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Partner taino


May 19, 2005, 6:50 AM
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Damned straight.

That, and many of the Gunks climbers don't generally post on this site - they post on Gunks.com. *shrug*

T


grinspoon


May 19, 2005, 6:57 AM
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Alright, I'll post up.
Last sunday I hit up the Dihedrals and climbed some routes on the upper tier that hadn't been climbed in years. There's a really cool chimney that has good pro.
This weekend, Keene Valley! I haven't been there since October to climb the Trap Dike. Way too long...


shakylegs


May 19, 2005, 7:08 AM
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grinspoon, could you report back afterward to give us the heads up on the bug situation? Thanks.


jackflash


May 19, 2005, 7:32 AM
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In reply to:
Alright, I'll post up.
Last sunday I hit up the Dihedrals and climbed some routes on the upper tier that hadn't been climbed in years. There's a really cool chimney that has good pro.

Is that the one near the right end of the Tier or the middle. A few weeks ago I did Risque Shift, which turns the roof instead of heading into the squeeze chimney from the handcrack both routes share. A very nice route. I need to do more of the routes up there, especially since its the only place where you can pretend the cliffs weren't devestated by chainsaw-happy rail crews.


all_that_is_rock


May 19, 2005, 11:39 AM
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grinspoon, could you report back afterward to give us the heads up on the bug situation? Thanks.
GO SOON. it is still fairly chilly. I just got back and plan on going again tommorow (friday). myself and jeff (wormly81) went this last week and didnt see one black fly. we hiked into wall face but got rained out on the third pitch :evil: :evil: :evil: we ended up climbing in keene vally on some scary 5.6 with anchore to anchore runouts. it was easy climbing but a 50 meter runout with falls that wouldnt be clean can really get the pulse going.


Partner wormly81


May 19, 2005, 4:42 PM
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As Charlie said, the bugs are not a problem yet in the High Peaks and other Northern areas of the park. Its still a touch cold but that shouldn't deter anyone whose motivated from climbing.

The Chapel Pond slabs are a really good time. Expect a low angle friction-fest; the moves are all very straightforward but way above your gear (seriously). I would recommend the regular route for anybody who is interested in challenging their high-angle gunks jugfest paradigm (its also supposed to have the best pro on the slabs). The Empress has some very interesting terrain, just choose a line that takes you to the prominant offwidth.

I am constantly being impressed by the park. What a place.

Jeff


shakylegs


May 20, 2005, 8:59 AM
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were you climbing on the left side of the slab? Near Greensleeves? Because, yeah, the gear is kinda sparse there.
Jewels and Gems, across the street, is a sweet little, non-populated crag.


all_that_is_rock


May 20, 2005, 9:13 AM
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yeah shakeylegs, I think we started on greensleves and trended left twards the offwidth on emperess


Partner wormly81


May 20, 2005, 9:27 AM
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I don't think that would be correct Charlie.

From what I've been able to find out, Greensleeves is a variation of Empress that starts at the birch ledge belay (below the off-sized crack) and traverses right to a corner system that takes good gear.

I still havnt been able to find out what climb we started on; it was the nice crack 30 feet right of where the regular route starts (i think).

Jeff


Partner wormly81


May 21, 2005, 6:04 PM
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So it looks like rain all week. Anyone thinking about traveling to drier rock?

Jeff


all_that_is_rock


May 22, 2005, 4:23 PM
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ha ha, yall suckers that listened to he weather man got jiped out of two buitifull days (at least in the AM) at the gunks. but the high E area was a mobscene. I went over there to do modern times and in the 10 min it took me to eat a powerbar, smoke a smoke, and rack up i got a (uncalled) rope droped on me and hit with a rock in the back. the same party guilty of these two offences droped a trad draw from halfway up that just missed me. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:


Partner happiegrrrl


May 22, 2005, 4:41 PM
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I didn't listen to the weather report either, and just got back from Peterskill. Got my first NY lead in today, on Cornflake.

