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dontfall


May 2, 2005, 5:06 PM
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In reply to:
....or a Climbing New York State thread, that could become a Sticky if it was used enough.

I was just wondering what those of you who use the MASS/PA and NOVA Climbers Threads think about starting a thread more specific to the Gunks and or/Daks?

When I realized I didn't know most of the people or places...I sort of forgot about the thread for the most part. Maybe I should have taken a better look at it to see if it is Gunks/Daks etc. related, but alas - work is tapping on my shoulder.....

.

Your wish is my command. Enjoy!!!


Partner happiegrrrl


May 2, 2005, 5:57 PM
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Well, how about that!?

Now I guess I had better hope people have interest in the thing... How about starting things off with what we climbed last day out, or are looking forward to next time?

I went up to the Gunks with 2 others on Sunday - forecast was for 20% rain up until I went to bed at 1am, and when I woke up 3 hours later, it had risen to 50%!!!! Still, we headed up, and stuck it out through the 8am drizzle, to be rewarded with sunshine only a short while later.

Yes, things were wet in places, but there were also dry lines. One of my partners led up the first pitch of Fingerlocks or Ceder Box, and then the other seconded the pitch. They both lowered off and then I got to do a mock lead on it, while the previous scond got to practice lead belaying(I have only had one lead climb so far; a 5.5 but not Gunks 5.5....).

It took me f--o--r--e--v--e--r-------

Not to place gear, but because I was afraid(yes, afraid) of committing to a move. But rather than do it knowing I had a better chance of coming off than the rain forcast for the day, I didn't go until I was ready. And, I made it through(Yeah!). Then my partner seconded and critiqued the placements for me. Luckily, nothing was welded into place and i didn't owe for any stuck gear....

So then we took our time and headed toward the Nears, looking for things to do on our way. Alas, being limited due to wet conditions, most of the things that were within all our abilities were taken, and we found ourselves camping at Disneyland while another party got on their way.

This was my third time on Disneyland, and I have to say, it is really quite the enjoyable ride. Each time I have climbed it though without weighting the rope or falling, but getting into that notch has taken *style points* off my little self-imposed scorecard every time..... Question: Are the Beached Whale Mantle and/or the Technial Knee Smear considered aid climbing? hahaha. Next time I will get that move with dignity, I promise myself that. And then I can start worrying about the day I get to lead the thing!


Partner wormly81


May 2, 2005, 6:28 PM
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I just thought this would be a good time to let everyone know how much I love climbing in NY...

Moving back to the gunks on the 21st (but I'll be stopping by sooner)

Jeff


grinspoon


May 2, 2005, 6:38 PM
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Has anybody been to Keene Valley yet this season?


jakedatc


May 2, 2005, 6:45 PM
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Congrats on your thread :)

Fingerlocks is such a good climb.. nice gear all the way up

all mantel styles are acceptable..but as you said some are more graceful than others :)


nedsurf


May 2, 2005, 9:49 PM
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Who can climb the gunks midweek. Thinking of the 9-11 this month. I might have another for climbing already but the more the merrier at the multi-use camp. I drive up from Washington DC if anyone needs a ride there from southern parts. I can alawys use a little help with gas these days, and road company is good to make the miles pass.


Partner taino


May 3, 2005, 7:45 AM
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Indeed it was a fun day; very glad we stuck it out, although it was a near thing. Good job lead-belaying - I felt very comfortable, and never once thought that you weren't attentive.

Also, good job on the mock-lead of Fingerlocks; don't worry about your taking a long time on the lead - it's good that you took your time, so that you could calm yourself down.

I must admit that you've certainly come a long way from the person who dropped me, that first time we climbed. :wink:

To keep in line with this thread...

This weekend is already full - class on Saturday, climbing with Adam and Niru on Sunday. Hope everyone gets outside, in some way.

T


mistertyler


May 3, 2005, 7:54 AM
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Can't wait to climb this weekend at the Gunks! I'm tempted to try for Friday too (to shake the rust off), but will be happy either way.

Weather looks good so far....


Partner taino


May 3, 2005, 8:11 AM
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DO NOT TEMPT ME.

I don't have enough vacation days to take off Friday, and still have three-day weekends all summer. *sob* I'm stuck in my windowless hell.

Adam - Rock & Snow, 8:30am, Saturday.

T


climbingbetty22


May 3, 2005, 8:32 AM
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Why do bus tickets to the Gunks have to be so expensive? Over a hundred dollars and an over night trip to get from Geneva, NY to New Platz....ridiculous!!! Its the bus, I thought it was supposed to be cheap!

grinspoon-- did you and backspace get up to the Daks while I was on break??


ikefromla


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Every weekend this summer... or fuck, any day. I can meet at Rock and Snow.


shakylegs


May 3, 2005, 8:51 AM
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In reply to:
Has anybody been to Keene Valley yet this season?

Was watching the tele on Friday (perhaps Thursday) when a weather alert came on warning about flooding in Keene. Apparently, all branches of Ausable were rising.
If the weather holds, I should be there this weekend.
And I can't believe no one thought of starting this thread beforehand.


architect


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Sunday was beautiful!
My partners thought we would only get some R&S shopping in but it turned out to be such a great day of climbing! Not a soul in sight when we got there (except for the crazy Russians! great guys!) warmed up on Apoplexy, Laurel went over and did the Mantels (dis and Dat) pulled on Gory thumb and wild horses (still no one), put the Strong partner on to 'On any Monday' so I could score some crucial beta! looking to get it on lead next few weeks ( saw one group) then finished up on 'Never Never land' man a good day of climbing would include only one of those climbs not all of them!

OK back to lurkin' on this here site

><`,>


barkeatervt


May 3, 2005, 11:21 AM
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Finally made it the Typhoon wall near hurricane in the dacks. What a great place to get away!! It dries out really quick as both cliffs face south. Great view of lock knob mnt, still some ice hanging from those cliffs!!


mistertyler


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DO NOT TEMPT ME.

I don't have enough vacation days to take off Friday, and still have three-day weekends all summer. *sob* I'm stuck in my windowless hell.

Adam - Rock & Snow, 8:30am, Saturday.

T

Excellent! See you then.


Partner cracklover


May 5, 2005, 12:04 PM
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Question: I'll be in upstate NY (Syracuse) this weekend, and I have Saturday free. I was planning to climb at the Gunks for the day, but it looks like it'll be raining all day, so I figured I'd check out one of the gyms. So my question:

What's the best gym near Syracuse? I've found links to Electric City and Albany Rock Gym. Any others I should look into?

Height of walls, creativity of routes, and lead-climbing is all nice, but then so is proximity to Syracuse. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Oh, and AIR also says it has cracks - are they any good?

Thanks!

GO


adamd


May 5, 2005, 12:57 PM
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The forecasts I'm seeing for the weekend look great...I'd head to Little Falls if I were you. I'd show you around but I'll be en route to the 'daks. There is some overhung bouldering that stays dry if it does rain, and the whole place dries quickly if it does rain.


jackflash


May 5, 2005, 2:09 PM
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I may be headed to Little Falls on Saturday--an hour outside of Syracuse and closer than any gym, although certainly not anything as quality as the Gunks. It looks like if it does rain, it won't be much, and Little Falls tends to dry quickly because the rock faces south and is dark black.


grinspoon


May 5, 2005, 2:36 PM
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Awww, screw you guys...stuff keeps coming up and I can't seem to get out lately. I'd like to get on that new sport route at the Dihedrals. It's like in the middle of the cliff, traverses left, then back up right. Anybody been on it yet?


capn_morgan


May 5, 2005, 2:43 PM
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howdy..I havent been posting much. Thought I would stop by and say hi. I will be in troy, ny for the summer and will be climbing every weekend. I have quite a few partners but if someone is looking for a partner let me know. I plan on climbing in daks mostly. If you live in the capital region and want some beta on local climbing ive got some cool spots up near Lake George that are worth checking out.


jackflash


May 5, 2005, 2:50 PM
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In reply to:
I'd like to get on that new sport route at the Dihedrals. It's like in the middle of the cliff, traverses left, then back up right. Anybody been on it yet?

How new? The day before the train derailed I saw a bolted line above the swampy area. I wasn't sure if it was new or if I had just always missed it while concentrating on not getting muddy. It did seem to wander a bit though.

