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Top Ten Gyms in the US
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peeps


Dec 8, 2005, 8:37 PM
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If you ever get to the Baltimore/DC area, you really ought to check out Earth Treks climbing gym; ET has 3 locations: Columbia, Maryland, Timonium, Maryland, and opening in a matter of days is Rockville, Maryland.

Earth Treks is owned by Chris Warner and is a gym built by climbers. I, personally, frequent the Timonium location and love it.

www.earthtreksclimbing.com


jt512


Dec 8, 2005, 8:57 PM
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In reply to:
Jay,

:oops: --------> You missing the point!

What's the point, then, just to have people agree with you? You stated that you wanted discussion and that if we knew of better gym in the area to name them. I've done both, so if I've missed the point, then it would seem that you have mis-stated the point.

Jay


gmreeves


Dec 8, 2005, 9:51 PM
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i looked at all of the places over the web and i can't see what the big appeal of a rock gym is. i guess if you live in the flatlands, you don't have much of a choice. if that was the case, i think i would find another passion.


rockclimber919


Sep 30, 2009, 4:26 PM
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apparently you never made it to texas. Stoneworks in carrollton, tx. 120 ft grain silos. tallest indoor gym in the country. one word to describe it, amazing.


dagibbs


Sep 30, 2009, 6:23 PM
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Re: [the_shoe] Top Ten Gyms in the US [In reply to]
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Out of your list, I've climbed at different branches of Uppler Limits (Bloomington IL) and Vertical Endeavors (Warrenville IL), and Planet Rock (both the Ann Arbor location and the [edit] Pontiac not Plymouth [/edit] location.) as well as another 13 gyms accross the US. Not quite as wide a spectruum as yours -- but still a fair variety. Some of them were tiny little places, some had done various interesting things, or made good use of limited space. Some were just not that good.

Planet Rock, AA, is a pretty good gym.

VE (Warrenville) had more "natural" rock than most any other gym I've encountered in the US. That is routes that could be worked on/climbed without any bolt-on/screw-on holds.

But, I think the gym that has most impressed me of the ones I've been to was Planet Granite in Sunnyvale, CA - http://www.planetgranite.com/sc/home_sc.html . It has extensive bouldering, a good variety of long routes with plenty of interesting changes of angle and pitch along them, some interesting route setting, a bunch of crack climbs, and even a chimney. It also has work-out facilities (machines, free weights, etc) and a yoga studio -- though I can't comment on the quality/completeness of those offerings as I don't tend to use them. Washrooms/changerooms were large, roomy, with showers and free lockers available (supply your own lock). People were friendly, too.


(This post was edited by dagibbs on Sep 30, 2009, 9:01 PM)


shimanilami


Sep 30, 2009, 6:44 PM
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PG Sunnyvale is my home gym and it kicks ass, as far as indoor gyms go.

But nothing beats the Jailhouse.


dagibbs


Sep 30, 2009, 6:47 PM
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shimanilami wrote:
PG Sunnyvale is my home gym and it kicks ass, as far as indoor gyms go.

But nothing beats the Jailhouse.

Where's the Jailhouse?


shimanilami


Sep 30, 2009, 6:57 PM
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dagibbs wrote:
Where's the Jailhouse?

I could tell you, but then I'd have to kill you.

(It's not actually a gym, but it sure climbs like one ... a gym with nothing easier than 5.11d, that is.)


churningindawake


Sep 30, 2009, 8:18 PM
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Re: [the_shoe] Top Ten Gyms in the US [In reply to]
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In reply to:
#5: Portland Rock Gym
Portland, Or
http://www.portlandrockgym.com
I would have to say that Clubsports has a way better rock gym than The Portland Rock Gym does.


jt512


Sep 30, 2009, 8:20 PM
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Re: [dagibbs] Top Ten Gyms in the US [In reply to]
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dagibbs wrote:
Out of your list, I've climbed at different branches of Uppler Limits (Bloomington IL) and Vertical Endeavors (Warrenville IL), and Planet Rock (both the Ann Arbor location and the Plymouth location.)

