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early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear
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summerprophet


Apr 1, 2008, 12:01 PM
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Re: [knieveltech] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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knieveltech wrote:
*weeps quietly* I've been trying to get my hands on a set of Titons for months now. :( *sniffle*

If you are serious, PM me.....


JohnCook


Apr 1, 2008, 12:54 PM
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Re: [wallwombat] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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Joe Brown is English (there's a huge difference) He's in his 80's and still does 5.10's. In the 50's and early 60's with rudimentary gear (steel carabiners pebbles etc!) he was putting up top 5.11 and possibly low 5.12 routes, often with little protection and long runouts. His mate Don Willans put up some equally mind blowing routes, which often repel modern hardmen with all their modern gear.


therat


Apr 1, 2008, 1:06 PM
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Re: [knieveltech] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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knieveltech wrote:
[quote "cincysam"]Interesting - I just sold a few of those CMI swivel cams on Ebay. They came with a full set of Forrest Titons (T-chocks?), which is what the guy actually wanted.[/quote]

*weeps quietly* I've been trying to get my hands on a set of Titons for months now. :( *sniffle*

In reply to:
I don't have a full set, but I DO have SEVERAL!


healyje


Apr 1, 2008, 4:20 PM
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Re: [mikej] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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I'm still all about natural pro whenever humanly possible and don't hesitate use the occasional found stick or stone as pro or filler. Pro would be boring if it were only for protection.


adatesman


Apr 1, 2008, 5:07 PM
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shockabuku


Apr 1, 2008, 7:58 PM
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Re: [adatesman] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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Can you fix the picture? I want to see it.

Nevermind, now I do.


(This post was edited by shockabuku on Apr 1, 2008, 7:59 PM)


knieveltech


Apr 1, 2008, 8:22 PM
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Re: [therat] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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therat wrote:
knieveltech wrote:
[quote "cincysam"]Interesting - I just sold a few of those CMI swivel cams on Ebay. They came with a full set of Forrest Titons (T-chocks?), which is what the guy actually wanted.[/quote]

*weeps quietly* I've been trying to get my hands on a set of Titons for months now. :( *sniffle*

In reply to:
I don't have a full set, but I DO have SEVERAL!

I'm envious.


miavzero


Apr 1, 2008, 8:36 PM
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Re: [mikej] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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Sheep skin, pig intestines, or a tube sock.


Uncleh


Apr 7, 2008, 10:09 AM
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Re: [miavzero] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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BITD we used to cut the ends off the soft Cassin pins, so that they would nest better in shallow pockets. Then we would take the sawed-off ends, drill a small hole in them and thread them with a thin cord. This dubious item was then hammered into shallow seams--an early "smashie". The problem [at least one of] was that when you hammered on it, the hole would compress and cut into the cord. I had several of these things, but only used one once. Surprisingly it held my weight as i hurried to place the next piece...........
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sungam


Apr 7, 2008, 3:15 PM
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Re: [Uncleh] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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Have you guys seen "Hard Grit"? (if not, do-it's one of the best climbing movies out there)
How about when that australian dude is climbing that blank face? "... and there's three nials for pro. I got them down at the hardware store for 70p, and wrapped them up in duct tape to make them wedge in better" !!!!

-MagnuS


pindrvr75


Apr 8, 2008, 11:03 AM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2005
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Re: [mikej] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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Anyone vaguely remember the feeling of relief as you clipped into that "bomber" Rawl, Star Drivn or Phillips contraction stud BITD. The 1/4" bolt with the leeper hangar looked pretty good too! If you even had that, instead of a piece of cut/drilled angle iron. The old pro might have been a lot better than people give it credit. If you think about it, who wanted to take a 40ft whipper with a yosemite bowline or swami around their waist. Maybe the old/homemade pro was a bit scarey by today's standard but you gotta give it credit for it's usage. Not too many stories of the stuff blowing apart, unlike the cams of late. The old stuff either held or popped right out intact, the latter due to installation or application error. Another aspect to consider is what was in the design parameters. A lot of this old gear was only designed to keep you cruising for one day, not to have the kind of continual usage that is expected from today's gear. When you fell fairly hard on the stuff the first time, it kinda got replaced before it became questionable because cost was not a big factor. Try convincing someone into doing that with a new $50 piece of gear.


warthog


Apr 8, 2008, 4:21 PM
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Re: [pindrvr75] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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a 15-ft fall on a bowline on a coil hurts.


avalon420


Apr 28, 2008, 9:36 AM
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Re: [giza] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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[quote "giza"][url]http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/975/fc17fp.jpg[/url]

This was a 'freebie' included in an Ebay bid for some Cassin cams last month....scary.[/quote] Hell the biner is a tad old but rest looks brand new, and never placed. Realy though, probably better made than the cams. Hhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhaaahahahaha!!!


skinner


Apr 29, 2008, 5:45 AM
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Re: [avalon420] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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I'd take that just for the biner. I had one of those.. no load rating or stamps on it of any sort. It looked like it had been hand made from a length of mild steel bar.
It came with an old WWII parachute I bought years ago.


limeydave


Jul 2, 2008, 12:50 PM
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Re: [sungam] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Have you guys seen "Hard Grit"? (if not, do-it's one of the best climbing movies out there)
How about when that australian dude is climbing that blank face? "... and there's three nials for pro. I got them down at the hardware store for 70p, and wrapped them up in duct tape to make them wedge in better" !!!!

-MagnuS

Ha yeah, fricken nails!
Guaranteed to blow, but hopefully slow you for the dodgy piece under it.
Brass balls man.


evanwish


Oct 24, 2008, 9:34 AM
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Re: [grover] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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[quote][quote "grover"][quote]Remember the Seismo (sorry CCH, i mean no harm)? i'd love to get ahold of one just to see. someone out there must have one, or at least pictures. [/quote]


[url]http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/artcams/Nuts%27Story69.jpg[/url]

[quote skinner]Your belayer is day dreaming and doesn't give you the slack you need. The resulting tension and few feet of rope you managed to pull up, lifts every piece of pro up, and dislodges them all simultaneously. Your belayer tries to shield his face with one hand as they all race down the rope towards him. But the rope is like a rifle scope with the cross-hairs aimed right at his crotch. He receives ample punishment for failing to be alert 100% of the time. Now you hang on your single piece cursing this "clean" climbing philosophy and wishing you had a hammer and some pitons.
[/quote]

I'm sure this link has been posted before......
[url]http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/camsstory.htm[/url][/quote][/quote]

good stuff!


knieveltech


Oct 24, 2008, 10:35 AM
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Registered: Dec 1, 2006
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Re: [limeydave] early pro, scariest piece of home made trad gear [In reply to]
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limeydave wrote:
sungam wrote:
Have you guys seen "Hard Grit"? (if not, do-it's one of the best climbing movies out there)
How about when that australian dude is climbing that blank face? "... and there's three nials for pro. I got them down at the hardware store for 70p, and wrapped them up in duct tape to make them wedge in better" !!!!

-MagnuS

Ha yeah, fricken nails!
Guaranteed to blow, but hopefully slow you for the dodgy piece under it.
Brass balls man.

I gotcher nails right here:



The really scary part: that shit was anchoring a set of wooden stairs at Chimney Rock last time I was there.

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