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lagarita
Oct 27, 2006, 1:19 AM
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I haven't posted in a while, but I just had to spray a little. I just got back from Arizona and the weather was phenomenal. The climbs were out of this world, like nothing I've ever climbed. I met some great people; thank you some much Jodie and Mike for showing me Mars attacks. If any of you get out to the Phoenix area, get in touch with Mike. I can't say enough good things about Sedona. The spires were awesome, the exposure was breath taking. Good people...
Later,
Sean
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devkrev
Oct 28, 2006, 1:39 PM
Post #427 of 713
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In reply to: I haven't posted in a while, but I just had to spray a little....
oh come on, thats what this thread is FOR!!!
But anyway, Noseblob and devkrev headed to the gunks yesterday. devkrev loves the gunks, and was worried about Noseblob's last sub-ultimate experience there. DevKrev was going to document the whole experience with his trusty digi-cam, but alas, it wasn't meant to be.
See, the thing it that Devkrev can't take pictures for crap and not a single one he took was worth posting to this sit, for fear of ending up in the "Worst Photos" Thread. It would have made more sense for Noseblob, the ex-professional photographer to be taking the pictures but seeing things in retrospect always is more logical than the first time around...But enough about the pictures.
We started hiking down the carriage road after paying our money to the jerk at the gate(You'd think if you are collecting money from everyone you would be alot nicer eh?) And I had a route in my mind for the first of the day, but being the classic that it is, I figured it would have someone on it. But it didn't....
Jackie (5.5) this is probably my most favorite 5.5 at the Trapps. I have climbed it dozens of times, and I find it a good start for someone new at the gunks, because it really is sort of a "Gunks Sampler" of an easy route, It has the face moves, some friction, and super easy fun roofs.
After going over the intricacies of double rope management "Its like belaying with one rope, only you have two" and racking up, I started up. The pitch was fun, and leading the first of the day is always exciting in its own way. Soon I hit the bolts tied in and threw Noseblob on belay. He climbed the pitch no problem, I led up the second, and soon we were back on the ground.
We then hit Fingerlock or Cedarbox(5.5) and Middle Earth(5.5). After that Noseblob asked about a route that was pictured in the book, and he said something about a layback flake thing, and I knew right away what he was talking about, but I let him try to find it anyway, after looking for the route "Angel's.....something"
I turned the page to the picture of Limelight(5.7), and that was the photo he spoke of.
It was actually the next route I planned on doing.
Last time I led it, it blew my mind.
Last time I followed it, it blew my mind.
I needed conquer that route.
I got up the first pitch, a textbook gunks face climb with only horiztonals for gear, it was exciting. Soon I was on the sharp end of the second pitch, and I cruised it, I was able to keep my head, AND I remember to get some gear in so Noseblob didn't take a "screaming swinger" off the crux, so I was happy, and I can put that route behind me.
Finally, we got on Rhododendron(5.6). It is a fun route that gets easier the better I get at climbing cracks.
So all and all a good day.
Sorry about no pictures.
dev
P.S. Noseblob didn't lead anything all day cause he was a sissy 8^)
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noseblob
Oct 30, 2006, 10:50 PM
Post #428 of 713
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noseblob here: those around this great misguided nation of hours who have climbed with me know that noseblob backwards almost spells 'bobbles on', which, when translated from granitise means 'big spineless pussy with way too much gear' and that any picture taken of me climbing has a rope going upward toward the camera from my waist. I have, however, highballed many V8's, 9's and one 10's. unfortunately i was alone. This Friday is looking nice. Anyone need a bitch? Dev?
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lagarita
Nov 14, 2006, 12:42 AM
Post #429 of 713
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Soooooooo, the new site doesn't have stickies to hold this forum at the first page.
Sean
(This post was edited by lagarita on Nov 14, 2006, 12:54 AM)
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lagarita
Nov 15, 2006, 1:28 PM
Post #431 of 713
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I just wish that I had something climbing related to add. I just haven't gotten the chance to get out in several weeks.
