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passthepitonspete
Jul 11, 2002, 10:57 PM
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Five or ten years ago, it was very rare for people to solo big walls. Big wall soloing was left in the hands of the experts, who for the most part were few and far between.
I believe the primary reason for this was because of the lack of published information on big wall soloing. What information existed was for the most part useless.
All of that changed when Chongo published his Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing in 1997. Suddenly here was a text that told you everything you needed to know!
I believe Chongo's book is responsible, more than anything else, for the great resurgence of solo big wall climbing.
Nowadays, climbers are of the attitude that climbing big walls solo is an acceptable and desirable practice. No longer is it the realm of the expert - even condo-dwelling life insurance agents can solo big walls, and live to tell the tale.
For the most part.
Soloing a big wall is still hard, and takes balls (or ovaries!), but a lot more people are doing it.
Nowadays, there is another source of solo big wall tips, and you get it right here in the aid climbing forum of RC.com, for free it pains me to say.
I would be overjoyed to hear from those who have successfully put my big wall tips to use. This will provide me with further motivation during those moments when I think, what the hell am I doing spending so much time writing here?
I would very much like to call upon those people on this website who have successfully soloed a big wall of Grade V or harder. Especially if you have managed to put some of my ideas to use!
Tell me which of my ideas you liked, and which ones you didn't.
When I was last in Yosemite, I must have met thirty people who read my stuff, but have never signed onto the website as legit users. If any of them are reading this, I would encourage them to sign on and tell us about yourselves.
Dr. Piton would be delighted to get to know as many of his "wall patients" as he can!
In this thread, Big Wall Theorists, Wannabes, and those who have bailed need not apply, for you are a dime a dozen.
Note: If you are one of the people I describe in the paragraph above, do not despair! We all started out that way. It is my fervent desire that you will one day be able to answer this thread. The reason I write all this stuff is to help people!
It sure ain't for the pay. [Note: this is changing...]
So this thread is for those climbers who have stood on the summit of a big wall, and climbed every inch of it themselves.
Big Wall Soloists, please sign in here, and please tell us what you've done.
Stand tall, stand proud - you've earned it.
Cheers,
Dr. Piton,
who wishes for all Big Wall Theorists to become Big Wall Soloists.
Edit: Oh my goodness, this is rare - a spelling mistake! It is totally counter-intuitive to me that "roll" would be spelled with two L's, but three dictionaries and one very smart luke can't be wrong. Damn and double damn, but like thanks to luke, eh?
All I can say is, "Look on my Works ye Mighty, and despair!"
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spike
Jul 11, 2002, 11:46 PM
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Hi Pete,
I solo'd my first big wall 07/02/02 - 07/05/02 West Face Leaning Tower, my 3rd big wall and first summit in Yosemite Valley. The information YOU provided in the Aid forum got me up the wall in style.
1. Cleaning --- 1 GriGri and 1 Ascender.
2. Load Release knots.
3. Far End Haul & butterfly knot.
4. FROG Tech. for jugging overhanging walls.
5. Adjustable FiFi & big cord to pull on.
6. Adjustable daisys.
7. Haul w/static rope - tail for lower out.
8. Attach adj. daisys to aiders w/locker.
9. Attention to details - make a list.
10. Keep an open MIND to new ideas.
BIG WALL SOLOIST - SPIKE
[ This Message was edited by: spike on 2002-07-11 16:49 ]
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wallhammer
Jul 12, 2002, 3:12 AM
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hey spike, sorry i forgot to congragulate you on that ascent. you rode your motorcycle there, no? had to be fun with your haulbag and rack. anyway good job, definitly something to take pride in, Len
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karlbaba
Jul 12, 2002, 11:49 PM
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I soloed my second grade V (Prow in 1981) and my second grade VI (Zodiac in 1982) there is a trip report at http://member.newsguy.com/~climbing/Zodiac%20Solo%201982.html
I had to invent my own systems because there wasn't any info available to me at the time. Since then, I mostly soloed free climbs since I wound up taking lots of friends up walls and later, guiding.
