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Partner heiko


Aug 23, 2005, 2:51 AM
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oh, and concerning the alpine club debate - that membership (belgian or other alpine club) makes refuges in the Alps cost 8 euros a night instead of 17.

plus, (at least with German DAV) you're insured for any kind of mountain sports you do within Europe, including helicopter rescue and all that.


Partner tisar


Aug 23, 2005, 2:55 AM
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Man, really, all of the two weeks I spent there I've been getting on my friends' nerves complaining about the awful weather. Now that I'm in Germany for a week I see that it was f* awesome up there! Only about 1-3hrs of rain a day... :roll:

Yeah, problem is that even twenty minutes of rain can ruin routes for 24 hours. And since it takes tree hours to get to the next rock...

In reply to:
600... wow... that's a lot for getting the license to take people to bolted single-pitch sport climbs and set up a toprope for them... :shock:

Don't know the exact price, but it's around that. And in fact this would be 'license to take people to bolted single pitch gym climbs' at first.

AFAK the 'license' though is just necessary if you wanna teach for the DAV. There's no law which sais you're not allowed to teach if you don't have one. Would be nice though.

- Daniel


Partner heiko


Aug 23, 2005, 3:06 AM
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Don't know the exact price, but it's around that. And in fact this would be 'license to take people to bolted single pitch gym climbs' at first.

Nice!!! :-D

In reply to:

AFAK the 'license' though is just necessary if you wanna teach for the DAV. There's no law which sais you're not allowed to teach if you don't have one. Would be nice though.

- Daniel

Yeah, but as usual, if you want to do it "professionally" and you don't have the respective license a participant can sue you for every bruise she gets. (But to be totally honest, I think nobody should be allowed to teach any mountain sport without proper accreditation. Although of course, we all learned climbing from our more experienced buddies... hmmm...)


Partner tisar


Aug 23, 2005, 4:09 AM
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Yeah, but as usual, if you want to do it "professionally" and you don't have the respective license a participant can sue you for every bruise she gets. (But to be totally honest, I think nobody should be allowed to teach any mountain sport without proper accreditation. Although of course, we all learned climbing from our more experienced buddies... hmmm...)

I'm not that concerned about getting sued (there are good and expensive insurances for that), but it would have a better reputation. Plus it would make me feel better about it as I could say I've done anything to keep them save.

About teaching without accreditation... I'm abivalent about it. It's a mostly matter of attitude. If one ever forgets that teaching goes hand in hand with learning all the time, the best accreditation isn't worth the paper it's written on.

But while teaching climbing on toprope and maybe also leading on single pitch sport routes doesn't take a professor to teach, trad and alpine stuff is a whole different topic.
Since sport climbing deals with a certain routine a little additional reading and knowledge of the newest UIAA outlets should do the job quite well. You're in a position where you can teach what you're doing all the time.
Alpine and trad on a regular basis deals with situations, the teacher himself never whitnessed and probably never will - a whole different teaching situation where proper education can't be completely substituted by experience.

- Daniel


Partner booger


Aug 23, 2005, 7:38 AM
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Wow, lot of action since I've been working... :cry: I feel so left out!!

Well, as uasun said, it was a pretty shitty weekend in Belgium, but the rain cleared up nicely on Sunday and Beth was in town so of course we had to climb SOMETHING. We went to a woooonderful crag (In taz-speak, that means it was full of hellish slabby stuff). Climbed some nice ones. Surprisingly, it was the overhanging stuff that was wet, and the slabs were dry. Lucky, lucky me!! A bit polished like all of Belgium, but - quiet and in a meadow and a hell of a lot nicer than Freyr which is indeed (someone said it a few pages ago) like "Disneyland" - big crowds, often lines and silly outfits (if you count the boys who still climb in spandex).

Heiko, what's this about guano??


Partner tisar


Aug 24, 2005, 12:36 AM
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Hi girldrifter!

Feel ya. Since I changed jobs I hardly can read all threads I want to. Even the Morning Coffee in Community hasn't seen me for a while... instead I'm only talking to th SAP on my comoputer :cry:

Hope the next job will leave more time for chatting...

- Daniel


Partner booger


Aug 24, 2005, 1:12 AM
Post #132 of 1534 (38709 views)
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Me too... SAP, SAP, SAP. Maybe it stands for "Standard Ant or Pawn".