Sean
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taualum23
Nov 20, 2006, 2:53 PM
Post #432 of 713
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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Hey Guys,
I have been out of the scene for a while, and am now very weak, very out of shape, and still too busy to train enough to change any of that.
I have an old rack, old rope and old harness, old shoes, and was on my way to becoming a half-way competent leader (though only easy stuff on trad gear) when life went haywire and I lost track of my love of climbing (somewhere around early 2004).
Anyway, I was hoping to get back out there at some point, I am not proud, and would be happy to TR, hit the gym, or do something that might look like bouldering if you squint real hard (I doubt I could drag my lard-assed, soft-skinned out of shape carcass up a V2 at this point).
So, if that sounds like your kind of fun, shoot me a PM, or post up here.
I live in West Hartford.
Josh
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devkrev
Nov 21, 2006, 7:50 PM
Post #433 of 713
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
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Hey Josh,
I remember you used to be a pretty big poster around here too right?
Welcome back anyhow....
horay for sticky posts again, so now we can go back to not posting anything in here
Its getting to be bouldering/ice season around these parts anyone down for getting their fingers shredded at Seven Falls?
dev
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taualum23
Nov 21, 2006, 10:05 PM
Post #434 of 713
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Yup. Used to post quite a bit. Now this whole "real job" thing has got me working too much to be an active member here OR climber.
I'm down for a weekend bouldering session....though it will NOT be pretty. When do you normally go?
Thanks for the welcome back.
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devkrev
Nov 25, 2006, 2:08 PM
Post #435 of 713
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taualum23 wrote: Yup. Used to post quite a bit. Now this whole "real job" thing has got me working too much to be an active member here OR climber. I'm down for a weekend bouldering session....though it will NOT be pretty. When do you normally go? Thanks for the welcome back.
I work evenings on the weekends, so the only time I would be able to get out would be the morning. How early can you drag yourself outta bed?
I went to Seven Falls last Wednesday with some folks (trainor, palmeri) we had a good time, for some reason a problem that stymied me for months I was able to cruise first try, which was good. I'm guessing it has something to do with my ass being 20 pounds lighter than last winter.
dev
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ne_dan
Nov 27, 2006, 2:56 AM
Post #436 of 713
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It's supposed to be in the 60's tommorow.
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lagarita
Nov 29, 2006, 3:16 PM
Post #437 of 713
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Well it wasn't exactly in the 60's but a good day on the rocks none the less. Up at ragged there was a mist that just hung over us all day.
It was a day of firsts.
First day on Carey Corner, knights move, and acient way.
Acient way was my very first trad lead, supper stoked about that. I can't wait to do it again and agian and, well you get the idea.
later,
sean
(This post was edited by lagarita on Nov 29, 2006, 3:17 PM)
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devkrev
Nov 30, 2006, 12:54 PM
Post #438 of 713
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lagarita wrote: Well it wasn't exactly in the 60's but a good day on the rocks none the less. Up at ragged there was a mist that just hung over us all day. It was a day of firsts. First day on Carey Corner, knights move, and acient way. Acient way was my very first trad lead, supper stoked about that. I can't wait to do it again and agian and, well you get the idea. later, sean
Awesome job on Ancient Way. Knights Move is tons of fun as well.
What did you think of Carey Corner?
dev
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percious
Nov 30, 2006, 9:21 PM
Post #439 of 713
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Registered: May 19, 2005
Posts: 140
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Hey guys. Chris here. Looking to get out on Sunday to either Rattlesnake or Ragged. PM or email me. Have tons of gear and a TRSM cert.
Trad Lead/Follow 5.8/5.10d
-percious
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lagarita
Nov 30, 2006, 11:07 PM
Post #440 of 713
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I loved it, I'm just starting to feel out of shape considering the last time I was climbing was back in late October. So it felt harder than a 5.7. I'd like to go back a lead it some time, the pro looks really good and I wouldn't get freaked out.
I also want to get on Broadway the next time I'm up at Ragged.