I'm mad as hell about that train derailing. I can't find the huge pile of pennies I'd left on the track...


grinspoon


May 5, 2005, 3:56 PM
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Jackflash,
Yeah..that sounds like it. It's about time they got the wreck cleaned up, Moss Island blows.


barnes33


May 5, 2005, 5:04 PM
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hey cracklover,
the cracks at AIR are mediocre. some of them are ok, but they dont keep up on their routes there. actually the cracks are the only routes that you can follow. i dont recommend it.


climbingbetty22


May 5, 2005, 6:38 PM
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In reply to:
Awww, screw you guys...stuff keeps coming up and I can't seem to get out lately. I'd like to get on that new sport route at the Dihedrals. It's like in the middle of the cliff, traverses left, then back up right. Anybody been on it yet?

Greg-- you'd have more time for climbing if you'd stop spending so much time chasing tail!!!

Now that I'm back, I'll be happy to go climbing anytime you boys get it together. :wink:


all_that_is_rock


May 7, 2005, 11:42 AM
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hey taino, I think we met this weekend. I was climbing broken sling with ryan while you were on disneyland??????? just wondering if that was you. see you out there soon 8^)


Partner cracklover


May 8, 2005, 10:01 AM
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It was a beautiful warm day at Little Falls. Had a good time!

Started at the Dihedrals. TRed a 5.6 and a 5.8, then led Devil Won't Care, Twin Cracks, and finished w/ a TR run on Day Tripper.

Then I went over to Moss Island. Did some bouldering and stuff. A fine day.

All in all I had a fine day! I enjoyed meeting some cool folks, and got in some very good climbing. Thanks y'all for sharing!

GO


Partner wormly81


May 8, 2005, 11:10 AM
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All that is rock...

Good times around the fire on Thursday night. Looking forward to more of that this summer.

I can't wait to get back down to the gunks. I think Yann's headed down on Wednesday; ill be following on Friday night. Are you going to be around?

Jeff

ps. dont you worry, we will have plenty more homebrew :)


all_that_is_rock


May 8, 2005, 4:35 PM
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yeah I can climb anyday but thursday. stupid work :evil: and you better bring more homebrew that stuff is damn good.


climbingbetty22


May 8, 2005, 5:16 PM
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Anyone climb at the Niagara Climbing Center? What's it like? How far is it from Depew? Do they have a new web address? The www.niagaraclimbingcenter.com address isn't working...


Partner yannbuse


May 8, 2005, 7:24 PM
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all_that_is_rock,

Good stuff at the gunks last week... as for next week ill be in on wednesday afternoon (like last week) so maybe we can sneak in a couple climbs... perhaps send our pitiful 'project' and get me damn quicklink back! Ill be climbing till sunday. When you finish work thursday we should meet up.. as for thursdayknow anyone/ is anyone available?

mmmm homebrew......

yann


ikefromla


May 8, 2005, 8:11 PM
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i'm lookin to head up this wednesday.. or thursday.. or whenever. prolly gonna boulder unless somebody wants to rope up, in which case i'm down too.


all_that_is_rock


May 8, 2005, 8:18 PM
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oh yann, do I have a project for you :lol: new, improved, and 2 grades harder. your quicklink was swept away into the fog of climbing booty by braver men than us :oops: (I went back and checked)


jpearl


May 8, 2005, 8:22 PM
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Hey, cool, a NY climbers thread. Can us NYC gymrats play also, or is this for "real" climbers? (this is where Taino rips me to pieces!)

:wink:

Well, I'm back. I'd like to say I'm bad to, but I'm actually about four months out of training and a few pounds overweight at that. But hey, getting married will do that to you. Luckily, the Sandals resort in Ocho Rios, Jamaica where my wife and I spent our honeymoon, had a great climbing wall. I thought it would be dinky, but I brought my shoes and chalk along with me just in case, and I was not dissapointed. I might not have been dirtbagging it at the Gunks, but climbing a well-set wall in tropical island heat followed by a dip in a refreshing resort pool where I could swim up to the bar for a daquari more than suffices. I jokingly told my wife if she could send a route on the wall that I would do all of the cooking and cleaning when we got home. I even lent her my shoes and chalk, and gave her lots of beta. And you know what?

I've got a whole lot of cooking and cleaning ahead of me to do...

Great to hear that Adam is back, I hope he enjoyed his travels. Hope all is well with Taino and Happiegrrl. Maybe I'll run into you guys at the gym or in the area soon.


Partner wormly81


May 9, 2005, 4:17 AM
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In reply to:
your quicklink was swept away into the fog of climbing booty by braver men than us :oops:

Haha. What about braver women than us; theres plenty of those around too LOL

Jeff


ratherbe


May 9, 2005, 5:43 AM
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I'll be in the Southern Tier area (Corning) in a couple weeks. Any suggestions on places to climb as an easy day trip, potentially half-day (I am suppose to be going to spend time with family). Top rope, sport, trad, bouldering.... it's all good.
Thanks
Jen


Partner taino


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Yes, that was I on Disneyland with Terrie and Niru; is this Charlie? I didn't connect either of you with your screen names. :oops:

Jason - welcome back, and congratulations on your recent marriage. However, you do need to at least attempt to climb outside. Geez. :P

T


mistertyler


May 9, 2005, 6:24 AM
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Jason! Congrats on your marriage!

When you finish cooking and cleaning, you'll have to come on back outside with us.


shiggetyshiva


May 9, 2005, 6:40 AM
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:) Cool - NY State thread!

All that is rock - had fun climbing with you and RyanV weekend B4 last. We'll have to link up again sometime at the Gunks. I'm still up for a trip to Rumney for some forearm thrashing and bolt-clipping, too...

Went to the Adirondacks this weekend. Beautiful on Saturday, but cold, grey and windy on Sunday. My girlfriend and I were trying to find Shanty Cliff using the Don Mellor ADKS climbing guide, but didn't go far enough down Route 8. So we ended up bushwacking up what we now believe was Corner Mtn. Definitely no big face to climb, but we did stumble across some cool smaller faces (15 - 30'), a couple of which we cleaned a little and (quite possibly) made first ascents of. A short 5.5 and another route in the 5.9 range. On the way down from the mtn. we saw lots of potential boulder problems and a short, steep face (30') that would make some good pumpy climbing (if dry). On Sunday morning we found the real Shanty Cliff, but given the cold, chilly weather and our combined lack of enthusiasm for wading across the river, we headed home. We'll be back, Shanty Cliff!


Partner happiegrrrl


May 9, 2005, 7:27 AM
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Congratulation jpearl, on your marriage.

I didn't notice you not being at the gym, because I haven't been there myself....damned work!#%@&*!!!

But....I have a plan to be rid of the pesky substance(well, at least the part that is hindering me from getting to the gym at night and - with luck - will also give me Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!)

I am supposed to be leaving for AlaGeorgia (and Tennessee, too) this Thursday, to climb with dirtineye.....but alas, he broke his damned elbow yesterday! And NOT while climbing (rock, anyway). I am still going to go, unless he backs out, and intend to take full advantage of the handicap in any way possible.

ummmm....can a person belay with their arm in a cast?????


Partner taino


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I am still going to go, unless he backs out, and intend to take full advantage of the handicap in any way possible.

Kinky.

In reply to:
ummmm....can a person belay with their arm in a cast?????

That depends on what you define as "safe".

T


kimmyt


May 9, 2005, 12:39 PM
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Hey, I read over on Gunks.com that the new GRAY DICK is finished. Does anyone know any info on when it will be available for purchase??


Partner taino


May 9, 2005, 1:29 PM
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Nope. But I'm reserving a copy from R&S, just in case. :D

Edited to say:

Spoke with Rich Gottlieb at R&S; the new Gray Dick will be in-store earliest Friday, latest Monday - and they'll have hundreds of copies, so no need to call and reserve ahead of time.

I'm glad I'll be up there this weekend. :D

T


kimmyt


May 9, 2005, 2:33 PM
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Me and Eric are heading up there too (well, at least I think we are, he hasn't responded to my email). So maybe we'll see you around.

K.


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May 9, 2005, 3:09 PM
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MUA, site 19 - that's where I'll be, if you're camping out. Kelty Gunnison tent.


T


all_that_is_rock


May 11, 2005, 7:52 AM
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yeah tai this is charlie. see you camping :D yannbuse, wormly81 and I will be drinkin' homebrew and talkin sh!t around the multi abuse fire all weekend.


Partner taino


May 12, 2005, 11:35 AM
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Looking for a partner or partners for this Saturday, May 14 to do either some moderate multipitch or to toprope at Peterskill. I can lead 5.6-5.7, follow 5.8-5.9, jug up anything harder.

I've got a full rack, and enough webbing/static line to founder a mule. Beginners are welcome (even on multipitch), but you must have your own personal gear (harness, shoes, two locking carabiners, belay device, and HELMET) and you must know how to belay safely.

If you don't have a car, I can pick you up at the bus station in New Paltz in the morning. I will not be returning to the City on Saturday night, so you'd have to take the bus back as well.