Now, I'm appreciating the innovations of others. The ex-girlfriend I did the Nose with would have loved it if I set the haul bag up with a load releasing munter on the Grey Bands traverse. (Story at http://member.newsguy.com/~climbing/El_Cap_with_the_Marmot.html
She cursed my named after that. Now I'm getting wiser, but still want to learn more.
I use solo techniques on walls that I'm not soloing. Besides an occaisional short-fix, I'll start soloing the next pitch when my partner is packing the haulbag or setting up camp.
I'm pretty lazy so I'll continue to sample Dr. Piton's methods and put them into practice.
Peace
Karl
[ This Message was edited by: karlbaba on 2002-07-12 16:53 ]
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cantwinifyoudontplay2003
Mar 5, 2003, 8:33 PM
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Was doing the nose solo many years back.....Ended up hooking up with some poor dude who was scared half to death, his partner did the I'm scared and going to quit climbing right now.. Said he was going to rap with or without him. So we linked up for a day only to get rained off.....We also bailed from 8 or 9 pitches up... But hey one thing that was working good for me was to leave the pig on a hook at the belay. Clip the haul line into something that would break away before it would pull you to your death and climb on.... When you rap down to clean you then can also haul the pig at the same time. Not bad eh ? Then you just jug up and all is good. I would like to think up something that the haul sack can just lift off of that might be a little better than a hook.. Any ideas???
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elcapbuzz
Mar 5, 2003, 9:36 PM
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Soloing IS dangerous!!!
(strike me from the list)
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rockprodigy
Mar 5, 2003, 11:09 PM
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How 'bout a fifi hook.
My first (and so far, only) solo was Moonlight Buttress in Zion back in 1999. I did it in 14 hours (Booya!) I thought that was pretty good for my first time.
I didn't use any of Pete's tips then, I just worked it out on my own. I can't really say I've used a lot of your tips because they cater more to the style of doing everything with the minimum possible amount of effort, rather than trying to go as fast as possible. Different strokes.... You do have good ideas, though, if you don't mind carrying a whole lot of sh1t and going real slow.
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rollingstone
Mar 12, 2003, 12:09 AM
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OK. I confess. I soloed Liberty Crack, on Liberty Bell Mtn. in the North Cascades the summer of 1975. My then-girlfriend, now-wife dropped me off at Washington Pass, and I hiked up and did the climb with one bivi, I think. In those days it was a big deal to climb it hammerless, and no one had tried yet to free climb the first pitch (to my knowledge.) I had fun fiddling with thin nut placements and even (gasp!) my first hook move! After I rapped off the mountain and hiked back around to the road, I hitched rides from there to Pullman, just in time for the first day of classes.
I don't think PTPP had started climbing yet...?? :P
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copperhead
Mar 12, 2003, 6:27 AM
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What a crock of Schist.
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kindredlion
Mar 12, 2003, 7:47 AM
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If only there was a way to deep fry beaver tails without bringing too much gear...
Kilaloe Sunrise mmmmmm... :wink:
Take Air All,
Adam
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joebuzz
Mar 12, 2003, 10:03 AM
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Well, I've been slacking on this for almost a month now, but... PTPP tells us that's an important part of soloing. Anyway, I soloed my first wall back in the first week of February. It was only The S. Face of Wash. Column, but I was pretty stoked nevertheless.
As far as using The Doctor's advice, I just went up and kind of beat my head against the rock for three days( non-consecutively), yet got it done anyway. I'll be back for something else in the near future, after a little more studying of Pete's word.
Buzz
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flamer
Mar 12, 2003, 4:06 PM
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Stroke...stroke..stroke.....ego.
josh
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passthepitonspete
Mar 12, 2003, 4:11 PM
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Beating your head against the rock, Joe, is actually a pretty good way of succeeding.
It comes down to, "keep on keepin' on, don't give up, and eventually you will reach the summit if you are merely stubborn enough."
Fundamental advice.
Works for me.
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freeclmr
Jul 28, 2003, 6:16 AM
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Well, I also spent three days on the SFWC 7/24-7/26/03. Nice route, Awesome roof. Enjoyable, non-strenuous climbing. But sucks for hauling to Dinner. It was pure HAULING HELL (and lugging WAY TOO MUCH food and water didn't help much either.....) Definately the crux of this whole climb is the haul on Pitch 3. I spent more time on this pitch than any other. But, like true true hardcore sick-o wall climber, I can't wait to put myself through hell again.........
