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NSFW
Oct 2, 2007, 12:05 AM
Post #101 of 149
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PTFTW
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NSFW
Oct 2, 2007, 12:05 AM
Post #102 of 149
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w00t!
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majid_sabet
Oct 2, 2007, 12:15 AM
Post #103 of 149
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caughtinside you are pushing on page 5 and I bet by the end of the year, this will pass page 11
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climb_plastic
Oct 2, 2007, 12:43 AM
Post #104 of 149
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NSFW wrote: Can we at least agree that all chalk bags are the same? Nope
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chossmonkey
Oct 2, 2007, 12:57 AM
Post #105 of 149
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artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: j_ung wrote: artm wrote: j_ung wrote: artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: crackers wrote: Troll of the Year Award! I think though that a post "all cams are the same!" would get even more vitriol going... congrats, caughtinside, you've done masterful work here! heh heh, thanks dude. But, like all good trolls, it's got a large kernel of truth in it. BTW, got my 30L v1, LOVE IT! That pack is bad ass! I would never say all packs are the same. Now climbing shoes on the other hand, all the same. THey're all just leather and rubber, right? I agree, climbing shoes are all the same. It's the Climber not the shoe. Sure... if you completely discount the importance of fit and terrain-appropriate lasts. I've lead an 11b sport route (completely wired) in approach shoes. It's the climber not the shoe. Can you make the same claim onsighting? I also wear approach shoes on well-wired warm ups, but it's the well-wired part that negates at least some of the claim, IMO. I've onsighted 5.10 trad in approach shoes. Art you are absolutely right. I climb in my approach shoes all the time. Sometimes I find they even climb better than my real climbing shoes. They are super comfy on long routes too. It does really piss people off though when you burn them off on a route in your approach shoes that they can't do in their climbing shoes. It's even funner when they're your friends and you can rub their noses in it constantly. You do need to be careful not to piss them off to much or they might not belay for you anymore.
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quiteatingmysteak
Oct 2, 2007, 5:05 PM
Post #106 of 149
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chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: j_ung wrote: artm wrote: j_ung wrote: artm wrote: caughtinside wrote: crackers wrote: Troll of the Year Award! I think though that a post "all cams are the same!" would get even more vitriol going... congrats, caughtinside, you've done masterful work here! heh heh, thanks dude. But, like all good trolls, it's got a large kernel of truth in it. BTW, got my 30L v1, LOVE IT! That pack is bad ass! I would never say all packs are the same. Now climbing shoes on the other hand, all the same. THey're all just leather and rubber, right? I agree, climbing shoes are all the same. It's the Climber not the shoe. Sure... if you completely discount the importance of fit and terrain-appropriate lasts. I've lead an 11b sport route (completely wired) in approach shoes. It's the climber not the shoe. Can you make the same claim onsighting? I also wear approach shoes on well-wired warm ups, but it's the well-wired part that negates at least some of the claim, IMO. I've onsighted 5.10 trad in approach shoes. Art you are absolutely right. I climb in my approach shoes all the time. Sometimes I find they even climb better than my real climbing shoes. They are super comfy on long routes too. It does really piss people off though when you burn them off on a route in your approach shoes that they can't do in their climbing shoes. It's even funner when they're your friends and you can rub their noses in it constantly. You do need to be careful not to piss them off to much or they might not belay for you anymore. Yah.
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NSFW
Oct 2, 2007, 5:36 PM
Post #107 of 149
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majid_sabet wrote: caughtinside you are pushing on page 5 and I bet by the end of the year, this will pass page 11 He's mEATbanzed, he can't read this, nor post... otherwise I'm sure we'd be on 11 by now.
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davidji
Oct 2, 2007, 5:41 PM
Post #108 of 149
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roy_hinkley_jr wrote: Learn how sheath tension affects handling and durability. Learn why a Z-only sheath is cheaper but it's a bad tradeoff. Searched but couldn't find the first. For the second, all the discussion I found on Z-twist was about the core, and I don't know how you'd tell if the core had balanced twisting or not--would a manufacturer tell you if they had Z-only twists. The single vs double pic stuff was interesting. I've only had 2 ropes with a single pic sheath, and they kinked too easily, and wore too quickly. You might start a different thread to explain more about rope construction--the information would get buried in this one. Hopefully we'd also hear from sterlingjim. Met him last week, which was an opportunity to learn a little.
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NSFW
Oct 2, 2007, 5:42 PM
Post #109 of 149
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climb_plastic wrote: NSFW wrote: Can we at least agree that all chalk bags are the same? Nope Which chalk bag is best for climbing plastic?
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majid_sabet
Oct 2, 2007, 5:45 PM
Post #110 of 149
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NSFW wrote: majid_sabet wrote: caughtinside you are pushing on page 5 and I bet by the end of the year, this will pass page 11 He's mEATbanzed, he can't read this, nor post... otherwise I'm sure we'd be on 11 by now. is he banned from RC gear ?