I'll not have internet service after this evening, so feel free to drop me a line at (number deleted).

Cheers,

T

Edited to say: Thank you all; I managed to find someone with whom to climb. Cheers!


sirlancelot


May 12, 2005, 7:14 PM
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Let me first say that its about time there was a NY climbers thread.

I'm also looking for a climbing partner this saturday. Will lead up to 5.7, follow up to 5.9. Feel free to call me at 201-841-3300.

Lance


climbingbetty22


May 12, 2005, 8:09 PM
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I've tentative plans to climb at the Gunks for next weekend, the 20-22. Anyone available that Friday?


Partner taino


May 16, 2005, 7:03 AM
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D'oh!

Love to, but I've got a soccer game. Might be available on Sunday, if that helps.

T


all_that_is_rock


May 18, 2005, 5:23 PM
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looks like the NY climbing thred is going pretty slow, it must be because we are all out climbing :lol:


Partner taino


May 19, 2005, 6:50 AM
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Damned straight.

That, and many of the Gunks climbers don't generally post on this site - they post on Gunks.com. *shrug*

T


grinspoon


May 19, 2005, 6:57 AM
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Alright, I'll post up.
Last sunday I hit up the Dihedrals and climbed some routes on the upper tier that hadn't been climbed in years. There's a really cool chimney that has good pro.
This weekend, Keene Valley! I haven't been there since October to climb the Trap Dike. Way too long...


shakylegs


May 19, 2005, 7:08 AM
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grinspoon, could you report back afterward to give us the heads up on the bug situation? Thanks.


jackflash


May 19, 2005, 7:32 AM
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In reply to:
Alright, I'll post up.
Last sunday I hit up the Dihedrals and climbed some routes on the upper tier that hadn't been climbed in years. There's a really cool chimney that has good pro.

Is that the one near the right end of the Tier or the middle. A few weeks ago I did Risque Shift, which turns the roof instead of heading into the squeeze chimney from the handcrack both routes share. A very nice route. I need to do more of the routes up there, especially since its the only place where you can pretend the cliffs weren't devestated by chainsaw-happy rail crews.


all_that_is_rock


May 19, 2005, 11:39 AM
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In reply to:
grinspoon, could you report back afterward to give us the heads up on the bug situation? Thanks.
GO SOON. it is still fairly chilly. I just got back and plan on going again tommorow (friday). myself and jeff (wormly81) went this last week and didnt see one black fly. we hiked into wall face but got rained out on the third pitch :evil: :evil: :evil: we ended up climbing in keene vally on some scary 5.6 with anchore to anchore runouts. it was easy climbing but a 50 meter runout with falls that wouldnt be clean can really get the pulse going.


Partner wormly81


May 19, 2005, 4:42 PM
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As Charlie said, the bugs are not a problem yet in the High Peaks and other Northern areas of the park. Its still a touch cold but that shouldn't deter anyone whose motivated from climbing.

The Chapel Pond slabs are a really good time. Expect a low angle friction-fest; the moves are all very straightforward but way above your gear (seriously). I would recommend the regular route for anybody who is interested in challenging their high-angle gunks jugfest paradigm (its also supposed to have the best pro on the slabs). The Empress has some very interesting terrain, just choose a line that takes you to the prominant offwidth.

I am constantly being impressed by the park. What a place.

Jeff


shakylegs


May 20, 2005, 8:59 AM
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were you climbing on the left side of the slab? Near Greensleeves? Because, yeah, the gear is kinda sparse there.
Jewels and Gems, across the street, is a sweet little, non-populated crag.


all_that_is_rock


May 20, 2005, 9:13 AM
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yeah shakeylegs, I think we started on greensleves and trended left twards the offwidth on emperess


Partner wormly81


May 20, 2005, 9:27 AM
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I don't think that would be correct Charlie.

From what I've been able to find out, Greensleeves is a variation of Empress that starts at the birch ledge belay (below the off-sized crack) and traverses right to a corner system that takes good gear.

I still havnt been able to find out what climb we started on; it was the nice crack 30 feet right of where the regular route starts (i think).

Jeff


Partner wormly81


May 21, 2005, 6:04 PM
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So it looks like rain all week. Anyone thinking about traveling to drier rock?

Jeff


all_that_is_rock


May 22, 2005, 4:23 PM
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ha ha, yall suckers that listened to he weather man got jiped out of two buitifull days (at least in the AM) at the gunks. but the high E area was a mobscene. I went over there to do modern times and in the 10 min it took me to eat a powerbar, smoke a smoke, and rack up i got a (uncalled) rope droped on me and hit with a rock in the back. the same party guilty of these two offences droped a trad draw from halfway up that just missed me. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:


Partner happiegrrrl


May 22, 2005, 4:41 PM
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I didn't listen to the weather report either, and just got back from Peterskill. Got my first NY lead in today, on Cornflake.

So funny - last year a guide was telling me that, for my first lead I should try a climb well within my ability, that I had follewed several times and had wired. And I thought "I'll be damned if I am leading Cornflake for my first lead!" I wanted something more "adventurous."(which I did get....my first lead was a 5.5 climb on wet, dirty rock, at dusk into darkness, that had been climbed by only a few people before hand.....)

I was remembering the flake on that climb to be practically as wide as a Gone With The wind staircase(yes, I exagerate.....). But today, when my partenr asked if I wanted to lead something, suddenly Cornflake seemed like exactly what I wanted to have.

It was funny - I went up to it and thought "Now THAT can't be Cornflake! Look at how miniscule that flake is!" hahahah

Anyway, I think I did okay. I kept in mind how theplacements would protect me if I came off and even if a piece pulled, something I didn't think about on my previous two leads, and when I had one spot where I wasn't finding a placement, and had the idea to just run it out, telling myself I wouldn't fall off, my inner voice said "Well, probably not. But you don't place gear thinking you will come off; it's in caseyou do." So, I looked a bit harder and got a pleacement.

The rain started up just as I was setting up the belay, so it was a short day for us, but I was really very pleased.

I also got the new Dick Williams guidebook. And the history he detailed is quite interesting! I have some ideas I want to post about what I read later on.......


climbingbetty22


May 22, 2005, 5:20 PM
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I just got back from a great weekend at the Gunks too. My first time there!! I was very thankful that the weather forecast predicted rain because it seemed that it kept most of the crowds away.

I got to a great easy lead on Bunny, then we did Horseman (no waiting!!) Classic and Pink Laurel before the rain came in. It was definitely a great way to spend my birthday. Thanks so much to cracklover and misfit4life who gave me so much beta and showed a couple of Gunks noobies around!!


seek7


May 22, 2005, 6:44 PM
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How did you and your friends find pink laurel?


grinspoon


May 22, 2005, 8:19 PM
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Jackflash wrote:
In reply to:
Is that the one near the right end of the Tier or the middle. A few weeks ago I did Risque Shift, which turns the roof instead of heading into the squeeze chimney from the handcrack both routes share.

The chimney is in the middle of the upper tier cliff. I was going to lead Risque Shift, but the chimney really caught my eye. I'll try it next time.

I just got back from Keene Valley. No bugs, the weather was fine on saturday, we hit up Pitchoff and the Tanager Face. The weather was awful on sunday and it was chilly both nights.


Partner wormly81


May 22, 2005, 8:41 PM
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In reply to:
I just got back from Keene Valley. No bugs, the weather was fine on saturday, we hit up Pitchoff and the Tanager Face. The weather was awful on sunday and it was chilly both nights.

Where exactly is the Tanager Face? Is it the rock with two bolted anchors right on the far south corner of the pond?

Jeff


grinspoon


May 22, 2005, 8:51 PM
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wormly81 wrote:
In reply to:
Where exactly is the Tanager Face? Is it the rock with two bolted anchors right on the far south corner of the pond?

Yeah..that's it, on the southside of the pond head into the gully, turn right and head uphill at the carin. By bolted anchors I'm going to assume you mean the face climb with 2 bolts for pro.


Partner wormly81


May 22, 2005, 8:59 PM
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In reply to:
wormly81 wrote:
In reply to:
Where exactly is the Tanager Face? Is it the rock with two bolted anchors right on the far south corner of the pond?

Yeah..that's it, on the southside of the pond head into the gully, turn right and head uphill at the carin. By bolted anchors I'm going to assume you mean the face climb with 2 bolts for pro.

I believe we are talking about the same place. The two bolts protect the face of the climb after it moves out of the dihedral/corner?

I was on the climb just to the right there maybe 5.4 or so with some wandering protection. It was really nice to climb right on the lake... even got a few waves from the guys fishing and whatnot.

