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zeke_sf


Nov 1, 2007, 3:42 PM
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Re: [jt512] Sigh, back on the soapbox [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=UlcQ3mxlNfs

Dreamcatcher, with the crux holds well ticked.

Good video, which demonstrates a number of bad habits, according to knowledgeable rc.com users: pre-clipped first bolt; project draws left hanging; 3-inch tick marks on hand holds; clipping overhead instead of at the waist; flashy, but otherwise useless dynos. An invalid, unethical ascent for so many reasons.

Jay

Some might call it a spiritual crime....I thought the clipping at the waist was a total gym construct? That's the only place I've heard of that as a no-no, anyway.

So, he's going to be interviewed on NPR tonight and they are billing him as the world's best rock climber. My wife was telling me this on the phone, and I had a good chuckle when she told me his quote: "Sometime you've got to be aggro." Ahh, Chris. Not one with the words, is he?


zeke_sf


Nov 1, 2007, 3:42 PM
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Re: [zeke_sf] Sigh, back on the soapbox [In reply to]
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zeke_sf wrote:
jt512 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=UlcQ3mxlNfs

Dreamcatcher, with the crux holds well ticked.

Good video, which demonstrates a number of bad habits, according to knowledgeable rc.com users: pre-clipped first bolt; project draws left hanging; 3-inch tick marks on hand holds; clipping overhead instead of at the waist; flashy, but otherwise useless dynos. An invalid, unethical ascent for so many reasons.

Jay

Some might call it a spiritual crime....I thought the clipping at the waist was a total gym construct? That's the only place I've heard of that as a no-no, anyway.

So, he's going to be interviewed on NPR tonight and they are billing him as the world's best rock climber. My wife was telling me this on the phone, and I had a good chuckle when she told me his quote: "Sometime you've got to be aggro." Ahh, Chris. Not one with the words, is he?

PTFTW!!!!


scotchie


Nov 1, 2007, 3:48 PM
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Re: [jt512] Sigh, back on the soapbox [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
I don't know how long this link will be live for,

Only as long as you keep resurrecting the thread. Oh, I just resurrected it again. DOH!


(This post was edited by scotchie on Nov 1, 2007, 5:19 PM)


notapplicable


Nov 1, 2007, 5:25 PM
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Re: [jt512] Sigh, back on the soapbox [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=UlcQ3mxlNfs

Dreamcatcher, with the crux holds well ticked.

Good video, which demonstrates a number of bad habits, according to knowledgeable rc.com users: pre-clipped first bolt; project draws left hanging; 3-inch tick marks on hand holds; clipping overhead instead of at the waist; flashy, but otherwise useless dynos. An invalid, unethical ascent for so many reasons.

Jay

I see you finally came to your senses Jay. How's life as an enlightened man finding you?


Partner j_ung


Nov 2, 2007, 5:37 AM
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zeke_sf wrote:
So, he's going to be interviewed on NPR tonight and they are billing him as the world's best rock climber. My wife was telling me this on the phone, and I had a good chuckle when she told me his quote: "Sometime you've got to be aggro." Ahh, Chris. Not one with the words, is he?

It looks pretty stupid in print, but I heard the interview and, when he said it, it came off as self-depreciating. In fact, I thought, all in all, he sounded polite, intelligent and down to Earth. Most importantly, he went out of his way on several occasions to point out that he wouldn't be where he was in the sport were it not for the accomplishments of those who came before him "Standing on their shoulders," were his words, I believe.


stymingersfink


Nov 2, 2007, 8:35 AM
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Re: [jt512] Sigh, back on the soapbox [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=UlcQ3mxlNfs

Dreamcatcher, with the crux holds well ticked.

Good video, which demonstrates a number of bad habits, according to knowledgeable rc.com users: pre-clipped first bolt; project draws left hanging; 3-inch tick marks on hand holds; clipping overhead instead of at the waist; flashy, but otherwise useless dynos. An invalid, unethical ascent for so many reasons.

Jay
You forgot worthless heel-hooks on an easy A1 line...Wink


wanderlustmd


Nov 2, 2007, 8:41 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Sigh, back on the soapbox [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
So, he's going to be interviewed on NPR tonight and they are billing him as the world's best rock climber. My wife was telling me this on the phone, and I had a good chuckle when she told me his quote: "Sometime you've got to be aggro." Ahh, Chris. Not one with the words, is he?

It looks pretty stupid in print, but I heard the interview and, when he said it, it came off as self-depreciating. In fact, I thought, all in all, he sounded polite, intelligent and down to Earth. Most importantly, he went out of his way on several occasions to point out that he wouldn't be where he was in the sport were it not for the accomplishments of those who came before him "Standing on their shoulders," were his words, I believe.