Brian
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alpinestylist
Jul 28, 2003, 4:32 PM
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a kid named spaz told me a "better way" story about some guy almost decking hauling the first pitches of Aurora?
Troll Troll...stroke stroke.
I don't think that guy was soloing that time though.
I solo therefor I am? or maybe because I couldn't find a cute partner?
When there is only one sailor, everybody is the captain!
the one the only Chongo said that (I think)
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lambone
Jul 28, 2003, 5:15 PM
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I just soloed Zodiac a couple of weeks ago, but it had absolutley nothing to do with Chongo or anyone else....
The most usefull beta I got about soloing came from Mike Ousley and Minerals.
I did flag my ledge though, and have to say that it worked pretty well. You can see a photo in the Big Wall Gallery.
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passthepitonspete
Jul 28, 2003, 11:17 PM
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Congrats Brian! [and Lambone, whoever you are.... How about a HINT as to your identity?]
Here's the photo - pretty good shot of a flagged ledge and Catch Lines. Looks windy, though!
Note: Dr. P. recommends you buy a double ledge, rather than a single. It is not much more expensive, not much heavier, hugely more comfortable, and gives you the opportunity to invite a partner who doesn't own a ledge, which can be especially valuable if your prospective partner happens to be a hottie.....
P.S. You know what you have to do next, Brian, in order to join The Club.
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lambone
Jul 29, 2003, 5:00 AM
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Thanks Pete,
I own a BD double as well, but I prefer the single. It has plenty of room for me...all those alpine bivis broke me in good I guess...
Unfortunately my wife won't let me share the BD with any hotties though...
It was super windy, 10 minutes later thunder and lightning were rolling through. Luckily I was in the Grey Circle dry as a bone, and the cool breeze was a relief. The bags were trying to knock me off the wall though, and the ledge almost took my head off before I got it clipped to the line...
I got some good tips fom Pete's stuff as well, but it wasn't much different than stuff I had learned way before looking at this web site. Still, thanks for the good beta dude.
Matt
Ashland, Oregon
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justsendingits
Aug 11, 2003, 10:46 AM
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Richie C. in the HOUSE..........
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passthepitonspete
Aug 11, 2003, 1:32 PM
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Oh sure, leave us hanging, eh? Sheesh.
Cuz they didn't see your PM I just read! Wow! Rich has been tearing up the Valley! Lookin' forward to a few more details, mate!
Good work. You know what's next.....
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ricardol
Nov 19, 2003, 1:26 AM
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i went and soloed zodiac this past september
anywas -- it was a grand time --
-- ricardo
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bigfoot
Nov 19, 2003, 1:51 AM
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referring to yourself in the third person is ridiculous- when you step down off whatever pedestal you have put yourself onto, you'll realize your just like everyone else- it doesnt matter if you write for a magazine or not, when you strip away the societal baggage, you'll see we're all the same blood and guts.
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passthepitonspete
Nov 19, 2003, 12:42 PM
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Ridiculous indeed. Upon further thought, we have decided we will no longer refer to ourselves in the third person, but rather in the first person plural.
In reply to: "i went and soloed zodiac this past september because i wanted to post on this thread .. "
We are delighted indeed that this thread had our intended effect - inspiration - on at least one person, and this is very gratifying to us.
We are Dr. Piton,
and we are not amused.
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lambone
Nov 19, 2003, 5:16 PM
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Pete,
Your starting to sound like Smegal...let go of the Precious dude...
I think this thread is cool, not for ego-boosting "chestbeating" purposes, but because I think it's cool to know who fellow soloists are on this board.
The climbing community is relatively small, and the sub-sector of that community who solos big walls is even smaller...I think its cool to know who shares this crazy passion and commitment.
Personaly I dig being in the Valley, getting ready for a climb..resting or whatever, looking up at the one lonely dot on El Cap and saying hey that's my friend Pete, or ricardo...right on. Because even if we've never met and we disagree on the Better Way of doing things, I pretty much consider anyone who shares in these discussions to be my friend. Ok, thats my cheesy $.02...don't ask for change.
