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_fiend_


Dec 21, 2005, 2:06 PM
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Re: Weaknesses [In reply to]
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Well gosh I didn't actually expect a positive response to my "structured whining" :wink: I guess the reason I post things that formally is that I've been analysing my climbing for quite a while now. And the order helps keep things, errr, in order.

However, there's one crucial thing. Know what the problem is, knowing what are likely means to help with it - that is one thing. Actually having those methods actually help and make any improvements is something totally different. Really really different. Recognising a problem is a start....solving it is a huge distance away.

With me, I try lots of things, but in the end they don't make THAT much difference, the problems are so deep, all these methods are touching the surface, tackling the symptoms maybe. I say this because I don't want people to think that working out the problem and methods to help necessarily does anything major....although for some people I'm sure it does.

This is for the mental ones BTW, physical ones are simpler I think.


jt512


Dec 21, 2005, 2:28 PM
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In reply to:
Gosh. I hope my reply doesn't break the forum :?

Well, if your post didn't, my response might.

In reply to:
In general, I try to work on my weaknesses by recording them, analysing them, and formulating plans to deal with them.

Weakness 1: Inability to commit to moves where the outcome or end position is uncertain.

What I do:
Try to climb as much as possible.

It is unclear how this would help you commit. I don't see the connection.

In reply to:
Try to push myself leading as much as possible.

This is not very specific. It's like saying "In order to try to overcome commitment problems, I try real hard."

In reply to:
Focus on flashing everything in my training.

Again, this is vague.

In reply to:
Go sport climbing where I feel more confident getting into uncertain situations.

This seems to have some merit, but what, if anything, do you while sport climbing to help you commit?

In reply to:
Weakness 2: Inhibition about falling off even when the protection is good.

What I do:
Work out moves thoroughly to avoid falling.

Avoiding falling is not going to help you overcome fear of falling.

In reply to:
Keep pushing myself leading to try to break through that barrier.

Again, both the meaning and the connection to your goal is unclear.

In reply to:
Recent training falling practise down the wall.

I would expect this to be valuable. Now take it outside, and take practice falls that are within your comfort zone in situations that you know are safe, and build up slowly from there.

In reply to:
Weakness 3: Get pumped very quickly hanging around placing protection.

What I do:
Try to train stamina down the wall.

Good if you do it effectively, the details of which should be discussed in the Training forum.

In reply to:
Boulder hard to be able to do harder moves easier thus making them less problematic when pumped.

That's the generally accepted dogma, but personally, I don't believe it. If all I do is boulder, my endurance doesn't noticeably improve at all.

In reply to:
Weakness 5: Climbing on gritstone which specifically challenges my main mental and most physical weaknesses.

What I do:
Get as much mileage as possible.
Boulder lots on gritstone to get used to the rock's intricacies.
Choose climbs that really inspire me.
Only push myself on the right days with the right conditions, feelings, partner, etc.

This sounds good. These tactics are clearly explained and their connection to the goal is clear as well.

Jay


_fiend_


Dec 21, 2005, 3:10 PM
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Jay, I try lots of things to help with my weaknesses, obviously some will be more useful and more focused than others.

Some are not to improve my weaknesses, but to try to progress despite the weaknesses, i.e. find a way around them.

And "pushing myself" as a method, there is some sense in that. It keeps me challenged, it gets me used to being challenged, and sometimes I push past the weakness - which gives me a bit more confidence I can overcome it.


hossjulia


Dec 22, 2005, 3:47 PM
Post #29 of 35 (5185 views)
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[quote="_fiend_"]
Weakness 1: Inability to commit to moves where the outcome or end position is uncertain.
It's a very deep psychological problem that isn't climbing specific.
In reply to:

Story of my life. I've spent the better part of the last few years trying to get inside my own head enough to figure this one out.
RWW helped a bit.

fiend brought up some great points, his reply, far from breaking this post, is the essence of it, thanks so much for sharing!

I to have been dealing with fitness related issues caused by old injuries, to both body and mind, that I can't quite seem to get over. I know I'll be more confident if I'm fitter. I'm not that out of shape though, and know that it's "90% mental". The moves are there. So are those irrational, unfounded fears.

But my biggest weakness is by far my reluctance to committ. To anything.

I have an awesome life. There is no reason why I should'nt be climbing, or skiing, as much as humanly possible. But I don't. Why?
My solution is to stop thinking so hard and just start doing. (and re-reading RWW)
I'll let you know how it goes in a month or so.


arnoilgner


Dec 28, 2005, 12:28 PM
Post #30 of 35 (5185 views)
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Hello _fiend_

Your comment: With me, I try lots of things, but in the end they don't make THAT much difference, the problems are so deep, all these methods are touching the surface, tackling the symptoms maybe.

Developing awareness works at a deep level even if it doesn't seem to. Observe limiting ways you react, observe ego intrusions, observe resistances when you climb. Observing begins the process of bringing up whatever is deep and over time will allow you to rewrite how you react to them.
arno


annak


Jan 6, 2006, 11:16 PM
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What we are all doing posting on the 'Weaknesses' thread (which is extremely interesting indeed), when, if I remembered a lesson from Arno's book correctly, we should rather be talking about opportunities?!

My biggest opportunity is to make a consistent effort during the performance days and to climb as if it was the last day on the rock. For example, I realized that way too often after a couple of runs on my limit,
I'd decide to either downgrade into cooling down regime or to switch to TR and call it training runs. The excuses are easy to find -- arms pumped, fingertips shredded, 'have to leave some juice for tomorrow', (or 'this is my second day, anyway').

Second opportunity is to stop being intimidated by numbers and past performances. For example, when I am lost on a warmup, I start projecting this into next runs, i.e., "if this 10a felt so hard, forget about
jumping on 11b project", etc. Likewise, I am often reluctant to jump on a route which I'd think is above my head, based on my past performances.
For example, it took me quite an effort to talk myself into leading 10a trad route last Sunday (I was thinking to myself, "Anna, you are not a 10a trad leader yet, remember, you bailed from these two 10a's at Josh, it's going
to be desperate", etc, etc, etc). I am really glad I decided to lead it -- it was empowering, although I did fell at the crux.

Technical and physical opportunities are plenty: controlling body tension on vertical/steep terrain and dynos are the two that promise biggest improvements.


cal_gundert05


Jan 6, 2006, 11:31 PM
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My weakness...well, I suck at chess! Maybe that's why I can't climb. Hmmm...interesting :lol:


geobum


Feb 2, 2006, 3:42 PM
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a foremost weakness for me:

checking/reading this forum 17 times/day instead of training (that is to say, reading about improving my climbing instead of actually working on it).

:oops:


rc86


Feb 7, 2006, 7:52 PM
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My biggest weakness is probally the fear while leading, not of falling, but of what might happen after the fall. And to work on it I just lead as much as possible and if i fall, oh well, try again.


james_climber


Feb 7, 2006, 8:29 PM
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onsight routes , and endurance

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