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mikej


Feb 21, 2006, 2:53 PM
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early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear
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I realize that "home made trad gear" and "scary" are redundant, but i still have to ask. I had a physical therapist for a back injury, who was a trad climber in the 70's and earlier. He told me they used to use wood blocks and wedges for pro. Anyone got a better one?


Partner heiko


Feb 21, 2006, 2:57 PM
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CCH Aliens :lol:
(sorry, couldn't resist)


giza


Feb 21, 2006, 3:41 PM
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http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/975/fc17fp.jpg

This was a 'freebie' included in an Ebay bid for some Cassin cams last month....scary.


fishbelly


Feb 21, 2006, 3:58 PM
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Well hey .Its not like you could buy sportdraws at REI on line.


healyje


Feb 21, 2006, 3:59 PM
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It wasn't at all necessarily scary at all. Lots of homemade gear worked great. All the gear you use today basically started in someone's garage or basement at some point. Some classics like Dave Rearick's hard wood nuts actually worked even if you needed a tire iron to clean one after a fall. On the otherhand, some of the manufactured products that came out over the years were completely horrific. SMC Camlocks sucked beyond all belief as did CMI single cable and lobe cams.

Rearick's Hardwood Nuts...

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=35955

SMC "Rattling Nolock" Cam...

http://www.needlesports.com/...m/art/camlocksxs.JPG

CMI "Swivel of Death" Cam (the springless ones on the left)...

http://www.needlesports.com/...seum/art/kirksxs.jpg


cully_larson


Feb 21, 2006, 4:38 PM
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What made the pictured SMC and CMI pro bad?


gordo


Feb 21, 2006, 6:03 PM
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Wow, that's cool stuff. More...More :D


up_for_a_good_time


Feb 21, 2006, 6:07 PM
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hahahahahaha.......he said Aliens......hahahahahahahaha. so true.


dynosore


Feb 21, 2006, 7:04 PM
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In reply to:
CCH Aliens
(sorry, couldn't resist)

Of all the days to not have trophies....thanks 4 the laugh


nudge_nudge


Feb 21, 2006, 7:44 PM
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In reply to:
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/975/fc17fp.jpg

This was a 'freebie' included in an Ebay bid for some Cassin cams last month....scary.

The hex description in the auction used to be my signature... "try it out though and see if you can yank it out of a crack."

I wonder who was the lucky winner.


healyje


Feb 21, 2006, 9:44 PM
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What made the pictured SMC and CMI pro bad?

The SMC didn't have an approriate cam curve / profile - they rattled out of near parallel-sided cracks at the slightest jiggle of the sling. The CMI cam lobe swiveled 360 degrees around the wire head and, being just a narrow, single cam lobe, they tended to simply "keel over" on their sides if the wire got tugged at all.


mikej


Feb 22, 2006, 8:45 AM
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those single lobers look pretty freaky, i wouldn't trust a whole rack of those to hold me (all 130lbs). Whats to keep them from pulling? If its just opposing force of those amazing pieces of machinery, I'll take one of those wood ones instead.


landgolier


Feb 22, 2006, 8:53 AM
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There is a story somewhere in the Vertical Hearland guide of an early OW FA where the guy was up there with a tape measure and somebody on the ground was cutting 2x4's to size. Proud...


leapinlizard


Feb 22, 2006, 9:17 AM
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I've got some old t-hexes. they are stackable in the crack and have all sorts of cool ways to place them. Of course I am too lazy to go digging through my duffel bag to take a photo of them, but maybe I will eventually.


herbaltee


Feb 22, 2006, 9:24 AM
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In the Balkans (i.e. Croatia) don't they still use monkey fists as protection? Nothing like a ball of rope in a crack to hold your weight.


jstp


Feb 22, 2006, 10:03 AM
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Well.... i remember using machine nuts on cord when i started. and once did complete a Valley classic with just 'pebbles picked up on the approach' and some slings as inspired by countless evening showings of Vertical Frontier.


But that ain't nothun' on some actually produced gear. Remember the Seismo (sorry CCH, i mean no harm)? it was basically two cam lobes attached to a big bro, only with no spring. to make the 'bro' bigger you just slid in another length of pipe. the cam lobes apparently gave a bit of range flexibility and active protection. they turn up on ebay every once in a long while. i'd love to get ahold of one just to see. someone out there must have one, or at least pictures.

i have also heard tell of, from more than once person, an inflatable pro device. apparently some bag expanded in the crack by filling with air and was supposedly tested to be useful. never saw nor heard any real convincing evidence though. might have been developed for use on the shores of Loch Ness if you know what i mean. Still....


speedywon


Feb 22, 2006, 10:15 AM
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Disclaimer: I'm a "spoiled young punk" who never had to climb on any of this stuff, but I once saw a small set of knotted slings in climbing museum.