Must get back to the park....

Jeff


Partner taino


May 23, 2005, 6:35 AM
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No climbing for me this past weekend, but I can't say that it was a bad weekend; played soccer for the first time in 18 years on Friday, scored two goals and had one assist. Went to a MLS soccer game at Giant Stadium on Saturday, and screamed myself hoarse (still can't talk, today). Spent Sunday recovering, and am still recovering today.

Hope to get up to the Gunks this coming weekend, if it doesn't rain. :evil:

Congrats on the lead, Terrie!

T


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May 23, 2005, 8:38 AM
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In reply to:
Thanks so much to cracklover and misfit4life who gave me so much beta and showed a couple of Gunks noobies around!!

You're very welcome! I had a blast!

In reply to:
How did you and your friends find pink laurel?

Here's my perspective, as the leader on the climb: I enjoyed it. I found the first pitch to have two distinct cruxes - one down pretty low, and another about halfway up (getting out of one of the bombay chimneys).

The guidebook suggests that you walk over to the tree at the end of the first pitch, and then walk back to do the second pitch, but to get your full money's worth, I'd suggest belaying right where pitch one ends (and where pitch 2 begins). There's plenty of gear there to make an anchor, you'll save the tree from an earlier demise, and even though you've got a pretty comfy ledge to belay from, the exposure is, well, quite noticable!

There's only one or two real chimney moves, but if you're comfortable in chimneys, you'll feel much more comfortable placing gear from a restful stance.

Also, the second pitch, while looking extremely intimidating, is pretty easy.

Oh, and I found the climb to be one of the easiest 5.9s I've led at the Gunks.

And climbingbetty22 and Carter* were fine partners. Carter did not have much multi-pitch experience, but he learned fast! And climbingbetty22 was knowledgeable and just fun to have around. And she's got a great rack!

GO

*Edited to fix Carter's name (don't know his tag here on the board).


climbingbetty22


May 23, 2005, 9:15 AM
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And climbingbetty22 and misfit4life were fine partners. misfit4life hasn't had a ton of multi-pitch experience, but he learned fast! And climbingbetty22 was knowledgeable and just fun to have around. And she's got a great rack!

GO

Aww.. thanks Gabe! I couldn't ask for a better compliment!!!

Just as an aside...Carter isn't misfit4lf... :oops:

You didn't get to see carter on his first trad lead on Sunday on a little 5.4 called Short Job...in the rain on wet rock nonetheless!!! He climbed it in fine style and looked really comfy on it!


edge


May 23, 2005, 9:20 AM
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Greetings, NY climbers! I am glad you got your own thread up and rolling. If this turns out anything like the Mass or PA climbers thread, well, umm, maybe we shouldn't wish that on you guys yet... :wink:

Anyway, now that your thread has achieved official "(insert state name here) Climbers Thread" status, we need to follow suite and stop it from echoing to the front page. It will remain sticky, so you will always know where to find it.

Cheers,
Loran


ikefromla


May 23, 2005, 9:23 AM
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Saturday was a gorgeous day for those of us who stuck to the boulders as well. It ended up being a day of working problems and not sending anything new, but nothin wrong with that. I'm headed up for the long weekend as well if anyone is interested in joinin me.


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May 23, 2005, 1:52 PM
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In reply to:
Just as an aside...Carter isn't misfit4lf... :oops:

Oops! Thanks for the correction.

In reply to:
You didn't get to see carter on his first trad lead on Sunday on a little 5.4 called Short Job...in the rain on wet rock nonetheless!!! He climbed it in fine style and looked really comfy on it!

Good for him!

GO


grinspoon


May 23, 2005, 6:07 PM
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wormly81 wrote:
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It was really nice to climb right on the lake...

Naw, can't be it then. This face is much higher up from the pond. I think the pond was barely visable.
In reply to:
Must get back to the park....

Amen brother! Gunks...pfffttt....


all_that_is_rock


May 23, 2005, 6:10 PM
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grinspoon wrote "Gunks...pfffttt...." watch it little man. :wink:


shakylegs


May 24, 2005, 8:06 AM
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In reply to:
I just got back from Keene Valley. No bugs, the weather was fine on saturday, we hit up Pitchoff and the Tanager Face. The weather was awful on sunday and it was chilly both nights.

What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell?


Partner taino


May 24, 2005, 8:34 AM
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Amen brother! Gunks...pfffttt....

BLAM!

Damn, missed. Hate them tourists...

T :wink:


all_that_is_rock


May 24, 2005, 10:18 AM
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hey tai, grinspoon is just jelous that studs like you and I get all riped from all the roof climbing in the gunks :wink:


all_that_is_rock


May 24, 2005, 10:19 AM
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edited because I hate when it double posts


grinspoon


May 24, 2005, 9:14 PM
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shakylegs wrote:
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What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell?

Yep, my first multi-pitch lead. We slept at the base of the warm-up wall below it and a party still beat us to it. I told my buddies I heard doors slam and voices...they continued to sleep.

I have a confession, even though I've only done a couple single pitch climbs there (but bouldered alot) I think the Gunks are kinda ghey. For me, the Dacks and Gunks are the same distance. I rather go to the Dacks because the atmosphere is just so much better/diverse there. OK..bring it on mofos! I wanna hear it...


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May 25, 2005, 5:35 AM
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I have got to start getting to the Daks this season, even if they are twice the distance from my home as the Gunks are. I love the Gunks, but I have to admit - the idea of getting into areas where I don't see and hear others all day long is incredible. I have a friend who took me to an area like this down in Georgia and the sense of isolation makes for an entirely different experience.


shakylegs


May 25, 2005, 6:42 AM
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shakylegs wrote:
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What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell?

Yep, my first multi-pitch lead. We slept at the base of the warm-up wall below it and a party still beat us to it. I told my buddies I heard doors slam and voices...they continued to sleep.

Isn't the start of the 3rd pitch absolutely wild? Plug in a cam as high as you can, and then just lay back that crack as fast as you.
And traversing under that tiny roof on the second pitch; yummy. It's such a great route.


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May 25, 2005, 8:27 AM
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I have a confession, even though I've only done a couple single pitch climbs there (but bouldered alot) I think the Gunks are kinda ghey. For me, the Dacks and Gunks are the same distance. I rather go to the Dacks because the atmosphere is just so much better/diverse there. OK..bring it on mofos! I wanna hear it...

I agree, bouldering at the Gunks is "kinda ghey". So is doing all single pitch stuff there. By the way, if you walk down past all the popular climbs, or if you go there during the week, no crowds.

And I'd love to get up to the Dacks!

GO


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May 25, 2005, 9:04 AM
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In reply to:
shakylegs wrote:
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What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell?

Yep, my first multi-pitch lead. We slept at the base of the warm-up wall below it and a party still beat us to it. I told my buddies I heard doors slam and voices...they continued to sleep.

I have a confession, even though I've only done a couple single pitch climbs there (but bouldered alot) I think the Gunks are kinda ghey. For me, the Dacks and Gunks are the same distance. I rather go to the Dacks because the atmosphere is just so much better/diverse there. OK..bring it on mofos! I wanna hear it...

As Gabe said, you're right - bouldering and climbing single-pitch at the Gunks is rather ghey. However, no big deal that you don't like to go there. It's one less climber that gets in the way. :)

T


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May 25, 2005, 9:12 AM
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hey tai, grinspoon is just jelous that studs like you and I get all riped from all the roof climbing in the gunks :wink:

Charlie, true story:

I was at Red Rocks Rendevouz, and taking a technique class with some famous person; my GF and I went to climb what he'd set up, and he asked us where we climb... When he heard "The Gunks!", he said that all of the Gunks climbers he knew were hideously strong from having to pull through all the roofs.

I guess there's some truth to it. :twisted:

T


shakylegs


May 25, 2005, 9:32 AM
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In reply to:
true story:

I was at Red Rocks Rendevouz, and taking a technique class with some famous person; my GF and I went to climb what he'd set up, and he asked us where we climb... When he heard "The Gunks!", he said that all of the Gunks climbers he knew were hideously strong from having to pull through all the roofs.

I guess there's some truth to it. :twisted:

T

So, I guess you didn't mention your little epic on Shockley's, right?


all_that_is_rock


May 25, 2005, 5:10 PM
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AWWW SHIT! shakey legs is callin tai out :lol: I musta missed this story, lets hear it........ to grinspoon: yeah the daks are fun, and a tad less crouded than the gunks. but I do like the climbing, and rock in the gunks better, you just have to know where to be on what days to avoid the crowds.


all_that_is_rock


May 25, 2005, 5:11 PM
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and I live 10 min away so im kinda partial. you know that whole "my crags dick is bigger than your crags dick" thing. :wink:


gunked


May 28, 2005, 5:44 AM
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... rock in the gunks better, you just have to know where to be on what days to avoid the crowds.

