :D
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gunked
Aug 15, 2005, 6:14 PM
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Okay...where do you find all these damn smileys?
S&M smileys. What more could you ask for?
-Jason :D
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lockeyaaron
Aug 15, 2005, 9:34 PM
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Ok Ladies and Gents the D&C crew is back online and back in NY. We will be back in the Gunks this weekend (the 19th). Anyone that is going to be down there we will be in our usual spot, come find us and we might have a beer for you.
CB22, heard from Dirt at all? Is he able to get out and around yet? Would there be any chance that you are going to be down there this weekend?
Wowona, you need to get off your lazy ass and get up to NY. Sorry that none of us made it out there over leave but the whole crew will be there this weekend. See you there!!!
The Rev.
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gunked
Aug 16, 2005, 7:00 PM
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Out of curiousity...
Did anybody else get nailed by that storm Sunday evening? I've never seen lightning with such frequency. At least one per second. May partner had just pulled the roof on High E when all hell broke loose. He bailed off of a nut and we rapped the High E station with great speed. Thank god the rope was soaked so we didn't damage the sheath.
On the other hand:
In retrospect (and after talking to a couple of friends in the know), we should have stripped our gear off and stashed it on one side of the ledge while we waited out the storm. This would have been preferable to rapping a wet rope and turning ourselves in to the most positively charged things in the area attached to a super conductor that was my soaking wet rope. :shock:
Live and Learn!
Anybody else have a story from that night?
-Jason :D
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shakylegs
Aug 16, 2005, 8:35 PM
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Sounds scary. Did you guys have packs (with stays removed) to sit on? I would thing the High E ledge would be the best place to wait out the storm.
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gunked
Aug 17, 2005, 2:08 AM
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It was pretty exciting!
No packs or anything. They wouldn't have been necessary. It would DEFINITELY have smarter to wait it out on the High E ledge with the gear off to one side.
-Jason :D
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happiegrrrl
Aug 17, 2005, 10:58 PM
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Junior is so fun! I am having a great time with him. The conversion to a camper took a lot longer than expected, due to NYC parking regulations and my complete lack of tools.... We were still making the thing 2 days into the trip, while we camped in the MUA......
Here are just a few pics:
Prepping for the conversion:
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-8-1000006.jpg
Only in NY, could you do woodwork on the street and have people walking past as if it were completely the norm.....
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-8-1000008.jpg
Myself, enjoying the freshly created platform. It sits low, with about 10 inches of space underneath. Some might sacrifice headroom for more storage space, but it was important to me that I feel comfortable while sleeping and hanging out. As is, I can sit up fully without any problems, and there is actually quite a bit of room for the storage......as long as I don't become some sort of gear junky...... Oh, and that's Teddy, my Jack Russel Poodle. Curt gave him a mohawk, and dyed it purple with a blackberry....
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-8-1600011.jpg
We used one of the pieces of 3/4 inch plywood that you gave me to make a little work table, too(the one that had the hinge running along the side). Just screwed some 2 by 4's onto the hinge - add rocks to stabilize/level, and - voila!
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-8-1700012.jpg
Also, notice the mesh screens - Curt was very happy with his idea.....He had bought mesh for his Vanagon's windows and had a lot left. So he went to work doing the same for Junior, and then realized that the ridge running all along the perimeter could act as a trap. We took 3mm accessory cord, ran it around the edge and through some duct tape loops on the screen, then tightened the cord and hitched it under tension. Did a similar thing on the side door, though not with the cord. As breezy as any tent could be!
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happiegrrrl
Aug 17, 2005, 11:05 PM
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As for the storm on Sunday - we got out in the nick o' time! We had just done the first pitch of Oscar and Charley linkup, and it was getting dark enough that we needed to head out, as we had Teddy with us and didn't want to leave him on the ground waiting for us. Curt wanted me to show him another climb that has historically "vexed me," but thank god I held my ground! More out of fear he'd have me lead the thing in the dark, I insisted we couldn't leave my poor pup alone while we did another pitch, and down the trail we headed.
The rain began the moment I put the key in the van's doorlock, and we felt pretty relieved to not be caught in it. As we headed back to camp - the rain gods let go with it. Wow......
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happiegrrrl
Aug 17, 2005, 11:11 PM
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Does anyone know the name/details of this line(the obvious "chimney type feature" with the blocks set inside it)? It is at Peterskill, toward the end on the east side of the cliffs. It is after the Golden Dreams area, and a little bit before the tunnel.
I spotted it last time I was out there and thought it looked like fun. Not in the guidebook, so I was even more intrigued, though it is obviously a decent climb, and so I'm sure it's been climbed.
Anyway, on our first day, we went to Peterskill and Curt made me go first thing to "see the line" I'd emailed him pictures for. He insisted I lead it(which I had said I'd wanted to do, so why I got chicken when the time came is pretty silly....but - with a lot of whining and fear, I got up clean. I was pretty damed pleased with myself, I have to admit! He joked that my lead was an onsight w/BM (bitching and moaning....).
It really is a great little climb, with lots of fun, thoughful and committing moves. I went up to the left side of the blocks and then crossed right just above the large block under the dihedral, and then up the right dihedral to top out. Originally I had thought to go up the entire right side, but we discussed strategy and I took Curt's suggestions. He also followed to the left, but crossed right under the large block instead of atop it.
The dihedral is quite fun, after a bit of a strenuous cimbing to gain that large block, and if the thing was longer, it would be a damned fine line. It's fairly sustained and even for the grade throughout, though there is an obvious crux, and some "Phew, thanks - don't mind if I do!" holds near the top.