Sounds like you're going to have an amazing weekend ahead, though! Paolo and I are talking about driving to Germany for a weekend soon. Any ideas of climbing places easy to reach from Brussels? "Easy" for us means... 4 hours or so driving??? :D

Heiko, when are you coming to BXL??? And you still haven't answered about the guano...


Partner heiko


Aug 24, 2005, 2:27 AM
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Sounds like you're going to have an amazing weekend ahead, though! Paolo and I are talking about driving to Germany for a weekend soon. Any ideas of climbing places easy to reach from Brussels? "Easy" for us means... 4 hours or so driving??? :D

Hmmm. The north-west of Germany is flat. Why would you want to go there... :roll:

In reply to:
Heiko, when are you coming to BXL??? And you still haven't answered about the guano...


BXL... hmmm... it's flat. Why would I want to go there... :twisted:
There's only four weekends in September, and after that it's October... already. Time flies.

And the guano thing: one of the routes I climbed in Edinburgh was called guano. And it was covered with bird shit. And bird shit is not known for good friction. And leading a 5.9 trad route without good friction was a new experience for me. ;-)


Partner tisar


Aug 24, 2005, 2:47 AM
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Yeah, hope to get rid of SAP ASAP!

A nice place to climb is the Morgenbachtal (it's doubled in the route db: 2nd link). It's close to Wiesbaden so it should be in range.

Not as sportive as a crag can be but niiiiice climbs in a beautiful area. Unfortunatly very crowded on weekends.

You can raise your tents at the Gerhardshof just around the corner (follow the signs, it's a good time driving through the woods). Note that the restaurant is closed Fridays (strange but true...), but below it is a nice lot to camp on. It'll cost some Euros but not much (forgot how much). And they have perfect German kitchen over there... try the vine!

Routes are quite short but it has a good variety of climbs, mostly below 5.10 but there are also harder climbs. And the rock eats pro like nothing... good place to train trad skills :wink:

The most recommended climbs are the 'Weinertkante' (a sandbag 5.6) and the 'Sumpfbiber' (5.10a/b I think). They are also the longest routes (20m +).

As said it's mostly the beautiful sight of the rhine river valley that counts. Plus the rock quality is superb. Pure plaisir...

- Daniel


Partner booger


Aug 24, 2005, 8:29 AM
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Thanks Daniel; we checked that place out last time we were thinking about a w/e. I think it's just over 6 hours :( Oh, well.

Heiko - BXL is NOT flat. With 4 crags within 1.5 hours driving... well, okay, it's not the DOLOMITES or ARCO :? but... anyway, you could come see your FRIENDS... :evil:

As for upcoming plans (all who read are invited) - there are 2 weekends coming up for good stuff: Rome 23-25 of September and Milan (Dolomites) 13-16 of October. Let's make a little reunion!! :D :D There are for sure already about 15 people going to Rome. :D


ren_hoek


Aug 24, 2005, 12:44 PM
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In reply to:
Thanks Daniel; we checked that place out last time we were thinking about a w/e. I think it's just over 6 hours :( Oh, well.

Hi Girldrifter!

You might want to check out the Ettringen and Kottenheim crags near
Koblenz. According to autoroute it is "only" 268 kms which should take
2 1/2 hrs to drive.
There are almost 700 routes in the whole area, basalt stone with lots of cracks and
face climbing. Most routes are bolted, some are trad, and others that are
bolted still might need nuts or friends.
There is a camping site near the Ettringen crags which costs 5 Euro or so
a night.
The only downside, in my opinion, is that is not exactly "beautiful" there as
the crags used to be quarries. The Kottenheim area is the nicer-looking one
but you can get lost very easily.

There is no guide available at the moment, but you can check out the
web-site http://www.klettern-ettringen.de/ ( and follow "Gasteingang", "Routen Datenbank", then select the appropriate sectors
of either Ettringen or Kottenheim) You can find a map of the area under
"Anfahrt")

Kind regards,
Jan


Partner heiko


Aug 24, 2005, 4:05 PM
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Heiko - BXL is NOT flat. With 4 crags within 1.5 hours driving... well, okay, it's not the DOLOMITES or ARCO :? but... anyway, you could come see your FRIENDS... :evil:

:oops:


Partner tisar


Aug 25, 2005, 2:40 AM
Post #138 of 1534 (38709 views)
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Thanks Daniel; we checked that place out last time we were thinking about a w/e. I think it's just over 6 hours :( Oh, well.