I stopped and tried to visuallize being 20ft above my last knot wedged into a constriction in a crack, trying to wedge in my next one . . . . . uuuhhhhhh, I think I just soiled myself. :oops:


Partner epoch
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Feb 22, 2006, 10:23 AM
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In reply to:
In the Balkans (i.e. Croatia) don't they still use monkey fists as protection? Nothing like a ball of rope in a crack to hold your weight.

AKA "Eastern Block Standard"


thabadcharacter


Feb 22, 2006, 11:29 AM
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bailing off of a wedged nalgene bottle set as a chock.... bomber placement though!


healyje


Feb 22, 2006, 11:42 AM
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In reply to:
Disclaimer: I'm a "spoiled young punk" who never had to climb on any of this stuff, but I once saw a small set of knotted slings in climbing museum.

I stopped and tried to visuallize being 20ft above my last knot wedged into a constriction in a crack, trying to wedge in my next one . . . . . uuuhhhhhh, I think I just soiled myself. :oops:

They still lead on racks of carefully constructed knots at some places in the Czech Republic. Bomber stuff they've been using for decades.


7robbster3


Mar 12, 2006, 11:14 PM
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How about the beer keg at Church bowl, though it was pretty solid......


Partner tisar


Mar 12, 2006, 11:53 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Disclaimer: I'm a "spoiled young punk" who never had to climb on any of this stuff, but I once saw a small set of knotted slings in climbing museum.

I stopped and tried to visuallize being 20ft above my last knot wedged into a constriction in a crack, trying to wedge in my next one . . . . . uuuhhhhhh, I think I just soiled myself. :oops:

They still lead on racks of carefully constructed knots at some places in the Czech Republic. Bomber stuff they've been using for decades.

Yup: Czech and Saxon Sandstone Pro. Not bad as one would think but still a little scary. Try it!

After trying I always carry some extra cord with me. Best weight/cost/bulk to use ratio. :D

- Daniel


wallwombat


May 18, 2006, 4:58 AM
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Didn't Joe Brown (the little Welsh bloke, who was the duck's nut's in the 50's and 60's) used to fill his pockets with pebbles and jam them in cracks, sling them and crank on better than anyone?


grover


May 18, 2006, 6:25 AM
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Remember the Seismo (sorry CCH, i mean no harm)? i'd love to get ahold of one just to see. someone out there must have one, or at least pictures.


http://www.needlesports.com/...s/Nuts%27Story69.jpg

I'm sure this link has been posted before......
http://www.needlesports.com/...museum/camsstory.htm


ninja_climber


May 18, 2006, 6:50 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In the Balkans (i.e. Croatia) don't they still use monkey fists as protection? Nothing like a ball of rope in a crack to hold your weight.

AKA "Eastern Block Standard"

Not Eastern block..but I'll let that go...

Do they even have Trad climbing in the Balkans...The closest thing I've seen was 10 feet of layback crack...in a 75ft sport route..


Partner csgambill


May 18, 2006, 7:13 AM
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#5 Slung tortise is where it's at. It can switch from passive to active mode in an instant.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=67994

edit: This is Corpse in May '05 testing out the brand new HCR #5 slung tortise. He's about to take a 15' whipper onto the piece. Nah, he's really about 3" off the ground.


sungam


May 18, 2006, 7:21 AM
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I can't remember which route, but in "mountain days and bothy nights" it explains that the FA of a route on the cobbler (scotland) was done by two guys, one with a tapemesure, hanging off of wood wedges hammered into the crack with slings around them, and the guy below, cutting them to size. the operation took several hours, and i belive a middle man was included to ferry to blocks up.

-Magnus

p.s. lol @ csgambill.


skinner


May 18, 2006, 7:54 AM
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In reply to:
http://www.needlesports.com/...m/art/camlocksxs.JPG

CMI "Swivel of Death" Cam (the springless ones on the left)...

I still have some of these :D

They didn't work worth a $h*t..
With no spring to hold them in place *cammed* they fell out more often then not.

A typical scenario with much of the early clean gear.. went something like this.