Amen to that! If you want to get away from the crowds, you just gotta be willing to hike. There's rock everywhere around here!

Happiegirrrl, you listenin'?

Did anybody get nailed bad by that thunderstorm yesterday? We were just packing up when it came in. On the way back to town, there were 2 or 3 emergency vehicles heading towards the cliffs. Just hoping everybody's okay (thrown in with a bit of curiousity :roll: )

It's a beautiful day today! Get out and climb!

-Jason :D


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May 30, 2005, 8:13 AM
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I am definitely "willing to hike".... especially if that means getting to places that aren't on the map. I'm still too new to go out in search of these things on my own at this point, except as recon for future reference, plus....I don't have a car yet, and just got my learner's permit(I let my damned license expire - helpful hint: NEVER let this happen to you.....I have to actually take the stupid behind the wheel lessons now. And, cannot schedule the road test until this is complete, and the wait for a test is something like 10 weeks!!!!!).

But I definitely am interested. I am willing to belay slave for safe people working on new things in exchange for their experience in this type of thing - I have held rope for another for hours and hours on end, and not on a gri gri, either. I am pretty sure the person would be happy to give reference on my ability to stay focused and aware and be a safe partner.

Anyway - I had to work yesterday and have to today. But I got out on Saturday, and seconded for Tradrenn(a Cannuck down here on his Gunks maiden voyage). I followed him up Minty and the first two pitches of Hawk(which has been downgraded from 5.5- to 5.4, if anyone's interested in knowing). Hawk, I would think, is not a climb for a 5.4 leader to be going at! GOD - was it FUN, though!

The it started to rain....grrrrr. But by the time we were on the ground - the rain had stopped! double grrrrrrr..... So, we went looking for someting else to do just the first pitch, and started on Oscar's Variation. I was fairly certain I would not be able to make it up that one, but was willing to try. It started to rain again as my partner was leading up, and I let him know that I understood if he preferred to do the cleaning on his way down instead of sitting up there getting wet and chilled while belaying me as I flailed up the climb.

I did get the opening move in and then it started to come down..... For myself, I was proud that I exectued that move in one shot . It wasn't so easy for me(Sometimes I have commitment issues....).


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May 30, 2005, 8:16 AM
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Oh yeah - I am pretty certain I can get out on this coming Friday, if anyone is interested. Only caveat is that I have to get back to the city in the evening, so need to try for the 4:55pm return bus.


dirtineye


May 30, 2005, 9:37 AM
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In reply to:

But I definitely am interested. I am willing to belay slave for safe people working on new things in exchange for their experience in this type of thing - I have held rope for another for hours and hours on end, and not on a gri gri, either. I am pretty sure the person would be happy to give reference on my ability to stay focused and aware and be a safe partner.

She's a good belayer. Has held unexpected falls like a champ, pays attention, really is a pretty fine belayer all around.

Will not complain even after hours of little progress, dodging rocks, vines and dirt all the while.

Cleans gear well, places gear well, likes to be safe-- unlikely to do anything stupid.

Will do trailwork on demand! (I said unlikely, not impossible)

can recognize poison ivy and avoid it, hehe.

IF you build a little fire under her, she can actually climb a lot harder than she claims.

Has good sense of humor for a damned yankee.

Just don't offer her bar-b-qued dog for lunch and everything will be OK.

Take this girl climbing.


all_that_is_rock


May 30, 2005, 8:26 PM
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hey gunked I was there in the rain. I saw someone take a big whipper on modern times as i was leaving. they got the rope behind there leg and swung quite a ways into a slab. they were moving around and talking to thier belayer as I was walking away but that might have been the reason for the ambulances. I also saw those and was wondering if it was the guy on modern times. anyone else know what happend if anything?????


grinspoon


Jun 1, 2005, 11:30 AM
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y0 m0f0s,
I was at the dihedrals last weekend and found some gear, lemme know if it belongs to you


pjcozzi


Jun 3, 2005, 7:47 AM
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Hey NY climbers,

Iím looking for some beta on Horseman at the Gunks. Iíve heard itís a ďsoftĒ 5.5 but it looks pretty steep to me. Iíve lead Jackie and Dennis without any (major) problems and was wondering how Horseman stacked up. Does it require a lot of crack technique?

Iíll be taking a 3-4 day trip up to there soon so I wanted to plan my adventures in advance.

Thanks a lot,
Patrick


Partner taino


Jun 3, 2005, 8:07 AM
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Patrick,

Lead it.

T


Partner nostalgia


Jun 3, 2005, 8:16 AM
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I should be able to (finally) get out to da Gunks on Jun11. Anyone need a partner? Here's my classified ad:

MWM seeks partner for Gunks climbing.
Will gladly second up to 5.8 or top rope.
Not into kinky stuff, likes to keep ropes straight.
Knows how to place passive pro and build TR anchors.
Self sufficient, no whining, always ready to learn.
Likes moonlit walks on the beach.
Will buy leader beer after climbing :)

-Joe


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Jun 3, 2005, 9:12 AM
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Bloody hell, Joe - you would pick that weekend.

Drop me a line; I might have a lead for you.

T


pjcozzi


Jun 3, 2005, 10:14 AM
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In reply to:
Patrick,

Lead it.

T

Thanks for the vote of confidence. As long as the weather is ok, Iíll be at the gunks Thursday thru Sunday (9th Ė 12th). Iíll probably see you there.

Patrick


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Jun 3, 2005, 11:01 AM
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I'll be there, regardless; I have an AMGA class that weekend, and it's rain or shine.

Good luck. :)

T


jackflash


Jun 6, 2005, 6:17 AM
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I'm in the flatlands of Michigan for another week and am nursing a finger to boot, so I can only climb vicariously. What'd you all get onto this past weekend?


Partner taino


Jun 6, 2005, 6:40 AM
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Not a damned thing.

I injured my shoulder playing keeper in a soccer game on Friday night; couldn't move my arm all day Saturday, but went up anyway so that my partner would have someone to at least belay them on whatever. Ended up taking them through "ground school", so the day certainly wasn't wasted; I was outside, the weather was beautiful, and while I wasn't actually climbing I was doing something that involved climbing.

Anyone else?

T


Partner nostalgia


Jun 6, 2005, 6:51 AM
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Anyone else?
Yea, I was going to Allamuchy on Sunday for some TRing. I ended up stepping around the pile of rope and gear in my hallway as I cleaned my house all day. :P

Sorry to hear about the shoulder. I miss my days as goal keeper :)

-Joe


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Jun 6, 2005, 7:17 AM
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I had to work both weekend days, but I was able to fanagle last Friday free. I went up to Peterskill and tried to do some bouldering(I am a weakling chicken, couldn't even pull off a V0). I did come upon a traverse that I was able to do so easily I was praying nobody would see me......(only saw one other party out there the whole day. very nice). I referred to it as the "Preschool Traverse." I suppose I should have tried to do it no-hands; that would at least be a challenge.....next time. And, I walked the cliffline, which was a good thing to do to get to know the place a little bit. I've always only followed others around.


kimmyt


Jun 6, 2005, 7:30 AM
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Careful on those clifflines, they really weren't kidding when they said the copperheads are out en force this season!

I set up a beautiful anchor unknowingly ontop of one very-disgruntles 2-footer this weekend. Tai went to clean a hex and I said, "Yo, watch out for that snake" at which point he cleaned with even more caution. That sucker wasn't too happy at us disrupting his nap, thought he was going to bite the hex for awhile! (that Xmas hex is cursed I tell ya.....)

K.


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Jun 7, 2005, 5:19 AM
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The weather up in New England was to die for this past weekend. Although a little hot and buggy, Rumney was fantastic Thursday-Saturday. Went up to the Franconia Notch on Friday to give Moby Grape a go but got shut down by lack of big gear on Reppys Crack. Wont make the mistake leaving the big cams in the car next time. Left Lake Winnipisauke around 2 pm on Sunday and made it back in the Gunks with enough time to cruise up city lights with a great view of the city lights.

Hopefully this week stays relatively dry at the gunks; Im really looking forward to getting some pitches in before heading down south on a scuba diving trip...

Oh and I have enough to worry about without your fabricated copperhead stories Tai... :shock:

Jeff


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Jun 7, 2005, 6:28 AM
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Nothing fabricated about this one, Jeff. It was definitely a good-sized copperhead, and it was definitely not happy to see us. However, we left it alone and it returned the favor.