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rodeomountain
Nov 24, 2003, 2:02 PM
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Pete, I'm a BWT. I know in your beginning post you suggested BWTs not post, but I find it important to tell you that your writing has motivated me to make the attempt to join the "solo club". In the past few weeks I have been reading many of your post and have fount them very informational.
I have read "Big Walls" by John Long several times. I think it's a very good book, but after reading it I still had a lot of unanswered questions (with all your notes you should consider updating this book). I live in Texas so as you would think, there is pretty much nobody here that big walls or would even consider attempting to solo one, leaving to answer questions. Several people have told me I'm insane for even thinking about it.
I'm going to spend this winter getting a system wired, putting many of your recommended "Better Ways" to good use. With any luck I will be at Yosemite this Spring.
Thanks for taking the time to reply to us BWTs when we ask the dumbest of questions.
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pewf
Dec 2, 2003, 9:06 PM
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I used to, haven't been on a wall for a few years. In my opinion, the biggest reason for the increase in soloists is the popularity spike in big wall climbing that happened in the mid-late 90s. Not to discredit Chongo's work, (I know he put a lot of effort into his book) but I doubt that the majority of folks that aren't connected to the Valley community have heard of or read it.
Personally, I taught myself to aid climb by soloing short things, then taught a friend, and then we epic'd on the Leaning Tower. I can't remember really reading anything in order to learn how to solo... just picked stuff up from partners or trail and error.
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alikb
Dec 3, 2003, 12:07 AM
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Thought I'd jump on the bandwagon here.
This July I soloed WFLT over three days as my first wall. It wasn't actually planned as a solo but my partner (my Dad) bailed in the parking lot just before we started up the approach . So, after a quick re-packing of the Pig I started up the wall alone, not entirely knowing what I was doing mind you. For some reason all the soloing and big wall systems came to me quite easily and I was able to make it up with minimal clusterf***age in a leasurely three days. Unfortunately, since this was not planned as a solo, I hadn't read any of Pete's articles on solo aid, although having read some now I'll deffinetly be using a few of his techniques on future solos. I did however use the frog ascending system for jugging and this was a big help jugging all those overhanging pitches :D .
I'd also like to mention that WFLT is possibly the best first solo wall in the valley do to its low difficulty, shorter length, and, most importantly, super easy hauling. So any beginner wall climbers out there wanting to solo a wall, this might just be the wall for you.
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cire
Dec 3, 2003, 1:31 AM
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Never heard of the book your refering to. I have soloed a few wall routes. My first time in aiders or aid climbing was a solo climb of Zions "Space Shot". I don,t feel solo aid is any more difficult than having a belayer although you do work much harder. Aid solo is so much slower and more controlled than free solo. Most people solo probably because it is difficult to find a dude you want hang and suffer with on a route you both agree to do.
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alwaysforward
Dec 3, 2003, 1:45 AM
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Strokefest.
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elcapinyoazz
Dec 3, 2003, 8:49 AM
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Lame bunch of chestbeating clownpunchers...that's what this amounts to.
Chuck's book didn't have any real effect on the number of soloists. Most people have never even heard of it.
What you've got here is a bunch of self-congratulatory mental masturbation, all instigated by a guy (Peter Peter Pumpkin Eater) who:
1. Dropped his pin rack off the Sea and was essentially rescued by someone on the ground
2. Dropped his pig off Aurora because he's got too much going on in his systems to keep up with
3. Aids the Hollow Flake at a snail's pace thereby causing a traffic jam clusterfrig on the Salathe and causing the party they edged in front of when the routes merge (BD and Salathe) to have to bivy on some shite bivy because they were hauling so much unneccesary CRAP that they wouldn't share the ledge so they could spread out their huge cluster
4. Chestbeats about hard routes where he somehow missed leading the defining pitches. i.e. The A5 pitch on Reticent, the runout free pitch on JollyRoger.
5. Drops more stuff than a hippie in an acid lab
6. ....aww screw this, I;m wasting my time. Clueless gumbies like that kid he had nailing on C1 will continue to eat his crap up until they get enough miles under their belt to see through the BS.