Later,
Sean
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devkrev
Nov 30, 2006, 11:25 PM
Post #441 of 713
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In reply to: I loved it, I'm just starting to feel out of shape considering the last time I was climbing was back in late October. So it felt harder than a 5.7
Yeah, its pretty tough, the general consensus on it seems to put it at 5.9, I dunno if I would go that far, but its definitely strenuous.
Solid lead though, the gear is definitely all there, its as G as G can be.
Broadway is on my ticklist as well, I TRed it when I was just starting, and I've been wanting to lead the thing, but the beginning gear I hear can be tricky.
Too bad Main Cliff is pretty miserable in the wintertime due to its western exposure.
Wet Wall is an awesome route as well to lead, the beginning is the crux, so its kinda tricky, but its solid.
dev
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lagarita
Dec 1, 2006, 4:41 AM
Post #442 of 713
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I might put it at a 5.8 maybe a +. There is soo much at ragged I havn't done.
It would be nice if this weather held out for a while so I could get a couple more days in before it really gets bitter cold. I'm not a big fan of winter climbing and boldering sucks, unless there is nothing better to do.
Saturday and Sunday look really good. It looks like we might get some snow by the end of next week.
Ok's Latter all,
Sean
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lagarita
Dec 1, 2006, 4:44 AM
Post #443 of 713
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Hey Dev,
Did you hear that Sleeping Giant is open for climbing? Someone recommed a route, I think its call the chin, that's a 2 or three pitch 5.6. It's supposed to be really cool.
Sean
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devkrev
Dec 1, 2006, 1:18 PM
Post #444 of 713
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Never climbed there myself, but I went running there a few weeks ago to check the it out. The rock was really cool. Its traprock but different from the other stuff further up north. It looked a little dirty, and kinda loose. But I didn't get a real close look at the chin, so don't believe me and go check it out yourself.
Dev
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ne_dan
Dec 1, 2006, 9:00 PM
Post #445 of 713
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Registered: Aug 16, 2005
Posts: 57
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Well I go to school right across the street, the cliffs really not that bad. The climbs called Wiessner Rib, it' technically 2 pitches but you can do it in one. As long as you stay on route you won't have any problems with loose rock. It's worth doing at least once. There is also some good 5.8-11 there too but they are a little sketchy to lead.
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EMyrick
Dec 4, 2006, 9:18 PM
Post #446 of 713
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Registered: Dec 4, 2006
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Hello everyone I am looking for a guy named Aaron who was nice enough to let me and a friend borrow his rope on the 17th of September at a climb in Southington but he never called me to return it. The only information I have is that his name is Aaron and he is from the Hartford area and usually climbs in Southington if anyone knows Aaron please have him email Liz at Myrick@hartford.edu Thank You
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devkrev
Dec 5, 2006, 2:21 PM
Post #447 of 713
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Good luck getting your rope back to this Aaron, I have never met an Aaron.
Sunday afternoon, I hit up Ragged Main Cliff with NicklikesFire and Ciayfields, and some other folks. I lead Carey Corner while some folks threw a rope on YMC. The start was kinda cold, and wet, so it made for some exciting leading after a few weeks off the sharp end. Good times though, it wasn't as miserable as I was expecting.
dev
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ne_dan
Dec 10, 2006, 12:29 AM
Post #448 of 713
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Registered: Aug 16, 2005
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Anyone getting out tommorow.
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ctmeg
Dec 22, 2006, 4:58 PM
Post #449 of 713
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Registered: Aug 22, 2006
Posts: 5
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i'm in avon for a bit right now- has anyone seen that 18 foot traprock boulder on avon mountain? it looks like a side of it is overhanging- i'm just trying to figure out where to park ot access it. i found a pull out that i could park in but i would probably have trouble getting out of, esp at this time of year because its right around a corner and the traffic is so heavy. any beta would be stellar
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lagarita
Jan 5, 2007, 5:19 PM
Post #450 of 713
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Registered: Dec 23, 2004
Posts: 356
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I'm looking for a partner to climb indoors with tonight. Maybe prime climb or Go vertical. I'm in Fairfield so it doesn't matter witch one. I'll even go to the one in Valhalla or New Rochelle NY.
Later,
Sean
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