You are 50 - 60' above your belayer with all sorts of delicately-placed new fangled clean pro between the two of you.
You finally see a good placement just above your head, one that you know will actually hold. You un-clip your trusty MOAC and slide it in the crack, a sharp downward tug.. and it's bomber! You reach down grabbing a good length of rope to clip.
Your belayer is day dreaming and doesn't give you the slack you need. The resulting tension and few feet of rope you managed to pull up, lifts every piece of pro up, and dislodges them all simultaneously. Your belayer tries to shield his face with one hand as they all race down the rope towards him. But the rope is like a rifle scope with the cross-hairs aimed right at his crotch. He receives ample punishment for failing to be alert 100% of the time. Now you hang on your single piece cursing this "clean" climbing philosophy and wishing you had a hammer and some pitons.


Ah yes... the good ole days :wink:


golsen


May 18, 2006, 8:24 AM
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You guys are kind of tough on those SMC Camlocks donít ya think? :lol: Not that I disagree but one of them saved my bacon once. Before Friends (about 1980) I was attempting my first 5.10 on-site and I had recently bought a camlock from some dude in the parking lot. One of the cruxes was an overhang with a fairly parallel sided finger crack to pull through. Being a cheap bastard I did not resling the camlock (I think it was about 5 or 6 mm cord. I placed that camlock, and proceeded to fall a good 20-25 feet on the puppy. While the camlock held, the sheath on the cord was destroyed. All in all a good learning experience.

I remember trying knots a time or too, I did not like them and thank god did not test them out. I used to use Forrest Copperheads wedged like a nut as pro. Not home made but kind of scary by todays stdís. My partners and I did an early ascent of a Fred Beckey route (Triple Overhangs on Lone Peak) where he had protected the route with a wooden piton. I donít have it but it fell out on us so I am pretty sure my partner has it. It was slung with twisted cord and was placed in the early 60ís.


Partner happiegrrrl


May 18, 2006, 8:51 AM
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Your belayer is day dreaming and doesn't give you the slack you need. The resulting tension and few feet of rope you managed to pull up, lifts every piece of pro up, and dislodges them all simultaneously. Your belayer tries to shield his face with one hand as they all race down the rope towards him. But the rope is like a rifle scope with the cross-hairs aimed right at his crotch. He receives ample punishment for failing to be alert 100% of the time. Now you hang on your single piece cursing this "clean" climbing philosophy and wishing you had a hammer and some pitons.

Ah yes... the good ole days :wink:

Now THAT is funny.....I can just see it in my mind.


cincysam


May 18, 2006, 9:53 AM
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Interesting - I just sold a few of those CMI swivel cams on Ebay. They came with a full set of Forrest Titons (T-chocks?), which is what the guy actually wanted.


dawid72


May 18, 2006, 11:10 AM
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In reply to:
Yup: Czech and Saxon Sandstone Pro. Not bad as one would think but still a little scary. Try it!

After trying I always carry some extra cord with me. Best weight/cost/bulk to use ratio. :D

- Daniel

Same in Poland (on the Czech border). Simply because any other gear (and bolting) is banned in that National Park.

dawid72


krusher4


May 18, 2006, 11:44 AM
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bailing off of a wedged nalgene bottle set as a chock.... bomber placement though!

OHH That is so hard-core, props!


skinner


May 18, 2006, 9:30 PM
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I remember trying knots a time or too, I did not like them and thank god did not test them out.

Ah the memories.. no *good* ones of knots though.. but some funny ones.
I tried aiding up a crack with knots once, The funny thing was that it worked fine for me, but for my burly partner it was a totally different story. Weighing at least 80-90 lbs. more then me, the knots would slowly tighten, become smaller, and start sliding down the crack. It was hilarious to watch him clipping away in a frenzy while swearing profusely as he tried to get off each knot before it blew, all the time watching them shrink right in front of his nose.

I am glad you brought up the *knot* thing, because it reminded me of one of the home-made pieces of mank we experimented with and thankfully never took a whipper on.

It was our first set of wedges, at the time they cost 5 or 10 cents each and were all the exact same size.

http://www.punchstock.com/...humb72/187869sdc.jpg

That's right.. aluminum pencil sharpeners, available at the local drug store.
We'd put them in a vise, run a drill through them and then thread a piece of doubled webbing through the hole, knot it, and voila.. more mank to add to our pathetic rack.