As Kim said, though, the snake looked like it was going to strike the hex as I was attempting to clean it; I was jiggling the hex to try to loosen it, and the snake didn't appreciate it. I stopped for a little while, the snake relaxed, then I started again and the snake decided that it wasn't worth the venom and slithered further back into the crack.

T


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Jun 7, 2005, 6:31 AM
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^ Use the marvelous rc.com *definitions tool* and run your curser over the word Copperhead in the above post.

Talk about specieism - I don't see any need for promoting animal cruelty......jeeeez.....


all_that_is_rock


Jun 7, 2005, 11:30 PM
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hmm, what crack was that copperhead in?...... Tai, I hear its not smart to play with snakes in cracks. oh well, I guess at least you were useing protection. :wink: .....P.S. when is the next time you will be up here, I see you around enough, we should go climbing sometime.


all_that_is_rock


Jun 7, 2005, 11:32 PM
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hmm, what crack was that copperhead in?...... Tai, I hear its not smart to play with snakes in cracks. oh well, I guess at least you were useing protection. :wink: .....P.S. when is the next time you will be up here, I see you around enough, we should go climbing sometime.


Partner taino


Jun 8, 2005, 4:57 AM
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One of the larger cracks on the top of the cliff, just over Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man and Nutmaster, at Peterskill. Large enough a crack to put a #7 hex in, bomber.

It wasn't there when Kim built the anchor, I swear! Darned snake!

I'll be up there this weekend, but I've got a TRSM lesson that will preclude me climbing on Saturday and a fucked-up shoulder that will preclude me climbing on Sunday. After that, it'll be a few weeks - familial obligations, and all that. July 4th weekend - maybe. Drop me a line with your availability.

T


seek7


Jun 9, 2005, 6:07 PM
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As a storm approached yesterday, I left a rappel anchor (cordelette and locking biner) at the top of "moby dick" to clean my gear on the route . Use them in good health. I know its not very enticing considering all the slings and biners left on twilight zone, but I rather not suggest to beginning leaders on "andrew" that this is a good rappel route. I suggest climbing "android" to "moby dick", which was a pretty awesome link up.


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Jun 10, 2005, 3:33 PM
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Hey -

Ralph (from Tuttenhill) has a post on Gunks.com, looking for belayers to work a corporate party in NYC on 6/25. If anyone need some cash, and fits the bill, check it out. It's in the Job Listings forum.


all_that_is_rock


Jun 10, 2005, 5:19 PM
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In reply to:
As a storm approached yesterday, I left a rappel anchor (cordelette and locking biner) at the top of "moby dick" to clean my gear on the route . Use them in good health. I know its not very enticing considering all the slings and biners left on twilight zone, but I rather not suggest to beginning leaders on "andrew" that this is a good rappel route. I suggest climbing "android" to "moby dick", which was a pretty awesome link up.
sorry seek, I already snatched that shit. if you can describe it to me, I may be kind enough to return it. I should warn you though it has already been used in a few slackline setups


all_that_is_rock


Jun 12, 2005, 11:29 AM
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here we go again, another week of rain in the wonderfull north east. :x I wish I could climb the routes that are under large enough roofs to stay dry (twilight zone, kansas city, yellow wall).


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Jun 12, 2005, 1:24 PM
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here we go again, another week of rain in the wonderfull north east. :x I wish I could climb the routes that are under large enough roofs to stay dry (twilight zone, kansas city, yellow wall).

Just whip out those aiders. TZ and KC are fabulous aid routes. And ya don't even need a partner.

GO


seek7


Jun 12, 2005, 7:19 PM
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All_that_is_rock: Thanks for the offer, slack line away.


all_that_is_rock


Jun 13, 2005, 7:23 PM
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ok, all nude acent of MF in the gunks. who's down????
ps. man steming strongly frowned upon


jackflash


Jun 13, 2005, 8:24 PM
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ok, all nude acent of MF in the gunks. who's down????

Is it co-ed? I'd be "up" for that.


all_that_is_rock


Jun 13, 2005, 8:27 PM
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I'm trying. I realy want to do some nude/co-ed acents in th gunks.


kimmyt


Jun 14, 2005, 6:03 AM
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found a partner


feedmerocks


Jun 14, 2005, 7:39 PM
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Hi folks! This is a general introduction since I haven't posted any other partner requests this year. I'm in the Gunks a lot (both weekdays and weekends for the time being), in case anyone is looking to partner up.

This is my 4th season leading in the Gunks. My leading level varies - I can probably get up, on lead, routes from 5.8+ to easy 5.10 but may sketch out and hangdog depending on how sustained or devious the route is. I rarely fall, but have been known to hangdog. On the lead, I have onsighted a small handful of 5.9-/5.9, one 5.9+, and one 5.10a. Have transportation, rack, and rope.

It's getting into the hot part of the summer and right now I'm interesting in easy bouldering in the shade or easy trad, a few levels below my lead limit or on moves I'm fairly comfortable with. If you're looking for a partner, I'm happy to follow anything you lead and there's a good chance I can take over if you need to bail. But I'd prefer not to HAVE to take over, so please stay reasonably within your physical limits. Mental limits are negotiable - we all have our off days.


all_that_is_rock


Jun 14, 2005, 8:38 PM
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PM me if you need partners for any specific days. I am pretty flexible with my sheduale.


Partner happiegrrrl


Jun 15, 2005, 7:33 AM
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ok, all nude acent of MF in the gunks. who's down????
ps. man steming strongly frowned upon

I'm saving my virgin NA for a lead on Shockley's; what can I say....I'm still a gumby traditionalist. But....it's going to be a while before I can pull that one off, and the op to be naughty is enticing. It's a good thing I have waaaaay to much ego and pride to do the hokey pokey(ya put yer whole self in...) on a line I would have no chance in hell of climbing with a modicum of grace.......


kimmyt


Jun 15, 2005, 7:50 AM
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Funny, Terrie, I was talking about that just last weekend. You never hear of chicks doing any nude ascents. Why? Because probably it'd cause accidents down on the hairpin...

K.


Partner taino


Jun 15, 2005, 8:12 AM
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To say nothing of the whiplash and lead falls it would cause in leaders on adjacent routes. :shock:

T


shakylegs


Jun 15, 2005, 8:27 AM
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Funny, Terrie, I was talking about that just last weekend. You never hear of chicks doing any nude ascents. Why? Because probably it'd cause accidents down on the hairpin...

K.

There were quite a few back in the day, Barb Williams being one of them.


kimmyt


Jun 15, 2005, 8:35 AM
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Sweet! I figured there had to have been a few ballsy chicks back then that had done it.

K.


Partner happiegrrrl


Jun 15, 2005, 8:40 AM
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Guys would just have to keep their lead head on......and no, I don't mean that lead head.


feedmerocks


Jun 15, 2005, 12:35 PM
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Elaine Mathews? Topless with climbing rack on the Vulgarian Digest cover, I believe. She might have done a nude ascent. Way before my time though.

Barb Moran (formerly Williams, formerly Moran?) is still climbing, and still good looking... :-D


all_that_is_rock


Jun 15, 2005, 1:56 PM
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Elaine still climbs in the gunks.


Partner happiegrrrl


Jun 20, 2005, 8:35 AM
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So - did everyone have a nice weekend? I got to climb with RyanV and KimmyT at Peterskill on Saturday, and had a really nice time. Kimmy and I have both just begun leading, and it was really cool to watch her go on up. I never climbed with a starting-out leader before, and really liked to have someone in the same boat.

Seeing Ryan's posts for partner, we offered to let him climb with us(So generous of us.....I know I am fooling nobody. Because of Ryan, we got to climb things a little harder than we would have without him.)

I did one little baby lead, but - on a line that I don't believe has seen anybody up it before. Mainly because it is a midget climb, even for Peterskill. But.....it was good practice for me. Hanging on while carrying out strategic demossifying and cobweb removal - I have helped another partner with it, but I was on toprope and hanging at the time. Being on lead, even on a little project; just a wee bit different.

It was a good day all around, but man.....after attempting Golden Dreams, I had the biggest energy crash I have ever felt. I coulda used a cup of coffee.


I have next Sunday(6/26) open, if anyone needs a partner. And possibly - if anyone want to go up this Friday, 6/24, I can arrange it. I'm also interested in bouldering(on Friday) at Peterskill......

Kimmy - send me your email, and I will get your pictures to you!


Partner happiegrrrl


Jun 20, 2005, 8:50 AM
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On an NYC front - on Sunday I spent the afternoon beginning clean-up the Tito and Tanya cave in the Northwoods section of Central Park.

I am really interested in getting some bouldering partners to continue on with this. Anyone?