So funny - last year a guide was telling me that, for my first lead I should try a climb well within my ability, that I had follewed several times and had wired. And I thought "I'll be damned if I am leading Cornflake for my first lead!" I wanted something more "adventurous."(which I did get....my first lead was a 5.5 climb on wet, dirty rock, at dusk into darkness, that had been climbed by only a few people before hand.....)

I was remembering the flake on that climb to be practically as wide as a Gone With The wind staircase(yes, I exagerate.....). But today, when my partenr asked if I wanted to lead something, suddenly Cornflake seemed like exactly what I wanted to have.

It was funny - I went up to it and thought "Now THAT can't be Cornflake! Look at how miniscule that flake is!" hahahah

Anyway, I think I did okay. I kept in mind how theplacements would protect me if I came off and even if a piece pulled, something I didn't think about on my previous two leads, and when I had one spot where I wasn't finding a placement, and had the idea to just run it out, telling myself I wouldn't fall off, my inner voice said "Well, probably not. But you don't place gear thinking you will come off; it's in caseyou do." So, I looked a bit harder and got a pleacement.

The rain started up just as I was setting up the belay, so it was a short day for us, but I was really very pleased.

I also got the new Dick Williams guidebook. And the history he detailed is quite interesting! I have some ideas I want to post about what I read later on.......


climbingbetty22


May 22, 2005, 5:20 PM
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I just got back from a great weekend at the Gunks too. My first time there!! I was very thankful that the weather forecast predicted rain because it seemed that it kept most of the crowds away.

I got to a great easy lead on Bunny, then we did Horseman (no waiting!!) Classic and Pink Laurel before the rain came in. It was definitely a great way to spend my birthday. Thanks so much to cracklover and misfit4life who gave me so much beta and showed a couple of Gunks noobies around!!


seek7


May 22, 2005, 6:44 PM
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How did you and your friends find pink laurel?


grinspoon


May 22, 2005, 8:19 PM
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Jackflash wrote:
In reply to:
Is that the one near the right end of the Tier or the middle. A few weeks ago I did Risque Shift, which turns the roof instead of heading into the squeeze chimney from the handcrack both routes share.

The chimney is in the middle of the upper tier cliff. I was going to lead Risque Shift, but the chimney really caught my eye. I'll try it next time.

I just got back from Keene Valley. No bugs, the weather was fine on saturday, we hit up Pitchoff and the Tanager Face. The weather was awful on sunday and it was chilly both nights.


Partner wormly81


May 22, 2005, 8:41 PM
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I just got back from Keene Valley. No bugs, the weather was fine on saturday, we hit up Pitchoff and the Tanager Face. The weather was awful on sunday and it was chilly both nights.

Where exactly is the Tanager Face? Is it the rock with two bolted anchors right on the far south corner of the pond?

Jeff


grinspoon


May 22, 2005, 8:51 PM
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wormly81 wrote:
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Where exactly is the Tanager Face? Is it the rock with two bolted anchors right on the far south corner of the pond?

Yeah..that's it, on the southside of the pond head into the gully, turn right and head uphill at the carin. By bolted anchors I'm going to assume you mean the face climb with 2 bolts for pro.


Partner wormly81


May 22, 2005, 8:59 PM
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In reply to:
wormly81 wrote:
In reply to:
Where exactly is the Tanager Face? Is it the rock with two bolted anchors right on the far south corner of the pond?

Yeah..that's it, on the southside of the pond head into the gully, turn right and head uphill at the carin. By bolted anchors I'm going to assume you mean the face climb with 2 bolts for pro.

I believe we are talking about the same place. The two bolts protect the face of the climb after it moves out of the dihedral/corner?

I was on the climb just to the right there maybe 5.4 or so with some wandering protection. It was really nice to climb right on the lake... even got a few waves from the guys fishing and whatnot.

Must get back to the park....