Pontiac, not Plymouth. Wrong crappy American car brand.

Jay


Nate362


Sep 30, 2009, 8:20 PM
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i've never been to Rockreation in L.A. but i can say that their gym in Costa Mesa has the biggest group of elitist gymbies ever. that and their staff is REALLY unfriendly.


dagibbs


Sep 30, 2009, 8:59 PM
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Re: [jt512] Top Ten Gyms in the US [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
dagibbs wrote:
Out of your list, I've climbed at different branches of Uppler Limits (Bloomington IL) and Vertical Endeavors (Warrenville IL), and Planet Rock (both the Ann Arbor location and the Plymouth location.)

Pontiac, not Plymouth. Wrong crappy American car brand.

Jay

*snicker*

Yeah.


tangen_foster


Oct 4, 2009, 1:11 AM
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I liked your review, shoe ...i'm going to chek out the wall in pittsburgh now that you've recommended it. What were you doing with Bonnie Raitt? Love her stuff.


gosharks


Oct 4, 2009, 1:53 AM
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dagibbs wrote:
But, I think the gym that has most impressed me of the ones I've been to was Planet Granite in Sunnyvale, CA - http://www.planetgranite.com/sc/home_sc.html . It has extensive bouldering, a good variety of long routes with plenty of interesting changes of angle and pitch along them, some interesting route setting, a bunch of crack climbs, and even a chimney. It also has work-out facilities (machines, free weights, etc) and a yoga studio -- though I can't comment on the quality/completeness of those offerings as I don't tend to use them. Washrooms/changerooms were large, roomy, with showers and free lockers available (supply your own lock). People were friendly, too.

PG Sunnyvale is, IMO, definitely the best gym in the SFBA. Also it's better than Earth Treks Timonium and Momentum in SLC (Sandy, UT).


(This post was edited by gosharks on Oct 4, 2009, 1:56 AM)


Partner cracklover


Oct 4, 2009, 2:07 AM
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tangen_foster wrote:
I liked your review, shoe ...i'm going to chek out the wall in pittsburgh now that you've recommended it. What were you doing with Bonnie Raitt? Love her stuff.

Um, you know this thread had been dead for four years? And the OP hasn't even logged onto the site in six months.

Unlikely he's going to see your question unless you email him. Also, many of the gyms will have changed quite a bit in that time. Hell, plenty of gyms will have opened or gone under in five years!

GO


neotheclimber


Oct 4, 2009, 2:28 AM
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gotta say the other PRG is my Favorite, Phoenix Rock Gym that is!


onarunning


Oct 4, 2009, 3:38 AM
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chalkfree wrote:
If you're going to put a VE up, the one in Duluth is superior in my opinion. Sure there's a bit less variety, and the building it's in is depressing as hell. But you can't beat the atmosphere and the company. Besides all the good stuff Nicros has come up with is at the one in duluth, not the one in St. Paul.

Go ahead flame away. I like to climb there alot and I don't like to climb in the cities as much.

I almost wrote almost this exactly, so I'm going to second it. Duluth VE has a great atmosphere. I've climbed at both and really prefer the Duluth VE.


(This post was edited by onarunning on Oct 4, 2009, 3:43 AM)


onarunning


Oct 4, 2009, 3:42 AM
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crazyscuba wrote:
i understand the list is subjective but i gotta complain a bit about ve. the dude owns a hold company, yet they still refuse to have any footholds and the holds they do have are rarely cleaned. the route setters lack creativity and nearly every move is one big throw or hand-foot match.

i'm obviously biased, but did you make it to boulders in madison? or prairie walls in rochester? both are much nicer gyms than any of the ve's that i've been to. praire walls has a bunch of freestanding boulders with some of the best setters i've ever seen. then you can go to boulders and go to one of the only gyms in the country that uses and makes their own clay holds. they have shapes that NOBODY else will ever have.

steve

Prairie walls does have one of the coolest bouldering setups I've ever seen. They are mostly freestanding, you can top them all out, and they even have one that's tall enough to inspire a little fear going over the top.

edited to say I don't know why my quotes won't work.