We are guessing it goes 5.7....... anyone with some info? It would be appreciated.
This is the bottom:
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-7-1600022.jpg
This is the top:
http://img.photobucket.com/...ed2005-7-1600038.jpg
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gunked
Aug 18, 2005, 12:24 AM
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Terrie,
Thanks for the pics! I'm psyched that you're having so much fun with "Junior". The modifications look awesome. You'll have alot of fun with the van.
Congrat's on the lead! Looks like fun.
Don't let Curt bully you around too much! :roll:
Did you get the pics from Wojtec?
-Jason :D
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lockeyaaron
Aug 19, 2005, 4:17 PM
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Ok all, this is going to be your last chance to see all the guys of D&C climbing. It looks like this weekend is going to be the farewell tour for whole crew. With one married, two moving away, and who knows what those Bean brothers are doing this could be the last weekend that they get to climb together. So if you have never experienced a weekend with these guys get to the MUA in the Gunks for a time to remember (or forget depending on how much they drink). The camp fire will be raging, the beer will be cold, and the bottles will be getting passed around. If you are more interested in climbing than you are drinking, well I guess they might do a little of that too. They will leave messages on the Uber Falls message board telling anyone who cares where they are going to be.
If we dont see you this weekend, farewell!!
Doobs
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dirtineye
Aug 21, 2005, 1:16 PM
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Ah, Junior.
A nice little van with a lot of room and 4wd.
And a new sleeping platform with storage underneath, and mesh covers for all vent windows and the back hatch, with side door mesh cover in final form to follow.
Happiegrrrl has it made now-- she can just park anywhere and be self sufficient, haha!
Teddy, AKA Tedwick, the never-been-out-of-the-city NYC dog, turned out to be a natural climbing/camping/woodsy dog. Though confused at first about where to pee, he adapted quickly to bushes, got to eat grass, and found his life-long dream come true-- real dirt to make a little lie down spot for himself. Tedwick had a great time at Rock & Snow with his purple mohawk.
Happiegrrrl got two more solid leads in, buth clean, one at 5.7, one at 5.5. She's making good progress, especially for the short time she's been climbing and limited access to the cliffs (nowq remedied by Junior!).
Now if the dog just had a climbing harness...
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dirtineye
Aug 21, 2005, 1:22 PM
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BTW, Happiegrrrl's PC is dead, stupid Microsoft, so until she can re-install or recover, she's having to log in from coffee shops and such.
There are a lot of great pics of the van platform building I'm sure some of you would be interested in.
This whole thing was done with a japanese hand saw, a 1/2 inch sheet of ply wood, some 2x4's (could have been smaller but that's what they gave us), a 1.5 inch chisel, Elmer's carpentry glue, a speed square, an L-square, a tape measure, 4 small bar clamps, lots of screws, and a Ryobi 18 volt cordless drill.
And a little southern redneck engineering, hehe.
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gunked
Aug 21, 2005, 2:11 PM
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dirtineye,
I never put 2 and 2 together long enough to realize that you are the Curt that Terrie speaks so highly of! Good to put a face (and screenname) with the name.
Poor Terrie with the FU'd PC! :(
Yeah, nice modifications! How often are y'all(southern redneck speak :wink:) coming up this way. I'd love to check it out.
I noticed the japsaw in the photo. Time for cordless saw? I used to use a japsaw in the days of fine cabinetry. Though, I couldn't imagine what a royal pain in the ass it would be to do all of my cutting with one.
What climbs did she lead? If they're out in Peterskill, don't bother with names. As far as the dog goes, that reminds me of a trip to NRG about 10 years ago where we went to Summersville on a rainy day. We rigged harnesses on two 70lb german shepherds to be able to safely carry them down the wet ladders. They didn't look too comfy! :roll:
I'm off to get my rack together. It's a beautiful day, if not too hot and humid. The sun's been out for the last couple of hours and the rock should be dry soon. Hope your climbing today.
Nice job on the purple mohawk! :wink:
catch ya later,
Jason :D
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dirtineye
Aug 22, 2005, 12:28 AM
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fat and sassy, I think, down at the end of the nears, 5.5 but I made her pull a harder variation hehe. The 5.7 wwas that thing in the pic from peters kill.
Couldn't afford a cordless saw, and that jap saw was about as good as anything really.
Maybe I'll be up in October, but I'm sure Terrie will be out your way before then.
Might need your advice on where to attach an angle iron to the top of the platform and the car for safety.
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gunkiemike
Aug 22, 2005, 2:01 AM
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Terrie, I've climbed that line a couple times. It's a nice STEEP aggressive bit of climbing. Maybe not quite 5.7, but if that's what it felt like onsighting it, I won't dicker over numbers.
Remember, I have more heavy plywood if you need it.
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lockeyaaron
Aug 22, 2005, 3:32 AM
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Another great weekend in the gunks for the D&C crew. Rain on Sat. but we still got some climbing in. Today was beautiful but couldnt climb for as long as we wanted to due to a long drive home. We want to say thanks to Karen for coming out and having a beer and getting on the rocks with us today, hope to see you again real soon.
Bean, Sprouty, hope you guys made it home alright, we have a big concert in two weeks and I would hate for you to miss it due to you both being idiots and trying to drive and sleep at the same time.
Oh one more thing...ITS FIVE O'CLOCK AND ALL IS WELL!!!!!!!!!!
edited due to drunkeness
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