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crimpjunkie


Jun 21, 2007, 9:35 AM
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Rumney Guidebook  (North_America: United_States: New_Hampshire: Grafton_County: Rumney)
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Hi All -

I am leaving next weekend for a short trip to Rumney to get some climbing in. I did some research and found that the only Rumney specific guidebook published was "Rumney" by Ward Smith - 'was' being the operative word. As the book is currently out of print, I have only been able to locate this one copy (http://www.amazon.com/...182443009&sr=8-1) on Amazon.com for a 'mere' $125.

That said, does anyone know of another guidebook that might suit my purposes? Or better yet, does anyone have a copy of the afore mentioned guidebook they no longer use and are willing to get rid of for something more in the $20 range? Any help is definitely appreciated.


Partner lwilson


Jun 21, 2007, 9:49 AM
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Re: [crimpjunkie] Rumney Guidebook [In reply to]
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there is a new guide coming out mid-late summer. I heard the publishing company asked to have all the old guides sent back, why ?, I don't know.

honestly, Rumney is always super busy on the weekends, so if you showed up, you can ask people where stuff is, and you'll do just fine. if you need directions to get there, let me know. or, I can sell my guide to you for a mere 100 bucks...a 25 dollar savings for you ! Wink


dlintz


Jun 21, 2007, 9:59 AM
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Re: [lwilson] Rumney Guidebook [In reply to]
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Is it too hot to climb there in mid August? I might be in the area around that time.

d.


Partner lwilson


Jun 21, 2007, 10:18 AM
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its warm, sometimes muggy. its the humidity that gets you. its a toss up...you can get a nice clear day, or get a hot muggy day (most likely the case) . if its muggy, go for a dip in the river after you're done climbing !


crimpjunkie


Jun 21, 2007, 10:20 AM
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Thanks lwilson.

I have heard the same thing that you wrote, and it seems that the area is really not all that big (relatively). I just wanted to have a route 'itinerary' because this is the first and last time I am going to be able to get up there this summer and wanted to get a lot of climbing done in my short time there.


Partner lwilson


Jun 21, 2007, 10:32 AM
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welcome crimpjunkie.

what range of difficulty are you looking at ? I can help with good routes up to mid-11s. or heck !....make a new post asking for people's favorite rumney routes, and where they are located. you are right, the area is relatively small.

how long you gonna be up there ?


crimpjunkie


Jun 21, 2007, 10:52 AM
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lwilson -

I have not really clipped bolts in the past, but I trad lead at about 5.7. I am anticipating being able to do a little bolder leads (for me) on some of area's clip & go routes (read about 5.9). My girlfriend (more towards whom this trip is geared and who has started leading on some 5.3-5.5 routes that I have pre-placed gear on) is looking to start off with the areas easiest routes and see what she can progressively push herself to do over the weekend. She is a strong climber on top rope, but this is a chance to develop her head game as well.


c4c


Jun 21, 2007, 11:30 AM
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crimpjunkie wrote:
Hi All -

I am leaving next weekend for a short trip to Rumney to get some climbing in. I did some research and found that the only Rumney specific guidebook published was "Rumney" by Ward Smith - 'was' being the operative word. As the book is currently out of print, I have only been able to locate this one copy (http://www.amazon.com/...182443009&sr=8-1) on Amazon.com for a 'mere' $125.

That said, does anyone know of another guidebook that might suit my purposes? Or better yet, does anyone have a copy of the afore mentioned guidebook they no longer use and are willing to get rid of for something more in the $20 range? Any help is definitely appreciated.

Wow. I didn't realize that it was out of print. I just scored one a couple of weeks ago from my local shop for $25. I think that I got the last copy. But you can check with them- the mountaineer in Keene valley NY.


c4c


Jun 21, 2007, 11:45 AM
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You may want to call Climb High in Vt and see if they have a copy lying around. two locations 802-985-5055 or 802-865-0900


crimpjunkie


Jun 21, 2007, 12:17 PM
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Hey c4c -

I called all 3 locations that you mentioned, but they were all out too. They were not aware of the publisher's 'recall', but it appears that some sort of recall is in place because I cannot find a single location that has it in stock (including mail order).


c4c


Jun 21, 2007, 12:29 PM
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Are you going this weekend to the rumney ruckus? If so you are welcome to browse my copy.


c4c


Jun 21, 2007, 12:40 PM
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I would check with chessler books too, they list it on their website. 800 654 8502


dlintz


Jun 21, 2007, 12:44 PM
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c4c wrote:
I would check with chessler books too, they list it on their website. 800 654 8502

If his trip was next year and not next weekend I'd say check with Chessler. Tongue

d.


c4c


Jun 21, 2007, 12:50 PM
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dlintz wrote:
c4c wrote:
I would check with chessler books too, they list it on their website. 800 654 8502

If his trip was next year and not next weekend I'd say check with Chessler. Tongue

d.
I have had good luck with Chessler's. Just make sure that you pay for priority mail(2-3 days) instead of media mail(2-3 weeks).


crimpjunkie


Jun 21, 2007, 12:51 PM
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Chessler had it and they have shipped it out to me. Thanks alot for all the help.