(This post was edited by onarunning on Oct 4, 2009, 3:43 AM)


alexoverhere


Oct 12, 2009, 6:58 AM
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Planet Rock, Ann Arbor, has great routesetting, but I was impressed by Planet Granite Sunnyvale and Presidio. Having 523085235 cracks is just wonderful.


jt512


Oct 12, 2009, 3:17 PM
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alexoverhere wrote:
Planet Rock, Ann Arbor, has great routesetting...

Haven't climbed any routes there. I wouldn't exactly call their boulder problems "great."

Jay


milesenoell


Oct 12, 2009, 3:50 PM
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[quote "sneetch"]Holy shit! Crux? Sure, it's my home gym, and I love climbing there, but damn. Number seven in the country is a little over glorified.[/quote]

I'm still laughing about this one. I mean the Crux is where I got started, but shit, there are real rocks THREE BLOCKS AWAY!


xaniel2000


Oct 12, 2009, 6:26 PM
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Re: [rockclimber919] Top Ten Gyms in the US [In reply to]
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Post #29 was a stealthy bump!


wjca


Oct 12, 2009, 7:24 PM
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the_shoe wrote:
Once again I will state that my list is is devised out of 27 gyms that I went to while on tour. I stated that future lists will follow as I go back out on tour and stop in other cities. I know that cities such as Utah and Colorado certainly have competing gyms. And when I have visited more I will compile a list that is more detailed and thorough.

Essentially this list was devised to open the eyes of others to the gyms that are out there. So don't take it personally if your gym is not listed. This is my opinion.

Plus a lot of these gyms have no listing on this site or are listed without a web address. I will eventually list the web address and the gyms in the routes section when I return in three weeks.

Again these are the ten gyms that I enjoyed the most.

And I do agree with your Climbing Wall assessment, however I had no partner for that day and enjoyed very much their bouldering. Bouldering wise it deserves to be on my list.


Maybe you should list the other 17 gyms so people can see what you're basing your opinion on.



Edited to add: I just realized this thread is four years old.


(This post was edited by wjca on Oct 12, 2009, 7:27 PM)


testrosa


Oct 12, 2009, 8:38 PM
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Rockreation *gasp* You sure this is not a worst gyms list?

I thought Rockreation was the place you go to lie on the floor in the bouldering area with your mates for hours on end, with nary a concern that staff will ever ask you to move. Worse case some douche who actually *gasp* wants to climb might ask you to move (rude!).

Also you left out

Hanger 18
Riverside, CA
http://www.climbhangar18.com/

Some of the whys

Just a Huge gym
Huge lead / bouldering areas (You can top out on some bouldering) and a big top rope area
Several different size cracks
Two auto belays one on easier, on on harder routes
Extremely long traverse route
Very low monthly rate (cheaper than rockreation)
No crazy cancellation fees, you just cancel done
Very helpful polite staff
Routes are more accurately rated and better in general

Things that suck there:
NO WATER WTF? Unless you want to drink from the sink.
Extremely hot in summer they need to improve ventilation, great place to tear a callus in the summer.


OSUbuckeye


Oct 12, 2009, 8:44 PM
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I recently visited Climb Nashville and can attest to it's greatness. Really nice bouldering area and a good variety of harder TR routes. I wish they had autobelays because I couldn't find anyone to climb with until the end of my session. Why more gyms don't use auto belays I don't know.

Because of this fact, I think Boulders in Harker Heights, Texas (my old gym) is worthy of a spot on the list or at least close to it. Amazing and diverse route setting on both lead, TR, and bouldering as well as super and experienced staff, autobelays, and plenty of outdoor trips you can jump in with (though I'm sure a few less now I'm off).

Shameless plug for my old gym but it really was a great place to climb.

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