I have another tale of stupidity, but can't remember what the goofy thing was called. Without and image (if I can find one) it just wouldn't make any sense.. not that it ever did mind you.
Anyone know what those stands were called that you would use in the science labs at school? The were adjustable, and you would use them to hold a flask over a bunson burner, etc, etc, etc.


112


May 18, 2006, 9:43 PM
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I think we called then 'ring stands'


skinner


May 18, 2006, 9:50 PM
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In reply to:
I think we called then 'ring stands'

Hey.. you're right :)

OK.. now picture every one of these:

http://www.hometrainingtools.com/tbimages/398.80.225.jpg

missing from the high school lab come Monday morning.

Then imagine them with the thumb screws removed and a piece of cord looped through and knotted.

Now picture a couple of less then brilliant high school students on a mountain with a string of these jammed in the rock as pro..

You get the idea :roll:

To make matters worse, we didn't actually have any cordage, so we improvised. We would take a piece of Goldlineģ and split the strands into... pieces of really awful and twisted cord


el_layclimber


May 18, 2006, 9:58 PM
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In defense of camlocks, if you do manage to get them in good, they aren't going anywhere. I have been cursed by many a second over that very issue.
I went climbing with a German guy a few years back who had an oversized chopstick on his rack for adjusting placements when using knotted slings as chocks. I suppose this upgrades a knot from passive to active protection.


Partner heiko


May 19, 2006, 5:45 AM
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Knots are ALWAYS active pro, as they adapt to the form of the crack! :lol:

But seriously, the scariest pro I've seen has always been "natural pro", in the form of dead twigs or roots. This stuff is SO popular here! :shock:


gunkiemike


Jun 25, 2006, 3:58 PM
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The first pitch I ever aided (1976 or thereabouts) was done totally on wooden pegs.

It was the 35' tall poured concrete wall of the college science building. And being a poured wall, it had 1 inch dia. holes every 3 ft where the forms were wired together. These were plugged with plastic discs after the forms were removed but there was still an inch depth of hole available. So I went into the back yard and snapped off a branch from the pine tree that looked the right size, and cut it into 4" length. I tapered the end of each one a bit and stuffed them in my pockets. Then off me and my partner went to the wall. My hammer was a carpenter's claw hammer from our garage. I pounded the first peg in, tied it off with a hero loop and stepped up. Repeat with the next peg. It was all so simple. EXCEPT... there's a funny thing about tree branches. They get smaller as you go along. So most of the pegs I had were too skinny. I had three or four that were the right diameter, the rest I had to back clean. But I made it to the top and brought my partner up (not sure if he re-aided or jugged the rope.) Then we rapped off and got roofing tar all over my Goldline.


oldrnotboldr


Jun 26, 2006, 8:52 PM
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Re: early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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Here's one: a 1960's era soft iron knife blade and steel oval carabiner I picked up once in Colorado back in the 1990's. I remember clipping a similar one and rapping off a couple in Colorado back in the 1990's.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=75176


hibby11


Jun 26, 2006, 10:14 PM
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Re: early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
CCH Aliens
(sorry, couldn't resist)

Of all the days to not have trophies....thanks 4 the laugh

Don't worry I got it for ya


Partner heiko


Jun 27, 2006, 7:00 AM
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Re: early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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Hey, these "tricams" are on ebay Germany right now. Looks like scary pro to me, as I have no idea who might have made them, except maybe for some russian garage shop (maybe the same one that sold the spray-painted "camalots" the other day?) :shock:

http://i1.ebayimg.com/02/i/07/89/6d/79_1.JPG


svilnit


Jun 27, 2006, 8:04 AM
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Re: early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
CCH Aliens
(sorry, couldn't resist)

Of all the days to not have trophies....thanks 4 the laugh

No worries, I trophied him for you! :lol:


bagels


Jul 24, 2006, 3:15 PM
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Re: early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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My dad was telling me of his days when he first started climbing ( im guessing 1950's) him and his friends used to sneak into neibors yards and steal their cloths lines to use as a rope. For a harness they simply tied it around their waist. Then they would go find railroad spikes to use as pitons. I think that I would rather free solo.


claramie


Jul 24, 2006, 3:55 PM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/...topic=73490&forum=23

Why litter when you can use it as pro?