Partner jammer


Jul 1, 2007, 11:32 AM
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Well, I resurrected this thread to inform everyone that there are a few books available at The Clam Post Cafe, located about 100 yards from the parking lot. As I said, there are just a few left, so first come, first served.

Good Luck ...


lucander


Jul 1, 2007, 12:00 PM
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Two ideas:
Go to IME in North Conway, see if they have a copy
or

find Adventure Outfitters (hadley, Massachusetts), they have a big guidebook selection and not a lot of climbers who live nearby. I've seen over a dozen copies of this book on their shelf in the spring.
They also have the out of print Handren guide for Cathedral & Whitehorse.


jakedatc


Jul 1, 2007, 2:00 PM
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I looked at IME a few weeks ago briefly while we were waiting out some rain and i didn't think i saw any copies.. but you could always call to find out.


oquipah


Jul 6, 2007, 12:52 PM
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Calm Post just a short walk from the Parking Lot had about 5 copies this past weekend (July 4th). They are in limited supply since a new/updated guidebook is slated for release. Also found 6-8 copies in downtown Plymouth at the outdoor shop.

Of course 'at the crag' route info seemed to be more than available and most people realize that the guidebook is harder to find and lend them out for review. Just note that since it's dated there may be new routes between those in the book.


rjman53


Aug 9, 2007, 3:11 AM
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While searching for the guidebook that has gone out of print I came across ROCK CLIMBING NEW ENGLAND By Stewart Green. Says it covers a lot of areas and Rumney was included. Anyone know if its any good? I'm sure that having so many areas im one book it can't very comprehensive.


(This post was edited by rjman53 on Aug 9, 2007, 3:14 AM)


jakedatc


Aug 9, 2007, 10:42 AM
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Nooooo Rock climb NE does not have a great selection from Rumney and is even more out dated than the current Rumney guidebook. I wouldn't get it unless it had other stuff you were interested in. Best bet is to stop by Calm Post or the Rumney general store and hope they have them (or call first) or find someone at the rock with one and snag a glance. If you are there for a weekend this should be pretty easy.


Conan


Aug 31, 2007, 5:53 PM
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Is the new guide book out yet? Do they have any instock @ the barn? Or should I hit North Conway for a guide?


nightlion


Aug 31, 2007, 6:14 PM
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Won't find it in North Conway. I was up there a couple of weeks ago and no one had it then. They all said the same thing. OUT OF PRINT.


joeforte


Aug 31, 2007, 7:12 PM
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crimpjunkie wrote:
lwilson -

I have not really clipped bolts in the past, but I trad lead at about 5.7. I am anticipating being able to do a little bolder leads (for me) on some of area's clip & go routes (read about 5.9). My girlfriend (more towards whom this trip is geared and who has started leading on some 5.3-5.5 routes that I have pre-placed gear on) is looking to start off with the areas easiest routes and see what she can progressively push herself to do over the weekend. She is a strong climber on top rope, but this is a chance to develop her head game as well.

^^^Read Above^^^

Someone local has to help this guy out. I think with the route difficulty he is looking for, a weekend especially at rumney is not the best time/place to go... There is so much more rock around, especially in that difficulty range. Rumney tends to be hard, overhanging, and the "Easy" routes (which there aren't many of) will be PACKED on the weekends.

My girlfriend and I tried some easy stuff there, and were very dissapointed. If you do decide to go, Check out the Bonsai wall. There are a lot of 10's there that are BUCKET-FESTS. Bolts are close together, so you can clip,hang,repeat, if you are intimidated.

Don't let the grades intimidate you at Rumney. There are many 10's and 11's that are JUGS THE WHOLE WAY. The only reason for the high ratings is because they take a lot of endurance, but since it is bolted, you can comfortably get in way over your head.

Personally, we couldn't find any "quality" routes under 5.9 there, but I'm sure a local can help you out.

Good luck man! If you lead 5.7 trad, you can lead 5.10 at rumney for sure.... maybe not clean, but you'll get up them!!!!


dbrian56


Sep 1, 2007, 12:44 PM
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Are there any maps online showing the locations of each cliff at least?