I took all the logs and tree branches out from under the rock's overhang, but I am not strong enough to really get them completely out of the way. It would be nice to have a hand in moving them out of the trail, where they sit right now, in a large pile.

I decobwebbed the face and crevices too. Next time I go up, I will bring a rake, and get the glass bits out of the drop zone. Other than that - it is only going to need people to start cleaning the holds as needed. The rock has got quite a bit of that greenish dusty-like coating. I don't know if it is lichen or what, but truth be told, at my level of bouldering(big holds only!), it doesn't get in my way.

The rock has some good entry-level boulder problems on it, none of which I can yet do, of course. I have found about 4 problems already but, being a big chicken, and having no crashpad.....I can't really get myself to commit.

There also seemed to be a little bit o business being transacted in the area..... I was a little worried about being there alone, but don't think I would feel uncomfortable at all if I had even one other person.

Please - post up or PM me if you are interested.


Partner wormly81


Jun 20, 2005, 12:10 PM
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Hey everyone,

With Charlie busy and my other partners not around I was hoping to find someone to climb with this week. I will follow anything and can lead 8's and better with a good belayer. Looking to hook up Tues, Wednesday, or Thurs (prefereably all 3).

*** Will subsidize experienced tradsters with 12 year scotch for knowledge and insight. ***

Jeff


jackflash


Jun 20, 2005, 12:44 PM
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I went to Little Falls on Sunday for the first time after staying off a busted middle finger for three weeks. I taped a metal splint to the finger so that I couldn't bend it, which meant I couldn't use it in crimps or jams, or fit it into horizontal slots very well. So most of Moss Island received the bird from me at some point that day.

After helping a friend learn to set anchors, we left the Island for the Dihedrals, where I did a couple of cracks I've been wanting to lead: Trojan Elite, Buzz Junky, Harder Than Your Husband, and the Arrow. Great routes, especially Harder Than Your Husband.

I'm looking forward to a Gunks trip Thursday.


kimmyt


Jun 20, 2005, 12:54 PM
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Yep, as Terrie said it was a nice day. Sunday was good as well, I didn't get any leading in but I was feeling more like following and it was quite crowded at the Trapps anyway.

I finally ponied up and bought a season pass, which really is the smartest thing I've done in a while. I mean, considering I've probably already spent twice the amount of a season pass this season on day passes alone....

Well, anyway, here's to hoping the weather stays nice and cool this upcoming weekend, and maybe I'll see some of you around!

K.


feedmerocks


Jun 20, 2005, 1:10 PM
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So - did everyone have a nice weekend? I got to climb with RyanV and KimmyT at Peterskill on Saturday, and had a really nice time. Kimmy and I have both just begun leading, and it was really cool to watch her go on up. I never climbed with a starting-out leader before, and really liked to have someone in the same boat.

Yo Terrie, Ryan is Good People. You did well to drag him into your party.

Had a nice weekend too, over at the Trapps. The weather was excellent wasn't it? I'll save the spray for elsewhere but I've got a project I'm working on lately as well.


Partner wormly81


Jun 20, 2005, 1:28 PM
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Partnered up.. Thanks!

Jeff


all_that_is_rock


Jun 20, 2005, 1:28 PM
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Jeff, I'm up to climb friday.... you silly man whore you. and feedmerocks, whats the proj?


all_that_is_rock


Jun 20, 2005, 1:29 PM
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Partnered up.. Thanks!

Jeff
screw you too :wink:


climbingbetty22


Jun 20, 2005, 4:28 PM
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I'm stoked to be going to the Gunks this weekend!! I plan to torture myself by leading all the easy climbs I can get on. I need to get a lot of mileage on the sharp end so I can stop being a pansy and start upping the ante!! :)


feedmerocks


Jun 20, 2005, 5:28 PM
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Jeff, I'm up to climb friday.... you silly man whore you. and feedmerocks, whats the proj?

coex


napoleon_in_rags


Jun 21, 2005, 11:31 AM
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If anyone is up for climing in the Adirondacks from 27Jun through 20Jul, send me a PM
-Pete-


all_that_is_rock


Jun 21, 2005, 1:00 PM
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post deleted


pjcozzi


Jun 22, 2005, 9:03 AM
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Anyone interested in climbing at the Gunks this Friday, June 24th?

I have a full rack and lead 5.5, follow 5.8/5.9. Iím willing to take a newbie as long as you have some lead belaying experience.

Iím planning on driving up Thursday night and will be in town until Saturday night. We can work out travel.

Check my profile for any additional info.

Thanks!
Patrick


kimmyt


Jun 23, 2005, 10:46 AM
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X


pjcozzi


Jun 23, 2005, 1:03 PM
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Need a partner for climbing at the Gunks Saturday, 25 & Sunday 26 June.
K.

Sent you a PM. Saturday might work.

Patrick


all_that_is_rock


Jun 23, 2005, 5:31 PM
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hey feedmerocks, I heard you gave Jeff a run for his money. Did he talk your ear off about his "warriors way" :wink: :lol: all in fun Jeff, all in fun.


kimmyt


Jun 23, 2005, 5:34 PM
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Still need a partner Sunday the 26th. Come on, help a gal out...


feedmerocks


Jun 24, 2005, 10:49 AM
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hey feedmerocks, I heard you gave Jeff a run for his money. Did he talk your ear off about his "warriors way" :wink: :lol: all in fun Jeff, all in fun.

No, he was tactful and didn't mention it at all! :shock:

Looks like this weekend is going to be a scorcher. I'll bet even the swimming hole will be warm around noon.


feedmerocks


Jun 24, 2005, 10:51 AM
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I'm stoked to be going to the Gunks this weekend!! I plan to torture myself by leading all the easy climbs I can get on. I need to get a lot of mileage on the sharp end so I can stop being a pansy and start upping the ante!! :)

How did your weekend go? Sorry I wasn't able to be more definite about partnering. Things are hectic lately.


all_that_is_rock


Jun 24, 2005, 2:09 PM
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lookin' for partner for saturday the 25th, any takers


climbingbetty22


Jun 24, 2005, 2:29 PM
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Feedmerocks...going down this week. As soon as the partner drops by, I'm outty.

all_that_is_rock, if you're in a bind, you can always join me and my partner. I'll send you a PM with my digits.


climbingbetty22


Jun 27, 2005, 4:41 AM
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WoW! I just got back from the most stellar weekend in the Gunks!!!! I had soooo much fun! Did some climbing too! :D

Dirt Dangler was christened (he's not into hero worship, but...), I managed to make a 5.5 into an aid climb and the benevelont Reverend Doobie and crew made sure that beer and whiskey were copious.

Thanks so much to Charlie, Jeff and the D&C crew for such an awesome weekend! Charlie- I hope you're still talking about your ascent of MF with a bikini-bearing belayer! :wink:


climbingbetty22


Jun 27, 2005, 10:04 AM
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Oh yeah, by the way, did anyone else hear that loud-ass crash of thunder just before 3PM on Sunday? Anyway else think it was the rock? I swear i heard that and it did not sound like thunder! I thought the whole damn cliff was coming down on my head! I tried to take off running, but given I was wearing flip-flops I only succeeded in falling down the hill and getting a nasty, stingy case of rock rash on my calf and thigh.


all_that_is_rock


Jun 27, 2005, 10:27 AM
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did anyone else hear that loud-ass crash of thunder just before 3PM on Sunday? Anyway else think it was the rock? I swear
yep, I thought I was about to meet my maker


climbingbetty22


Jun 27, 2005, 1:23 PM
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In reply to:
did anyone else hear that loud-ass crash of thunder just before 3PM on Sunday? Anyway else think it was the rock? I swear
yep, I thought I was about to meet my maker

Dork! :D I was with you when it happened! I know you heard it and thought the cliff was falling down!


shakylegs


Jun 27, 2005, 1:49 PM
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Rolled into Camp Slime late Thursday night, to find it completely empty. Excellent. Grabbed the best spots, woke up to find a few more folks had arrived overnight.
Spent Friday belaying my partner, who's slowly getting his lead head back, on Horseman and Maria (gawd, I love that third pitch).
Saturday, we headed over to Drunkard's Delight. I started up, and nearly greased off the opening crux. That was kinda scary. Set up a belay under the roof and, as my partner was climbing up, witnessed a woman take a tumble off Bloody Mary. Seems she was trying to downclimb after finding the route too difficult, but hadn't properly tied her knot, so when she weighted it it came undone. Folks were pretty good in coming to her aid. I then started up the second pitch, pulling the roof, and was getting absolutely no slack from my partner, or so it seemed. What happened, unfortunately, was that one of my double ropes got stuck on the gear on my harness, so it just wasn't feeding. Pulled the roof, got a good stance, unwrapped the rope and finished the climb.
Lost a couple of quarts of sweat during the climb, it was so hot. My partner led Frog's Head after that, but it was so bloody hot out that we called it a day after that.
Woke up Sunday to major dehydration cramps, so we decided to head back home. Man, I can so not deal with heat.


freeskicolorado


Jun 27, 2005, 3:40 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
did anyone else hear that loud-ass crash of thunder just before 3PM on Sunday? Anyway else think it was the rock? I swear
yep, I thought I was about to meet my maker

Yep, me too.