Yeah, anyone who's read any interview or seen any film involving him knows that he's pretty grounded, especially in relation to his achievements. Anyone who badmouths him as being arrogant....:roll:


desertwanderer81


Nov 2, 2007, 8:56 AM
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http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=15825820


dingus


Nov 2, 2007, 8:57 AM
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Well hell they seem to have cut the part of that vid where he went back and actually cleaned up his tick marks!

DMT


Partner artm


Nov 2, 2007, 9:03 AM
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jt512 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=UlcQ3mxlNfs

Dreamcatcher, with the crux holds well ticked.

Good video, which demonstrates a number of bad habits, according to knowledgeable rc.com users: pre-clipped first bolt; project draws left hanging; 3-inch tick marks on hand holds; clipping overhead instead of at the waist; flashy, but otherwise useless dynos. An invalid, unethical ascent for so many reasons.

Jay
OMG!!!
it's a spiritual crime!


Carnage


Nov 6, 2007, 1:12 PM
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at least they made it a bit of a challenge by giving him a few ticks to choose from


paintrain


Mar 7, 2008, 8:05 PM
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Re: [angry] Sigh, back on the soapbox [In reply to]
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Has anyone seen alpinist 23??

Is that a spread based on the OP incident?

I find it obscene to do photoshoots of people soloing, but I guess people watch nascar for the crashes.

Pt


notapplicable


Mar 8, 2008, 7:23 AM
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paintrain wrote:
Has anyone seen alpinist 23??

Is that a spread based on the OP incident?

I find it obscene to do photoshoots of people soloing, but I guess people watch nascar for the crashes.

Pt

Were you born an asshole or did you have to work hard to get to where you are today?


paintrain


Mar 8, 2008, 5:27 PM
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Cultivation. Years of careful cultivation.

What's the matter? You watch Nascar?

pt


notapplicable


Mar 8, 2008, 8:16 PM
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paintrain wrote:
Cultivation. Years of careful cultivation.

What's the matter? You watch Nascar?

pt


Well its nice to see that you are accomplishing your goals in life.

Nascar? No it makes me dizzy and bored.

Soloing on the other hand gives me the pleasure.Smile


mecalekahi-mekahidyho


Mar 10, 2008, 8:10 PM
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soapbox thingymabobber. [In reply to]
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From what I see, this shit is all he said she said bullshit. (like the song) haha. IMO, ticks suck. My whole reason for climbing is to conquer something using all of the tools at my disposal. If I neglect any one of these tools, I am robbing from my experience and progression. Lets say I do use ticks, if there is even a chance that someone will climb after me and not like ticks I am going to wash the shit off out of respect for the other climber, whether he/she is a douchebag doesnt matter, they are only a climber on the rock. If not ticking something means I have to learn a new move, awesome, that is my ultimate goal, that will just make the next problem/route more effortless or I will have more tools in my arsenal. As for quantity, over quality, IMO is retarted. I could spend all day on a few difficult problems/routes where ticks may help, and still have just as much fun without ticking.I am not against a companion shouting beta that has just been distinguished that day through our effort, but ticking is gay IMO.I just wanna have fun and improve. oh and JT is a douchebag, if you have been climbing for so long and you still cant do shit, IMO you have no room to talk. He will never admit to being wrong, that is just him. He is the One-upper. Ive been climbing for 9 months and have soloed a 5.12a, pardon the spray everyone else, but eat shit JT, please killfile me and plonk me all you want.


moose_droppings


Mar 10, 2008, 9:17 PM
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Re: [mecalekahi-mekahidyho] soapbox thingymabobber. [In reply to]
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mecalekahi-mekahidyho wrote:
From what I see, this shit is all he said she said bullshit. (like the song) haha. IMO, ticks suck. My whole reason for climbing is to conquer something using all of the tools at my disposal. If I neglect any one of these tools, I am robbing from my experience and progression. Lets say I do use ticks, if there is even a chance that someone will climb after me and not like ticks I am going to wash the shit off out of respect for the other climber, whether he/she is a douchebag doesnt matter, they are only a climber on the rock. If not ticking something means I have to learn a new move, awesome, that is my ultimate goal, that will just make the next problem/route more effortless or I will have more tools in my arsenal. As for quantity, over quality, IMO is retarted. I could spend all day on a few difficult problems/routes where ticks may help, and still have just as much fun without ticking.I am not against a companion shouting beta that has just been distinguished that day through our effort, but ticking is gay IMO.I just wanna have fun and improve. oh and JT is a douchebag, if you have been climbing for so long and you still cant do shit, IMO you have no room to talk. He will never admit to being wrong, that is just him. He is the One-upper. Ive been climbing for 9 months and have soloed a 5.12a, pardon the spray everyone else, but eat shit JT, please killfile me and plonk me all you want.

So what is it your trying to say?

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