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all_that_is_rock


May 23, 2005, 6:10 PM
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grinspoon wrote "Gunks...pfffttt...." watch it little man. :wink:


shakylegs


May 24, 2005, 8:06 AM
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I just got back from Keene Valley. No bugs, the weather was fine on saturday, we hit up Pitchoff and the Tanager Face. The weather was awful on sunday and it was chilly both nights.

What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell?


Partner taino


May 24, 2005, 8:34 AM
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Amen brother! Gunks...pfffttt....

BLAM!

Damn, missed. Hate them tourists...

T :wink:


all_that_is_rock


May 24, 2005, 10:18 AM
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hey tai, grinspoon is just jelous that studs like you and I get all riped from all the roof climbing in the gunks :wink:


all_that_is_rock


May 24, 2005, 10:19 AM
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edited because I hate when it double posts


grinspoon


May 24, 2005, 9:14 PM
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shakylegs wrote:
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What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell?

Yep, my first multi-pitch lead. We slept at the base of the warm-up wall below it and a party still beat us to it. I told my buddies I heard doors slam and voices...they continued to sleep.

I have a confession, even though I've only done a couple single pitch climbs there (but bouldered alot) I think the Gunks are kinda ghey. For me, the Dacks and Gunks are the same distance. I rather go to the Dacks because the atmosphere is just so much better/diverse there. OK..bring it on mofos! I wanna hear it...


Partner happiegrrrl


May 25, 2005, 5:35 AM
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I have got to start getting to the Daks this season, even if they are twice the distance from my home as the Gunks are. I love the Gunks, but I have to admit - the idea of getting into areas where I don't see and hear others all day long is incredible. I have a friend who took me to an area like this down in Georgia and the sense of isolation makes for an entirely different experience.


shakylegs


May 25, 2005, 6:42 AM
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shakylegs wrote:
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What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell?

Yep, my first multi-pitch lead. We slept at the base of the warm-up wall below it and a party still beat us to it. I told my buddies I heard doors slam and voices...they continued to sleep.

Isn't the start of the 3rd pitch absolutely wild? Plug in a cam as high as you can, and then just lay back that crack as fast as you.
And traversing under that tiny roof on the second pitch; yummy. It's such a great route.


Partner cracklover


May 25, 2005, 8:27 AM
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I have a confession, even though I've only done a couple single pitch climbs there (but bouldered alot) I think the Gunks are kinda ghey. For me, the Dacks and Gunks are the same distance. I rather go to the Dacks because the atmosphere is just so much better/diverse there. OK..bring it on mofos! I wanna hear it...

I agree, bouldering at the Gunks is "kinda ghey". So is doing all single pitch stuff there. By the way, if you walk down past all the popular climbs, or if you go there during the week, no crowds.

And I'd love to get up to the Dacks!

GO


Partner taino


May 25, 2005, 9:04 AM
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shakylegs wrote:
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What did you did on Pitchoff? Pete's Farewell?

Yep, my first multi-pitch lead. We slept at the base of the warm-up wall below it and a party still beat us to it. I told my buddies I heard doors slam and voices...they continued to sleep.

I have a confession, even though I've only done a couple single pitch climbs there (but bouldered alot) I think the Gunks are kinda ghey. For me, the Dacks and Gunks are the same distance. I rather go to the Dacks because the atmosphere is just so much better/diverse there. OK..bring it on mofos! I wanna hear it...

As Gabe said, you're right - bouldering and climbing single-pitch at the Gunks is rather ghey. However, no big deal that you don't like to go there. It's one less climber that gets in the way. :)

T


Partner taino


May 25, 2005, 9:12 AM
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hey tai, grinspoon is just jelous that studs like you and I get all riped from all the roof climbing in the gunks :wink:

Charlie, true story:

I was at Red Rocks Rendevouz, and taking a technique class with some famous person; my GF and I went to climb what he'd set up, and he asked us where we climb... When he heard "The Gunks!", he said that all of the Gunks climbers he knew were hideously strong from having to pull through all the roofs.

I guess there's some truth to it. :twisted:

T


shakylegs


May 25, 2005, 9:32 AM
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In reply to:
true story:

I was at Red Rocks Rendevouz, and taking a technique class with some famous person; my GF and I went to climb what he'd set up, and he asked us where we climb... When he heard "The Gunks!", he said that all of the Gunks climbers he knew were hideously strong from having to pull through all the roofs.

I guess there's some truth to it. :twisted:

T

So, I guess you didn't mention your little epic on Shockley's, right?


all_that_is_rock


May 25, 2005, 5:10 PM
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AWWW SHIT! shakey legs is callin tai out :lol: I musta missed this story, lets hear it........ to grinspoon: yeah the daks are fun, and a tad less crouded than the gunks. but I do like the climbing, and rock in the gunks better, you just have to know where to be on what days to avoid the crowds.


all_that_is_rock


May 25, 2005, 5:11 PM
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and I live 10 min away so im kinda partial. you know that whole "my crags dick is bigger than your crags dick" thing. :wink:


gunked


May 28, 2005, 5:44 AM
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... rock in the gunks better, you just have to know where to be on what days to avoid the crowds.

Amen to that! If you want to get away from the crowds, you just gotta be willing to hike. There's rock everywhere around here!

Happiegirrrl, you listenin'?