Though I was also with both of you at the time, so apparently we're the only ones who got scared by a little lightning?

Yoco


climbingbetty22


Jun 27, 2005, 4:54 PM
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YoCO! What's up! Nice to see you posting up instead of lurking like usual :D

How was your nap at work today? :roll:


kimmyt


Jun 27, 2005, 5:34 PM
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Rolled into Camp Slime late Thursday night, to find it completely empty. Excellent. Grabbed the best spots, woke up to find a few more folks had arrived overnight.
Spent Friday belaying my partner, who's slowly getting his lead head back, on Horseman and Maria (gawd, I love that third pitch).
Saturday, we headed over to Drunkard's Delight. I started up, and nearly greased off the opening crux. That was kinda scary. Set up a belay under the roof and, as my partner was climbing up, witnessed a woman take a tumble off Bloody Mary. Seems she was trying to downclimb after finding the route too difficult, but hadn't properly tied her knot, so when she weighted it it came undone. Folks were pretty good in coming to her aid. I then started up the second pitch, pulling the roof, and was getting absolutely no slack from my partner, or so it seemed. What happened, unfortunately, was that one of my double ropes got stuck on the gear on my harness, so it just wasn't feeding. Pulled the roof, got a good stance, unwrapped the rope and finished the climb.
Lost a couple of quarts of sweat during the climb, it was so hot. My partner led Frog's Head after that, but it was so bloody hot out that we called it a day after that.
Woke up Sunday to major dehydration cramps, so we decided to head back home. Man, I can so not deal with heat.

Yeah, it was definitely some hot on Saturday. I did two routes and then was pretty much done for.

Oh, hmm...feedmerocks, did you by any chance lose a piece of gear under Strictley? I found one and I think you and Ryan were the last ones on the route. If you let me know what it is I'll return it to you next time I'm up there.

K.


freeskicolorado


Jun 27, 2005, 5:36 PM
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But I'm so much better at lurking.... it suits my engineerish lack of social skills so well :D

Yeah, I'm hoping my boss didn't walk by me today, because I spent at least 4 hours staring blankly into space. At least I was able to keep myself awake during a meeting this morning by reliving some of the moves on Birdland and Mother's Day Party in my head.

Do you want to support the "Give a Sport Climber Some Nuts" fund?


all_that_is_rock


Jun 27, 2005, 10:19 PM
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I prefer the "get myself drunk" fund, but thanks for asking.


Partner wormly81


Jun 28, 2005, 5:41 AM
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Oh yeah, by the way, did anyone else hear that loud-ass crash of thunder just before 3PM on Sunday? Anyway else think it was the rock? I swear i heard that and it did not sound like thunder! I thought the whole damn cliff was coming down on my head! I tried to take off running, but given I was wearing flip-flops I only succeeded in falling down the hill and getting a nasty, stingy case of rock rash on my calf and thigh.

Oh that is precious! After doing some trail work with the legends crew I headed down to the deli to rehydrate. The thunder crash caught me off guard and I almost poured my beer down my shirt (almost, I simply refuse to abuse alcohol :) )

After the beer I headed down to split rock for the first time; what a blast. There were a ton of people there but it was a festive atmosphere and it was a great way to cool down.

Jeff


climbingbetty22


Jun 28, 2005, 9:59 AM
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YoCo- I thought you already had a set of nuts? If you're going to pull the Sally Sruthers routine, at least ask for some cams!!!

Dirt Dangler-the ultimate dirty tradster, replete with the drinking problem. :wink: I now know that 3 measely bottles of Guinness is more of an insult then a contribution to the "Get Charlie drunk fund." (Granted, I did contribute to other funds like the "Feed Carlie Fund" and the "Take Charlie swimming so he can shower/do laundry fund" and I think there may have been one or two more I contributed to as well....:wink:). Next time I want to climb with you, I know to bring whiskey. Can you handle a little Maker's Mark or are you partial to the Knob?

And wormly- thank God you didn't spill that beer! You would have had to go to the klink for alcohol abuse for sure!


lockeyaaron


Jun 28, 2005, 10:58 AM
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We were at the lake when it was storming and thought that the thunder sounded like something other than what it was too. People were staring when Chris, Giz, and I started running from the "incoming fire".

Dirt and Betty, thanks for the great company and for helping us finish the cooler every night. Hope we weren't too much for you guys, and we all hope to see you next time. We are going to be back down there the weekend of the 8th. Maybe we can do HE friday night the right way!!!! You guys all know where to find us. And if you dont just listen for the very loud arguments at 2 am, thats us.

Peace, Rev. Doobs


all_that_is_rock


Jun 28, 2005, 1:36 PM
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to climb with you, I know to bring whiskey. Can you handle a little Maker's Mark or are you partial to the Knob?
if it's whiskey I will drink it, if it's wet.......um....you get the idea.


ryanv


Jun 28, 2005, 2:39 PM
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Yeah, it was definitely some hot on Saturday. I did two routes and then was pretty much done for.

Oh, hmm...feedmerocks, did you by any chance lose a piece of gear under Strictley? I found one and I think you and Ryan were the last ones on the route. If you let me know what it is I'll return it to you next time I'm up there.

K.

After Strictly we couldn't take the heat anymore either. We went to split rock and went swimming then headed back to the Nears for a route around 4:30-5:00. It was an effective plan for dealing with the heat and i would recommend it for all the future hot days coming up.

On another note, I am looking for a partner for this sat. July 2. Any takers?


climbingbetty22


Jun 28, 2005, 2:51 PM
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We were at the lake when it was storming and thought that the thunder sounded like something other than what it was too. People were staring when Chris, Giz, and I started running from the "incoming fire".

Dirt and Betty, thanks for the great company and for helping us finish the cooler every night. Hope we weren't too much for you guys, and we all hope to see you next time. We are going to be back down there the weekend of the 8th. Maybe we can do HE friday night the right way!!!! You guys all know where to find us. And if you dont just listen for the very loud arguments at 2 am, thats us.

Peace, Rev. Doobs

Doobs, I was so already planning on being there that weekend!!! I'll definitely have to come over and hang with you guys. Had a blast. Too much for me? Hell no, I hope I wasn't too much for you!!! ;-)


lockeyaaron


Jun 29, 2005, 10:22 AM
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In reply to:
We were at the lake when it was storming and thought that the thunder sounded like something other than what it was too. People were staring when Chris, Giz, and I started running from the "incoming fire".

Dirt and Betty, thanks for the great company and for helping us finish the cooler every night. Hope we weren't too much for you guys, and we all hope to see you next time. We are going to be back down there the weekend of the 8th. Maybe we can do HE friday night the right way!!!! You guys all know where to find us. And if you dont just listen for the very loud arguments at 2 am, thats us.

Peace, Rev. Doobs

Doobs, I was so already planning on being there that weekend!!! I'll definitely have to come over and hang with you guys. Had a blast. Too much for me? Hell no, I hope I wasn't too much for you!!! ;-)

You definitly were not too much for us, I just hope that you werent too much for Dirt :wink:

We will definitly be down there the evening of the 8th so stop by if you are in town already. The whole crew will be down there that weekend along with the Gizmo and I's "crag dates". We will see you there. And yes Charlie, we will have beer and maybe a bottle for you again. See everyone next weekend.

Doobs


all_that_is_rock


Jun 29, 2005, 11:31 AM
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damnit. I will be unable to attend mass with the good reverand. I will be there in spirit.
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I just hope you wernt too much for Dirt :wink:
please son, take notes.


climbingbetty22


Jun 29, 2005, 1:21 PM
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Doob-
You and Giz are bringing the crag dates? Hope that doesn't interfere with your climbing. At least you won't have to be on your damn cell phones with them ALL THE TIME!
Unfortunately, I don't think the illsutratious Dirt Dangler will be in attendance that weekend.....

Speaking of whom-- Dirt before you start telling Doob to take some notes...you should take some of your own! Then you should fill Chris in because I think he needs the help too! hehehe :P


all_that_is_rock


Jun 29, 2005, 2:16 PM
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