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time2clmb


Oct 17, 2007, 2:29 PM
Post #276 of 2012 (7376 views)
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Re: [the_climber] Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbers Information Hub. [In reply to]
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the_climber wrote:
Yes he is.... or maybe not, 'Cause we only climb 5.4 and 5.4+ here.

Uh...yeah...I was talking about the secret 5.4++ variation. I already got my answerPirate

(This post was edited by time2clmb on Oct 17, 2007, 2:29 PM)


rockguide


Oct 17, 2007, 2:39 PM
Post #277 of 2012 (7373 views)
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Re: [time2clmb] Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbers Information Hub. [In reply to]
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time2clmb wrote:
the_climber wrote:
Yes he is.... or maybe not, 'Cause we only climb 5.4 and 5.4+ here.

Uh...yeah...I was talking about the secret 5.4++ variation. I already got my answerPirate

I can't believe you found the tunnel! or the button that turned the headwall around like a spy-movie book case to reveal the ladder!

B


skinner


Oct 18, 2007, 6:20 PM
Post #278 of 2012 (7348 views)
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Re: [lovesclimbing] Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbers Information Hub. [In reply to]
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lovesclimbing wrote:
Hey I know this is a bit off topic but has anyone here done Freakout on Yam or know anything about it aside from whats in the book.

The first time I was on it..
I was following my partner on *our* third pitch (nothing to do with the actual 3rd pitch), I think it was somewhere around where the guide says "climb shallow corner to right NOT left" that my dyslexic partner went left. I think we ended up over towards "The Bolt Nazi" (before it existed). My partner finally realized (admitted) he was lost by proclaiming from his hanging A2 stance, "this ain't no fvcking 5.9!!!".

No shit Sherlock.

2 more attempts over the next couple years before we actually made it, topping out around 11:00 PM.
To this day I'm not sure if we climbed the exact route as per the FA. We seemed to have wanderd around a lot more then the guide describes.

*Apparently*, there is a lot more fixed-bail gear in place now and the route is somewhat more defined.

As far as guide books go, I prefer the 1971 route description, far more accurate Wink



Freak Out
155 m, 5.4+++++
B.Davidson & J.Horne, July 1971

pitch-1) 50 m, -. The molten pitch (you’ll understand).
pitch-2) 30 m, -. The dangerous pitch
pitch-3) 40 m, -. The devious pitch
pitch-4) 35 m, -. The scary pitch
-loose and strenuous
-serious and intimidating reputation,
-It is an adventure climb
-recommended for anyone possessing lots of experience with route finding, loose rock and an ability to ferret out good gear placements.



If you memorize this, you'll have no problem.
I've highlighted the key points Wink

start left of a large detached flake. 5.2
huge rack is suggested (you’ll use it all!)
belay will depend upon personal judgement and/or when you run out of gear.
Surmount the overhang onto a steep wall, 5.4+
make an awkward move left 5.4
sloping ledge in a corner 5.4
loose wall. (retreat bolt located to the right) 5.4+
delicately climb the blocky wall 5.4+
climb a short crack 5.4+
step left into corner right of dirty yellow crack 5.4
climb shallow corner to right NOT left, 5.4+
traverse right 5.4+
climb steep wall to corner 5.4++
climb right through a shattered bulge 5.4+
step right into the corner. 5.4
Climb steep section to a small ledge (left). 5.4
Move right past bulging corner 5.4
claw your way up shattered gangway leading right 5.4-
Step down 5.4
traverse right 5.4+
take shallow corner to squat slab 5.4
traverse right-hand 5.4+
climb over an obscure flake 5.4+
make awkward move right 5.4++
Climb steep wall to roof 5.4+++
step right 5.4+
go up corner/gear crack and over a roof 5.4++++
pedelum right to small ledge A0
Traverse right 5.4
mantle 5.4+
Climb steep crack 5.4+
over bulge 5.4+
finish. 5.4
Descent 5.9



Maybe all the loose rock hase been cleaned off by now..
Good Luck Laugh


lovesclimbing


Oct 18, 2007, 6:27 PM
Post #279 of 2012 (7347 views)
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Re: [skinner] Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbers Information Hub. [In reply to]
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Hey thanks for the bit of info, I'm surpised that you were on that climb 3 trimes, must be getting close to THE 34 I think sometime that you are in Canmore I'll have to buy a couple of beer and ask a couple more questions.


(This post was edited by lovesclimbing on Oct 18, 2007, 6:28 PM)


rockguide


Oct 18, 2007, 7:34 PM
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Re: [lovesclimbing] Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbers Information Hub. [In reply to]
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lovesclimbing wrote:
Hey thanks for the bit of info, I'm surpised that you were on that climb 3 trimes, must be getting close to THE 34 I think sometime that you are in Canmore I'll have to buy a couple of beer and ask a couple more questions.