Hmm, I just checked the route finder and it sais from Bruxelles to Bingen (closest city) something around 350km, which would be a drive of 3 1/2 hours... Could it be you got the wrong 'Bingen'? There's another city in Baden-Württemberg called like this...

BTW, the Ettringen-thing, never been there, but it sounds great!

Have a nice one!

- Daniel


Partner booger


Aug 26, 2005, 1:54 AM
Post #139 of 1534 (38709 views)
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In reply to:
Hi Girldrifter!

You might want to check out the Ettringen and Kottenheim crags near
Koblenz. According to autoroute it is "only" 268 kms which should take
2 1/2 hrs to drive.
There are almost 700 routes in the whole area, basalt stone with lots of cracks and
face climbing. Most routes are bolted, some are trad, and others that are
bolted still might need nuts or friends.
There is a camping site near the Ettringen crags which costs 5 Euro or so
a night.
The only downside, in my opinion, is that is not exactly "beautiful" there as
the crags used to be quarries. The Kottenheim area is the nicer-looking one
but you can get lost very easily.

There is no guide available at the moment, but you can check out the
web-site http://www.klettern-ettringen.de/ ( and follow "Gasteingang", "Routen Datenbank", then select the appropriate sectors
of either Ettringen or Kottenheim) You can find a map of the area under
"Anfahrt")

Kind regards,
Jan

Thanks Jan - this sounds AWESOME!! I am so excited!! Anyone else want to meet us there? We could go either Sept 9-11 or 16-18!! :D :D

Daniel - I'll check Bingen again too, but I've always wanted to try Basalt (even though it gets a bad rap, it has a cool name... :wink: )


Partner tisar


Aug 26, 2005, 2:56 AM
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In reply to:
Thanks Jan - this sounds AWESOME!! I am so excited!! Anyone else want to meet us there? We could go either Sept 9-11 or 16-18!! :D :D

Daniel - I'll check Bingen again too, but I've always wanted to try Basalt (even though it gets a bad rap, it has a cool name... :wink: )

Yeah, just had a look at the pictures of Ettringen... seems like hell of a crag! Wasn't I broke to the bone I would come around in September :cry:

If you're ever plan on going to the Frankenjure though, let me know. Possibility I can get there with a couple of friends is high.

- Daniel


ren_hoek


Aug 26, 2005, 3:33 AM
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In reply to:
Anyone else want to meet us there? We could go either Sept 9-11 or 16-18!! :D :D

Don't think I could make it then ... there is a slight chance I could be there
on the weekend 16-18th of Sep.

You can ask for climbing partners on the Ettringen forum, people are
usually very nice and helpful there. http://ettringen.klettern-ettringen.de/index.php

Before going there, please try to find out if the camping site is still open. It
is not a regular camping site, and as far as I know, it is a local farmer who
provides easy accomodations. The name of the owner is Schaeffer.

Have lots of fun, there!

If you need help feel free to conatct me.

Kind regards,
Jan


Partner tisar


Aug 29, 2005, 3:30 AM
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Morn' folks!

Back from the crag, a whole weekend of teaching knots, pointing out belay errors and telling how much easier climbing is if one uses her/his feet instead of doing 10 pullups in a row...

Good news first: Nobody got hurt! Bad news... now there are none :D We had perfect weather, a nice bunch of people willing to learn and they did! Had loads of fun and two of the participants even brought their guitars for the campfire afterwards! (Causing other people on the camp site to 'sing' comments: "My friend the tree..." :lol:).

Now maybe one thing to complain about: I couldn't climb. Except of course those 5.3-5.5s which weren't exactly on my tick list... but lots of them :lol: Still I feel like I've climbed miles... all this standing around, climbing halfways up, jump on ropes to lead/clean anchors and stuff is hard!

Now next weekend we'll bring another group and after that we will try to get one class together comercially. Let's see.

Hope y'all had a good time! Let's hear some bragging, epics, stories.