CL


gerrybo


Jul 24, 2006, 4:38 PM
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In the Balkans (i.e. Croatia) don't they still use monkey fists as protection? Nothing like a ball of rope in a crack to hold your weight.
In reply to:

While climbing in Slovakia I was mocked by a salty old climber for using "that fancy American gear that harms the rock." Whats' more he said if I didn't know how to tie a knot for protection I should not be climbing. He was drunk and I almost fell over laughing.

What is really funny about the story is that he did not expect that my partner and I were able to understand the Slovak language. We called him on it, and he gave us some of the best homemade alcohol I ever tasted.


lunabruandabby


Jul 24, 2006, 6:40 PM
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Wow, those wooden chocks are beautiful!

Justin


jmvc


Apr 1, 2008, 10:50 AM
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Re: [mikej] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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[quote "mikej"]I realize that "home made trad gear" and "scary" are redundant, but i still have to ask. I had a physical therapist for a back injury, who was a trad climber in the 70's and earlier. He told me they used to use wood blocks and wedges for pro. Anyone got a better one?[/quote]

Not so out of use.. This month's edition of [i]Desnivel[/i] (important spanish climbing mag) had a perfectly serious article about how to properly use wood as pro..

They claim you get some bomber placements by filling up holes with wood and banging a piton into them.. And also they were using them stacked with nuts, filling up the gap for a cam that was too small...


therat


Apr 1, 2008, 11:23 AM
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Re: [mikej] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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"El Matador"... probably the most famous pitch at Devils Tower... STILL has plywood wedged into the left crack!


knieveltech


Apr 1, 2008, 11:36 AM
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Re: [cincysam] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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[quote "cincysam"]Interesting - I just sold a few of those CMI swivel cams on Ebay. They came with a full set of Forrest Titons (T-chocks?), which is what the guy actually wanted.[/quote]

*weeps quietly* I've been trying to get my hands on a set of Titons for months now. :( *sniffle*


summerprophet


Apr 1, 2008, 12:01 PM
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Re: [knieveltech] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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knieveltech wrote:
*weeps quietly* I've been trying to get my hands on a set of Titons for months now. :( *sniffle*

If you are serious, PM me.....


JohnCook


Apr 1, 2008, 12:54 PM
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Re: [wallwombat] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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Joe Brown is English (there's a huge difference) He's in his 80's and still does 5.10's. In the 50's and early 60's with rudimentary gear (steel carabiners pebbles etc!) he was putting up top 5.11 and possibly low 5.12 routes, often with little protection and long runouts. His mate Don Willans put up some equally mind blowing routes, which often repel modern hardmen with all their modern gear.


therat


Apr 1, 2008, 1:06 PM
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Re: [knieveltech] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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knieveltech wrote:
[quote "cincysam"]Interesting - I just sold a few of those CMI swivel cams on Ebay. They came with a full set of Forrest Titons (T-chocks?), which is what the guy actually wanted.[/quote]

*weeps quietly* I've been trying to get my hands on a set of Titons for months now. :( *sniffle*

In reply to:
I don't have a full set, but I DO have SEVERAL!


healyje


Apr 1, 2008, 4:20 PM
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Re: [mikej] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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I'm still all about natural pro whenever humanly possible and don't hesitate use the occasional found stick or stone as pro or filler. Pro would be boring if it were only for protection.


adatesman


Apr 1, 2008, 5:07 PM
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shockabuku


Apr 1, 2008, 7:58 PM
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Re: [adatesman] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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Can you fix the picture? I want to see it.

Nevermind, now I do.


(This post was edited by shockabuku on Apr 1, 2008, 7:59 PM)


knieveltech


Apr 1, 2008, 8:22 PM
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Re: [therat] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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therat wrote:
knieveltech wrote:
[quote "cincysam"]Interesting - I just sold a few of those CMI swivel cams on Ebay. They came with a full set of Forrest Titons (T-chocks?), which is what the guy actually wanted.[/quote]

*weeps quietly* I've been trying to get my hands on a set of Titons for months now. :( *sniffle*

In reply to:
I don't have a full set, but I DO have SEVERAL!

I'm envious.


miavzero


Apr 1, 2008, 8:36 PM
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Sheep skin, pig intestines, or a tube sock.