You are always welcome to join us in Calgary as well!

B


lovesclimbing


Oct 18, 2007, 7:54 PM
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Thats what happens when your lazy like my self but I might get up off my fat ass and take you up on that,


skinner


Oct 19, 2007, 8:09 PM
Post #282 of 2012 (7302 views)
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Re: [lovesclimbing] Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbers Information Hub. [In reply to]
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The Kallen 34 is still a little ways away, maybe next summer if I can get over how much I despise the approach Mad

Yes, come on in and join us for a beer and we'll swap some lies with you.


skinner


Oct 20, 2007, 3:08 AM
Post #283 of 2012 (7296 views)
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Re: [Wed Oct. 24th] Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbers Information Hub. [In reply to]
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copied from the Found Gear: I have your Bolts and Pitons thread.

skinner wrote:
Speaking of.. Is it Limericks next Wednesday? They have a huge beer selection, I remeber the food being OK, lots of TV's all over the place playing a rugby and/or soccer match I was only there once, a few years ago but doubt it's changed much, Regaurdless, it would fit right into our ongoing Bow Valley Tour de Pub.


lovesclimbing


Oct 20, 2007, 8:38 PM
Post #284 of 2012 (7276 views)
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Anyone get out today? Anyone headed out tomorrow?


rockie


Oct 20, 2007, 9:49 PM
Post #285 of 2012 (7273 views)
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Hi Skinner,
not been on here for over a week at least Unsure

Came on to 4 messages, and no warning of them sent to my email addy either, which was odd.

Anyway, you been out ice climbing yet? Must be snow in Alberta now?

Rain here, all it does is rain, flip me, I thought England was bad, here is much worse for rain. Does it ever stop? Unimpressed


skinner


Oct 20, 2007, 10:20 PM
Post #286 of 2012 (7268 views)
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Re: [rockie] Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbers Information Hub. [In reply to]
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rockie wrote:
Hi Skinner,
Anyway, you been out ice climbing yet? Must be snow in Alberta now?

Shhh.. don't even say that word, plan on freezing my (_|_) off on the rocks for a little while yet.


rockie wrote:
Rain here, all it does is rain, flip me, I thought England was bad, here is much worse for rain. Does it ever stop? Unimpressed

Well, err.. that's why they call it a "Rain Forest".

I asked the same question around March when I first moved there, they told me, "Oh it's starts getting nice in April"

April = rain
"Oh it's usually nice in May"
May=rain
"Oh it's always nice by June"
June=rain
"Well it will definately bes nice in July"
It stopped raining on July 22

September was nice though! Wink


climb_eng


Oct 21, 2007, 11:19 PM
Post #287 of 2012 (7251 views)
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Re: [skinner] Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbers Information Hub. [In reply to]
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Trip Report - Extreme 5.4 Climbers - CCC.

Today, some of us 5.4 climbers were lazy. Cathy and I bailed on climbing when we found out it was overcast in the mountains. Heather rode her steed, Sean worked.... in the evening Heather, Cathy, Sean and myself headed for the CCC. Fun was had by all. I found out that after 4 months of not climbing, I can barely get up a 5.4... I'm sore. Heather schooled everyone with her excellent 5.4++++++ moves... Sean did a lot of talking, but not too much climbing (sound familiar anyone??). JP and Cathy puttered around trying to learn how to climb again.

You think trip reports about the gym are lame?!? Well, yes they are... very lame. But it's the best I can do today.

I am afraid I will be missing Limericks as I'm going to be on my way to climb in South Lake Tahoe for the weekend (mmmmm.... Cali Granite!) I'll try and provide a good trip report.


skinner


Oct 22, 2007, 12:08 AM
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Re: [climb_eng] Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbers Information Hub. [In reply to]
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Well... I KNOW that our Trip Report will pale in comparison to JP's (who never called me at 8:00 this morning), but here is the condensed version, so as not to bore you all..



























RC.com Climbers:
(from left to right)
the_climber, crag_dawg, young_gun















to save the poor climber from an inattentive belayer who appears to have paided out ample penalty slack.
















Which of course means that we are on our way back down, and the end of this TR (told you it was the condensed version)



Story and Photos, by outstanding Mountain Photo-Journalist -skinner





(This post was edited by skinner on Oct 22, 2007, 1:08 AM)


rockie


Oct 22, 2007, 3:52 AM
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Re: [skinner] Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbers Information Hub. [In reply to]
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Re: Well, err.. that's why they call it a "Rain Forest".