Did anybody get nailed bad by that thunderstorm yesterday? We were just packing up when it came in. On the way back to town, there were 2 or 3 emergency vehicles heading towards the cliffs. Just hoping everybody's okay (thrown in with a bit of curiousity :roll: )

It's a beautiful day today! Get out and climb!

-Jason :D


Partner happiegrrrl


May 30, 2005, 8:13 AM
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I am definitely "willing to hike".... especially if that means getting to places that aren't on the map. I'm still too new to go out in search of these things on my own at this point, except as recon for future reference, plus....I don't have a car yet, and just got my learner's permit(I let my damned license expire - helpful hint: NEVER let this happen to you.....I have to actually take the stupid behind the wheel lessons now. And, cannot schedule the road test until this is complete, and the wait for a test is something like 10 weeks!!!!!).

But I definitely am interested. I am willing to belay slave for safe people working on new things in exchange for their experience in this type of thing - I have held rope for another for hours and hours on end, and not on a gri gri, either. I am pretty sure the person would be happy to give reference on my ability to stay focused and aware and be a safe partner.

Anyway - I had to work yesterday and have to today. But I got out on Saturday, and seconded for Tradrenn(a Cannuck down here on his Gunks maiden voyage). I followed him up Minty and the first two pitches of Hawk(which has been downgraded from 5.5- to 5.4, if anyone's interested in knowing). Hawk, I would think, is not a climb for a 5.4 leader to be going at! GOD - was it FUN, though!

The it started to rain....grrrrr. But by the time we were on the ground - the rain had stopped! double grrrrrrr..... So, we went looking for someting else to do just the first pitch, and started on Oscar's Variation. I was fairly certain I would not be able to make it up that one, but was willing to try. It started to rain again as my partner was leading up, and I let him know that I understood if he preferred to do the cleaning on his way down instead of sitting up there getting wet and chilled while belaying me as I flailed up the climb.

I did get the opening move in and then it started to come down..... For myself, I was proud that I exectued that move in one shot . It wasn't so easy for me(Sometimes I have commitment issues....).


Partner happiegrrrl


May 30, 2005, 8:16 AM
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Oh yeah - I am pretty certain I can get out on this coming Friday, if anyone is interested. Only caveat is that I have to get back to the city in the evening, so need to try for the 4:55pm return bus.


dirtineye


May 30, 2005, 9:37 AM
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But I definitely am interested. I am willing to belay slave for safe people working on new things in exchange for their experience in this type of thing - I have held rope for another for hours and hours on end, and not on a gri gri, either. I am pretty sure the person would be happy to give reference on my ability to stay focused and aware and be a safe partner.

She's a good belayer. Has held unexpected falls like a champ, pays attention, really is a pretty fine belayer all around.

Will not complain even after hours of little progress, dodging rocks, vines and dirt all the while.

Cleans gear well, places gear well, likes to be safe-- unlikely to do anything stupid.

Will do trailwork on demand! (I said unlikely, not impossible)

can recognize poison ivy and avoid it, hehe.

IF you build a little fire under her, she can actually climb a lot harder than she claims.

Has good sense of humor for a damned yankee.

Just don't offer her bar-b-qued dog for lunch and everything will be OK.

Take this girl climbing.


all_that_is_rock


May 30, 2005, 8:26 PM
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hey gunked I was there in the rain. I saw someone take a big whipper on modern times as i was leaving. they got the rope behind there leg and swung quite a ways into a slab. they were moving around and talking to thier belayer as I was walking away but that might have been the reason for the ambulances. I also saw those and was wondering if it was the guy on modern times. anyone else know what happend if anything?????


grinspoon


Jun 1, 2005, 11:30 AM
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y0 m0f0s,
I was at the dihedrals last weekend and found some gear, lemme know if it belongs to you


pjcozzi


Jun 3, 2005, 7:47 AM
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Hey NY climbers,

Iím looking for some beta on Horseman at the Gunks. Iíve heard itís a ďsoftĒ 5.5 but it looks pretty steep to me. Iíve lead Jackie and Dennis without any (major) problems and was wondering how Horseman stacked up. Does it require a lot of crack technique?

Iíll be taking a 3-4 day trip up to there soon so I wanted to plan my adventures in advance.

Thanks a lot,
Patrick


Partner taino


Jun 3, 2005, 8:07 AM
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Patrick,

Lead it.

T


Partner nostalgia


Jun 3, 2005, 8:16 AM
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I should be able to (finally) get out to da Gunks on Jun11. Anyone need a partner? Here's my classified ad:

MWM seeks partner for Gunks climbing.
Will gladly second up to 5.8 or top rope.
Not into kinky stuff, likes to keep ropes straight.
Knows how to place passive pro and build TR anchors.
Self sufficient, no whining, always ready to learn.
Likes moonlit walks on the beach.
Will buy leader beer after climbing :)

-Joe


Partner taino


Jun 3, 2005, 9:12 AM
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Bloody hell, Joe - you would pick that weekend.

Drop me a line; I might have a lead for you.

T


pjcozzi


Jun 3, 2005, 10:14 AM
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Patrick,

Lead it.

T

Thanks for the vote of confidence. As long as the weather is ok, Iíll be at the gunks Thursday thru Sunday (9th Ė 12th). Iíll probably see you there.

Patrick

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