So long,

- Daniel


overlord


Aug 29, 2005, 5:50 AM
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well, the good news is you actually did climb. it was a shitty weekend here. again.

but hopes are high for the next weekend. me and my buddies are actually thinking of foregoing friday night in order to be sober to climb on sat. yes, were that desperate.


uasunflower


Aug 29, 2005, 7:07 AM
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awesome w-end in belgium (for once), both sunny days in freyer, although a bit too warm yet for my liking. No epics (c'mon, it's all sport) if not counting what the US folks would call sex. harassment by a drunk partner while camping at night. Finally redpointed a couple of the 6as in the region, worked a 7a that kicked my fingers, my feet, my shoes - everything. Freyer still surprises me by the quality of routes there. Good place.


Partner booger


Aug 30, 2005, 6:33 AM
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UA, you should definitely check out Beez sometime. It's bolted, but we were on trad there all weekend. It ate gear like there was no tomorrow - tricams, friends and nuts galore! :) Sunday we went to Awirs where we climbed some of the craziest slab! Wonderful!! 8^)

Tisar, congrats on your course buddy! That's awesome! Maybe there's hope for escape from SAP hell ... no?

I'll let you German guys know as soon as plans are made for an excursion! I sure look forward to meeting you all!


Partner tisar


Aug 30, 2005, 7:08 AM
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In reply to:
UA, you should definitely check out Beez sometime. It's bolted, but we were on trad there all weekend. It ate gear like there was no tomorrow - tricams, friends and nuts galore! :) Sunday we went to Awirs where we climbed some of the craziest slab! Wonderful!! 8^)

Tisar, congrats on your course buddy! That's awesome! Maybe there's hope for escape from SAP hell ... no?

I'll let you German guys know as soon as plans are made for an excursion! I sure look forward to meeting you all!

Hi Taz!

Sounds like I had to go to Beez one time. It's time to do some trad again before I forget how to make placements (and test the Aliens I got!). Maybe hook up with someone to show how to rig some basic anchors. Lots of theory in my head which needs approval in reality...

The SAP thing is already over! I finished this partiular job on Monday, now 'looking forward' to the next 9-5 bs the temp company has for me. Nothing by now, so I'm able to spend some days off in the park hopefully.

Since there's the next course coming up next weekend there's also some logistics to manage and stuff. This time we night have some people with us who already did some climbing. Would be nice to jump on some real climbs - still got some redpoints waiting for me in Loebejuen 8^) There's a nice sustained 5.10 (Saxony VIIIa, UIAA 7-) I wanna try to get ticked. Now... if I dare to...

- Daniel


Partner heiko


Aug 31, 2005, 12:14 AM
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Sounds like I had to go to Beez one time.

When you go to Belgium for climbing, make sure you stay away from girldrifter and paolo... they'll make you drunk the first night to make themselves look better next day for climbing when you're hungover like hell ;-)
And then, when you've recovered and just gotten used to nice climbing on holes and cracks and jugs, they take you to this crazy f*** slab that takes half a day to get used to and then your toes hurt so much that you actually can't really climb anymore.

:twisted:


paolo75


Aug 31, 2005, 12:29 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:

Sounds like I had to go to Beez one time.

When you go to Belgium for climbing, make sure you stay away from girldrifter and paolo... they'll make you drunk the first night to make themselves look better next day for climbing when you're hungover like hell ;-)
And then, when you've recovered and just gotten used to nice climbing on holes and cracks and jugs, they take you to this crazy f*** slab that takes half a day to get used to and then your toes hurt so much that you actually can't really climb anymore.

:twisted:

we made you drunk?!? :evil: Of course, we forced you to drink all that sh*t.... you were doing nothing, pour little German boy...you were only taking a funnel in your mouth and wait that we poured you out some of that nasty liquid. Isn't it?


Partner heiko


Aug 31, 2005, 12:41 AM
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we made you drunk?!? :evil: Of course, we forced you to drink all that sh*t.... you were doing nothing, pour little German boy...you were only taking a funnel in your mouth and wait that we poured you out some of that nasty liquid. Isn't it?

EXACTLY! :oops:


Partner booger


Aug 31, 2005, 1:44 AM
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mmmmm... wine in a box. my favorite! :lol:

Poor Heiko was crying alcoholic tears on night #2 "no alcohol, please... no liquor". Generally I don't have any sympathy for that sort of behavior :twisted: but I let him off the hook.

Tisar, don't worry, we'll get you drunk BOTH nights.

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