Jeff


Partner taino


May 23, 2005, 6:35 AM
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No climbing for me this past weekend, but I can't say that it was a bad weekend; played soccer for the first time in 18 years on Friday, scored two goals and had one assist. Went to a MLS soccer game at Giant Stadium on Saturday, and screamed myself hoarse (still can't talk, today). Spent Sunday recovering, and am still recovering today.

Hope to get up to the Gunks this coming weekend, if it doesn't rain. :evil:

Congrats on the lead, Terrie!

T


Partner cracklover


May 23, 2005, 8:38 AM
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In reply to:
Thanks so much to cracklover and misfit4life who gave me so much beta and showed a couple of Gunks noobies around!!

You're very welcome! I had a blast!

In reply to:
How did you and your friends find pink laurel?

Here's my perspective, as the leader on the climb: I enjoyed it. I found the first pitch to have two distinct cruxes - one down pretty low, and another about halfway up (getting out of one of the bombay chimneys).

The guidebook suggests that you walk over to the tree at the end of the first pitch, and then walk back to do the second pitch, but to get your full money's worth, I'd suggest belaying right where pitch one ends (and where pitch 2 begins). There's plenty of gear there to make an anchor, you'll save the tree from an earlier demise, and even though you've got a pretty comfy ledge to belay from, the exposure is, well, quite noticable!

There's only one or two real chimney moves, but if you're comfortable in chimneys, you'll feel much more comfortable placing gear from a restful stance.

Also, the second pitch, while looking extremely intimidating, is pretty easy.

Oh, and I found the climb to be one of the easiest 5.9s I've led at the Gunks.

And climbingbetty22 and Carter* were fine partners. Carter did not have much multi-pitch experience, but he learned fast! And climbingbetty22 was knowledgeable and just fun to have around. And she's got a great rack!

GO

*Edited to fix Carter's name (don't know his tag here on the board).


climbingbetty22


May 23, 2005, 9:15 AM
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And climbingbetty22 and misfit4life were fine partners. misfit4life hasn't had a ton of multi-pitch experience, but he learned fast! And climbingbetty22 was knowledgeable and just fun to have around. And she's got a great rack!

GO

Aww.. thanks Gabe! I couldn't ask for a better compliment!!!

Just as an aside...Carter isn't misfit4lf... :oops:

You didn't get to see carter on his first trad lead on Sunday on a little 5.4 called Short Job...in the rain on wet rock nonetheless!!! He climbed it in fine style and looked really comfy on it!


edge


May 23, 2005, 9:20 AM
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Greetings, NY climbers! I am glad you got your own thread up and rolling. If this turns out anything like the Mass or PA climbers thread, well, umm, maybe we shouldn't wish that on you guys yet... :wink:

Anyway, now that your thread has achieved official "(insert state name here) Climbers Thread" status, we need to follow suite and stop it from echoing to the front page. It will remain sticky, so you will always know where to find it.

Cheers,
Loran


ikefromla


May 23, 2005, 9:23 AM
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Saturday was a gorgeous day for those of us who stuck to the boulders as well. It ended up being a day of working problems and not sending anything new, but nothin wrong with that. I'm headed up for the long weekend as well if anyone is interested in joinin me.


Partner cracklover


May 23, 2005, 1:52 PM
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In reply to:
Just as an aside...Carter isn't misfit4lf... :oops:

Oops! Thanks for the correction.

In reply to:
You didn't get to see carter on his first trad lead on Sunday on a little 5.4 called Short Job...in the rain on wet rock nonetheless!!! He climbed it in fine style and looked really comfy on it!

Good for him!

GO


grinspoon


May 23, 2005, 6:07 PM
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wormly81 wrote:
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It was really nice to climb right on the lake...

Naw, can't be it then. This face is much higher up from the pond. I think the pond was barely visable.
In reply to:
Must get back to the park....

Amen brother! Gunks...pfffttt....

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