Uncleh


Apr 7, 2008, 10:09 AM
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Re: [miavzero] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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BITD we used to cut the ends off the soft Cassin pins, so that they would nest better in shallow pockets. Then we would take the sawed-off ends, drill a small hole in them and thread them with a thin cord. This dubious item was then hammered into shallow seams--an early "smashie". The problem [at least one of] was that when you hammered on it, the hole would compress and cut into the cord. I had several of these things, but only used one once. Surprisingly it held my weight as i hurried to place the next piece...........
In reply to:


sungam


Apr 7, 2008, 3:15 PM
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Re: [Uncleh] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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Have you guys seen "Hard Grit"? (if not, do-it's one of the best climbing movies out there)
How about when that australian dude is climbing that blank face? "... and there's three nials for pro. I got them down at the hardware store for 70p, and wrapped them up in duct tape to make them wedge in better" !!!!

-MagnuS


pindrvr75


Apr 8, 2008, 11:03 AM
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Anyone vaguely remember the feeling of relief as you clipped into that "bomber" Rawl, Star Drivn or Phillips contraction stud BITD. The 1/4" bolt with the leeper hangar looked pretty good too! If you even had that, instead of a piece of cut/drilled angle iron. The old pro might have been a lot better than people give it credit. If you think about it, who wanted to take a 40ft whipper with a yosemite bowline or swami around their waist. Maybe the old/homemade pro was a bit scarey by today's standard but you gotta give it credit for it's usage. Not too many stories of the stuff blowing apart, unlike the cams of late. The old stuff either held or popped right out intact, the latter due to installation or application error. Another aspect to consider is what was in the design parameters. A lot of this old gear was only designed to keep you cruising for one day, not to have the kind of continual usage that is expected from today's gear. When you fell fairly hard on the stuff the first time, it kinda got replaced before it became questionable because cost was not a big factor. Try convincing someone into doing that with a new $50 piece of gear.


warthog


Apr 8, 2008, 4:21 PM
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a 15-ft fall on a bowline on a coil hurts.


avalon420


Apr 28, 2008, 9:36 AM
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Re: [giza] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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[quote "giza"][url]http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/975/fc17fp.jpg[/url]

This was a 'freebie' included in an Ebay bid for some Cassin cams last month....scary.[/quote] Hell the biner is a tad old but rest looks brand new, and never placed. Realy though, probably better made than the cams. Hhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhaaahahahaha!!!


skinner


Apr 29, 2008, 5:45 AM
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Re: [avalon420] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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I'd take that just for the biner. I had one of those.. no load rating or stamps on it of any sort. It looked like it had been hand made from a length of mild steel bar.
It came with an old WWII parachute I bought years ago.


limeydave


Jul 2, 2008, 12:50 PM
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Re: [sungam] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Have you guys seen "Hard Grit"? (if not, do-it's one of the best climbing movies out there)
How about when that australian dude is climbing that blank face? "... and there's three nials for pro. I got them down at the hardware store for 70p, and wrapped them up in duct tape to make them wedge in better" !!!!

-MagnuS

Ha yeah, fricken nails!
Guaranteed to blow, but hopefully slow you for the dodgy piece under it.
Brass balls man.


evanwish


Oct 24, 2008, 9:34 AM
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Re: [grover] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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[quote][quote "grover"][quote]Remember the Seismo (sorry CCH, i mean no harm)? i'd love to get ahold of one just to see. someone out there must have one, or at least pictures. [/quote]


[url]http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/artcams/Nuts%27Story69.jpg[/url]

[quote skinner]Your belayer is day dreaming and doesn't give you the slack you need. The resulting tension and few feet of rope you managed to pull up, lifts every piece of pro up, and dislodges them all simultaneously. Your belayer tries to shield his face with one hand as they all race down the rope towards him. But the rope is like a rifle scope with the cross-hairs aimed right at his crotch. He receives ample punishment for failing to be alert 100% of the time. Now you hang on your single piece cursing this "clean" climbing philosophy and wishing you had a hammer and some pitons.
[/quote]

I'm sure this link has been posted before......
[url]http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/camsstory.htm[/url][/quote][/quote]

good stuff!


knieveltech


Oct 24, 2008, 10:35 AM
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Re: [limeydave] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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limeydave wrote:
sungam wrote:
Have you guys seen "Hard Grit"? (if not, do-it's one of the best climbing movies out there)
How about when that australian dude is climbing that blank face? "... and there's three nials for pro. I got them down at the hardware store for 70p, and wrapped them up in duct tape to make them wedge in better" !!!!

-MagnuS

Ha yeah, fricken nails!
Guaranteed to blow, but hopefully slow you for the dodgy piece under it.
Brass balls man.

I gotcher nails right here:



The really scary part: that shit was anchoring a set of wooden stairs at Chimney Rock last time I was there.


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