Carry on wankers....
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rogueclimber
Dec 3, 2003, 9:41 AM
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In reply to: Lame bunch of chestbeating clownpunchers...that's what this amounts to. 1. Dropped his pin rack off the Sea and was essentially rescued by someone on the ground Carry on wankers....
Yeah, the sound of those pins fallen while leading the second pitch of South Seas made me think I had made a very serious mistake! (the sound is everywhere)
I was very releived to see my rack intact while looking across at pete scratching his head like WTF?
Chongos lines saved him cause we were able to shout to the deck and have his gear retrieved via Chongos lines. Huh ......chongos lines were also used on one of the hardest free areas of the route as well.
Yeah Pete, we heard ya saying "Grab Chongos line!" I almost spit beer through my nose! :lol: Hangin on the ledge with my Bro!
Hey Pete, your a cool jerk!
Gabe, the mutha fuquin rogue!
Beat It!!
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socalclimber
Dec 3, 2003, 12:00 PM
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In reply to: 6. ....aww screw this, I;m wasting my time. Clueless gumbies like that kid he had nailing on C1 will continue to eat his crap up until they get enough miles under their belt to see through the BS.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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jdub
Dec 12, 2003, 11:37 PM
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Dr. Piton - I soloed Lurking Fear this fall, just before you and others were on Aquarian (which was my 2nd choice, btw). It was totally awesome! I have also soloed Monkeyfinger and Touchstone in Zion, but most folks call those Grade IV's.
I read a BUNCH of your stuff here before I went, but didn't have time to get it together to put much to practice, although on several I SURE AS !!!***?/!!! WISH I HAD!! I did take your advice on using a static haul line, and the Petzl Pro-Traction, both of which worked great. I wish I had learned the load-release knot, and the far-end hauling thing. I don't think the hauling on LF is as bad as people say, although I did have to rap to unstick my bag two or three times (enough to make me want to learn a better way).
Since the last time I did El Cap was 1982, I also used your East Ledges descent description.
So thanks for putting all your advice up here. I for one plan to use more, as now I think I'm stuck on this soloing thing, and ain't gonna be able to shake it!
Cheers, J-Dub
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seldomseen
Dec 28, 2003, 3:15 AM
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Last time I checked Pete, Soloing a wall ment carrying ALL your gear to the base. It also ment carrying ALLyour gear off the summit. In case your missing the point, that means doing it all YOURSELF"soloing". So by that definition of soloing wall climbing, what name would you give yourself, "BIG WALL PANSY who can't do ALL the work."??
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pywiak
Dec 28, 2003, 3:59 AM
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Old Skool Valley Solo Tick List:
Leaning Tower West Face
Half Dome Regular NW Face
Misty Wall (1st solo ascent)
Tangerine Trip (1st solo ascent)
Horse Chute
Self-Rescue Learning Adventures:
The Prow (dropped aiders)
Electric Ladyland (heat exhaustion)
Dorn Direct (factor 2 fall & bad sprained ankle)
Advice:
Know your systems
Be fit
Want it
It's faster and easier with a partner
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bvb
Dec 30, 2003, 11:50 PM
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alan has a pattern in his posts of being either incredibly modest or outlandishly brash and knuckleheaded. in this case, it's the former.
if you want to know what it was to be a hard man -- and i'm talking the real fukiing thing here -- in the late 70's and early 80's, you'd do well to look up alan's write up on his solo of tangerine trip, entitled "taking the trip", published in climbing in 1981, i beleive. you'll also learn a little somthing about self rescue.
hats off, alan. job well done. to bad you've gone over to the dark side. sport climbing? no bouldering??? oy vey, oy vey......
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glockaroo
Dec 31, 2003, 3:39 PM
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In reply to: Advice: Know your systems Be fit Want it It's faster and easier with a partner
Fellas this is everything you need to know about aid soloing, distilled to its essence. It is apparent that Pywiak is a BTDT type, even without reading his profile.
Sometimes I think the main benefit of soloing is to make climbing with a partner feel so much easier. After a soloing phase, having a partner feels like a toprope.
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