LaddRaine


Sep 2, 2007, 5:33 PM
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[[Check this out for a map]]http://mountainproject.com/v/new_hampshire/rumney/106013097

[[Check this out for beta on routes]]http://mountainproject.com/v/new_hampshire/rumney/105867829


campo


Sep 6, 2007, 12:18 PM
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Who is the new publisher for the new guidebook? I would like to give them a call to see when the actual release date is going to be....


jakedatc


Sep 6, 2007, 7:57 PM
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Send a PM to Oldmansmith at either RC or NEB.. They are saying spring release and it's being slowed up by the forest service giving them a final trail map or something of that sort.. there is a thread on NEB or Mtn project i forget which


JeffDrake


Nov 15, 2007, 5:49 AM
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EDIT:

Found an online merchant that says they have the 2001 version

http://www.campingsurvival.com/ruclgubosm.html

J


(This post was edited by JeffDrake on Nov 15, 2007, 5:59 AM)


boconnell25


Apr 28, 2008, 6:42 AM
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Has anyone heard any more about the release of the new Rumney book? Everything I've read has said sometime in Spring of 08...

It would be great if this book was out before the summer.


redpoint73


Apr 28, 2008, 7:40 AM
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Latest word is late spring or early summer.


http://www.neclimbs.com/...dex.php?topic=3353.0


boconnell25


Apr 28, 2008, 8:16 AM
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Thanks for the update!


debaser655321


Dec 4, 2008, 12:01 PM
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Any updates on the New Rumney Guide. Will it be out before next season?


Factor2


Dec 4, 2008, 12:17 PM
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lol i think it's all a big hoax


debaser655321


Dec 4, 2008, 12:19 PM
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I think it is a hoax too. I'll just print out the stuff on mountain project.


mojomonkey


Dec 4, 2008, 12:44 PM
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debaser655321 wrote:
I think it is a hoax too. I'll just print out the stuff on mountain project.

I sort of did that already, but made it into a much handier book form from it and included info from RC.com (more routes, less info on them) and neclimbs.com. See info here.

I asked about posting it for others to use (it took me a ton of time and would be a shame to waste), but the idea didn't get too warm of a reception, mainly because the real guide is wrapping up and will be out "very soon". That was 3 months ago.

With the proper guide coming and nowhere good to host it, I didn't. I sent it out to a handful of people who asked over PM, but that is too much work to keep up. Anyone have any good info on the real guide? I am not from the area (only went once, who knows if/when I'll get back) and don't want to step on anybody's toes. Perhaps the idea of posting it is worth kicking around again...


jakedatc


Dec 4, 2008, 4:20 PM
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In reply to:
I know everyones chaffing at the bit the good news is that it is nearly done.

Didn't want to rush it this fall, We are working on advertising, photo's and info and have made the decision to take the time to proof it, again and again. try to get everything right, produce a guide that is not only accurate but a good product, much like the last one, and release it in the spring!

Hang in there, it's coming

Bob

From the thread on NEclimbs


cjsimpso


Dec 31, 2008, 7:24 AM
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It's been coming out "soon" for a long, long time.

I'm happy with my beat-up old one for now, but it's funny how many new climbs I keep finding each time I go. Although rumor has it that there is a new ban on adding bolts on most of the big lower crags.

Any word on the ramifications of that?


jakedatc


Dec 31, 2008, 7:51 AM
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It's not a rumor.. it's a solid fact that their is a moratorium on new lines at a bunch of crags

if you search around you can fill in your book with alot of the new routes between here and Mtn project. Or know who to talk to at the rock :)

my post above is directly from the guys putting it out so that's the best we can do for info. It takes time to put out a quality book.. not some shitty ass Falcon guide that is lame.


shoo


Dec 31, 2008, 8:13 AM
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The lower crags are practically grid bolted anyway, covering basically all the really aesthetic lines. Besides, if I were looking for new stuff at Rumney, I'd be staying away from those purely to avoid the weekend crowds. There's still new, super hard lins to be found in the upper Rumney areas for those with the skills to pull it. The moratorium doesn't and won't have any real negative affect on the overall quality of Rumney climbing.


jakedatc


Dec 31, 2008, 8:24 AM
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Shoo i would hardly call them grid bolted. Perhaps you don't know what that actually means. Almost all the lines at rumney are very distinct and pretty well thought out. It's been a pretty model example of HOW to do a sport area and the new rules prove that even more.

beating the crowds down low doesn't take alot of effort.. just can't be picky if you just want to warm up quick on the way up.. snag an open line or 2 and run run run ! then go back after like 3pm and you have the whole place to yourself if there is something you wanted to get on.

i don't see how it would have a negative effect. all the routes are in and not very much has been added to those crags in a long time so they just made it official.

i wanna go clip bolts now :( stupid snow


shoo


Dec 31, 2008, 8:39 AM
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jakedatc wrote:
Shoo i would hardly call them grid bolted.

It's the internets. Assume exaggeration.

jakedatc wrote:
beating the crowds down low doesn't take alot of effort.. just can't be picky if you just want to warm up quick on the way up.. snag an open line or 2 and run run run ! then go back after like 3pm and you have the whole place to yourself if there is something you wanted to get on.

And yes, that is exactly what I do.


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


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