I asked the same question around March when I first moved there, they told me, "Oh it's starts getting nice in April"

April = rain
"Oh it's usually nice in May"
May=rain
"Oh it's always nice by June"
June=rain
"Well it will definately bes nice in July"
It stopped raining on July 22


oooh Steady on cowboy (sorry) you're no cowboy are you Tongue, there wasn't much rain last mar - August I know that much, and lol! Yes September was nice, that was the last of the good weather. Indoor walls for me until the rain and cold season are over in that case Unsure

Ski season is nearly upon us, which I am looking forward to, will substitute climbing for skiing until the wet and cold weather disappear. Cypress, Whistler, Mount Baker, and... "Colarado"

I am off to Steamboat next month, check this out:
http://www.evite.com/pages/invite/viewInvite.jsp?inviteId=YEXGYNZBEHLJEDOLERBL&li=iq&src=email&trk=aei6

$160 for 2 nights accom, 2 days skiing, big party! and $258 return flight from Seattle to Denver, direct booking with Alaska airline. Why does it cost over $200 to fly from Vancouver??? Seattle is just 3 hrs away from here, and worth it for a lower rate.

BTW Don't drink latte before bedtime, it keeps you up when you should be asleep! Shocked

p.s love the dog in the above pic, that's my kinda dog Smile


(This post was edited by rockie on Oct 22, 2007, 4:07 AM)


climb_eng


Oct 22, 2007, 5:49 AM
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skinner wrote:
Well... I KNOW that our Trip Report will pale in comparison to JP's (who never called me at 8:00 this morning), but here is the condensed version, so as not to bore you all..

Touche Blush. Though I guess it would be yesterday morning.


skinner


Oct 22, 2007, 6:03 AM
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Well it is now Tongue


jumpingrock


Oct 22, 2007, 7:11 AM
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Yammy was overcast and windy, but after dragging our sorry asses outta bed we were able to make it to the cliff. Awful headaches affected the hike, but we were able to make it up to the cliff. A quick, somewhat cold jaunt up windy slabs preceeded the scree ride back to the car. We had enough energy left to play a game of soccer in the evening.


climb_eng


Oct 22, 2007, 7:58 AM
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Brrrr... sounds cold.


darkside


Oct 22, 2007, 11:17 AM
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the_climber


Oct 22, 2007, 11:22 AM
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darkside wrote:
Hmmm and here I was sat at home doing fuck all thinking everyone else was too, judging by the almost absence of replies.
Unsure

An absence of replies would likely mean we weren't near a computer or phone and likely in the mountains. I thought you would have gone ice hunting if you had nothing to do.

darkside wrote:
Kinda makes getting together on Wednesdays a waste of time eh?

It's never a waste of time. Didn't you once claim that you never pass up an opertunity to drink beer?


climb_eng


Oct 22, 2007, 12:47 PM
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For the more adventurous and spontanious 5.4 climbers out there....

If you want to come enjoy Cali Granite with myself and Cathy this coming Sunday and Monday it IS possible. Plane tickets from Calgary (one way) to Sacramento, CA are only $411.06 all in. We can pick you up, then take you climbing in South Lake Tahoe for Sunday and Monday, then bring you back to Calgary in time for work on Wednesday.

Please contact me if you're crazy enough to come. I need to know by Wednesday whether or not your coming so I can load or remove my rear passenger seats.

-JP


skinner


Oct 23, 2007, 9:43 PM
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Wednesday Oct.24.07

Limericks

7304 Macleod Trail South
Calgary, AB T2H-0L9






See ya'll there.. 8:00'ish?


lhwang


Oct 24, 2007, 8:20 AM
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jumpingrock wrote:
Yammy was overcast and windy, but after dragging our sorry asses outta bed we were able to make it to the cliff. Awful headaches affected the hike, but we were able to make it up to the cliff. A quick, somewhat cold jaunt up windy slabs preceeded the scree ride back to the car. We had enough energy left to play a game of soccer in the evening.

We saw your names in the register on Sunday... we went bouldering at Big Choss.


the_climber


Oct 24, 2007, 8:25 AM
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I'll be at Limericks at 8pm... Hold the Phone! There's a Flames game tonight... OK so they don't have a cover charge listed on their wed site (they usually have them all listed), and it's televised tonight also. So, it shouldn't be a problem, but I'll call them at lunch and make sure. So still Limericks. I'll be there at 8pm.


(This post was edited by the_climber on Oct 24, 2007, 8:32 AM)


the_climber


Oct 24, 2007, 8:33 AM
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lhwang wrote:
We saw your names in the register on Sunday... we went bouldering at Big Choss.

Hey lhwang, you going to show up this week?

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