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NSFW
Oct 2, 2007, 5:47 PM
Post #111 of 149
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majid_sabet wrote: NSFW wrote: majid_sabet wrote: caughtinside you are pushing on page 5 and I bet by the end of the year, this will pass page 11 He's mEATbanzed, he can't read this, nor post... otherwise I'm sure we'd be on 11 by now. is he banned from RC gear ? Yup, but he told me to tell you he said hi, and that he's wearing his helmet.
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slablizard
Oct 2, 2007, 5:54 PM
Post #112 of 149
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my approach shoes can REALLY climb well...even if I am wearing them ;)
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ericbeyeler
Oct 2, 2007, 6:57 PM
Post #113 of 149
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As a mostly trad climber somewhat heavier than the idealized 80 kg dead weight, I look for a rope with lower impact force. It can mean the difference between the last piece popping or not. Low impact force, lowest rope stretch are big factors for me, but I also take into account handling (stiffness), diameter. If it weren't for the apparent sheath problems, my next rope would have been the new Petzl. The Beals are next in line. Eric
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majid_sabet
Oct 2, 2007, 7:07 PM
Post #114 of 149
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NSFW wrote: majid_sabet wrote: NSFW wrote: majid_sabet wrote: caughtinside you are pushing on page 5 and I bet by the end of the year, this will pass page 11 He's mEATbanzed, he can't read this, nor post... otherwise I'm sure we'd be on 11 by now. is he banned from RC gear ? Yup, but he told me to tell you he said hi, and that he's wearing his helmet. What, they wrote him a ticket for trolling ?
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artm
Oct 2, 2007, 7:13 PM
Post #115 of 149
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majid_sabet wrote: NSFW wrote: majid_sabet wrote: NSFW wrote: majid_sabet wrote: caughtinside you are pushing on page 5 and I bet by the end of the year, this will pass page 11 He's mEATbanzed, he can't read this, nor post... otherwise I'm sure we'd be on 11 by now. is he banned from RC gear ? Yup, but he told me to tell you he said hi, and that he's wearing his helmet. What, they wrote him a ticket for trolling ? You're like a child that wanders into a movie and wants to know.........
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decorator_crab
Oct 2, 2007, 7:33 PM
Post #116 of 149
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caughtinside wrote: Heh. It's true. I've been climbing for 6 years now, just enough to spout off about my ignorance. And what I have discovered is that all ropes are THE SAME. There are only a couple differences. bi-color, diameter and length. Oh yeah, and dry. What I'm saying is that brand doesn't matter. # of falls doesn't matter. Impact force is a # made up by the travelocity roaming Gnome, denouncer of travel myths. I don't want to hear about elongation, because they all stretch. If they're skinny, they stretch more. People have their favorite brands. Mammut seems to be the most common favorite brand. It also seems to be the most expensive. Big surprise! I've used mammuts. Nothing special! I've currently got 4 ropes in active duty, and they're all the same. Sure, I have a favorite, but it's cause its pretty. and skinny. And light. And I climbed with it in Thailand, got some fond memories. But it isn't better than any of my other ropes. People talk about the 'hand' of a rope. Personally, I couldn't care less. I've used stiff ropes. I've used noodle ropes. My favorites are somewhere in between these extremes, but really I don't care. I've heard it claimed that some ropes twist easier than other ropes. This is more bullshit. You rigged an anchor wrong, deal with it. I've done it and jacked some ropes. It's fixable. Anyway, that is my conclusion after years of emprical study and anecdotal research. I buy the cheapest ropes I can find. A good belay is the important thing. Another know it all n00b idiot! I love this frikkin site, with all the n00bs who have been climbing ten minutes and think they know shit about shit. All ropes the same? Give me a break. Maxims are CHOSS. Edelrids are CHOSS. Stiff, heavy, fuzzy, pain to belay with. Beals are nice but wear out way too fast. There are only a couple brands of rope that are worth the money, Mammut and Sterling. Any real climber already knows this or figured it out pretty quickly. You gumbys and your discount ropes. You get what you pay for.
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majid_sabet
Oct 2, 2007, 7:52 PM
Post #117 of 149
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decorator_crab wrote: caughtinside wrote: Heh. It's true. I've been climbing for 6 years now, just enough to spout off about my ignorance. And what I have discovered is that all ropes are THE SAME. There are only a couple differences. bi-color, diameter and length. Oh yeah, and dry. What I'm saying is that brand doesn't matter. # of falls doesn't matter. Impact force is a # made up by the travelocity roaming Gnome, denouncer of travel myths. I don't want to hear about elongation, because they all stretch. If they're skinny, they stretch more. People have their favorite brands. Mammut seems to be the most common favorite brand. It also seems to be the most expensive. Big surprise! I've used mammuts. Nothing special! I've currently got 4 ropes in active duty, and they're all the same. Sure, I have a favorite, but it's cause its pretty. and skinny. And light. And I climbed with it in Thailand, got some fond memories. But it isn't better than any of my other ropes. People talk about the 'hand' of a rope. Personally, I couldn't care less. I've used stiff ropes. I've used noodle ropes. My favorites are somewhere in between these extremes, but really I don't care. I've heard it claimed that some ropes twist easier than other ropes. This is more bullshit. You rigged an anchor wrong, deal with it. I've done it and jacked some ropes. It's fixable. Anyway, that is my conclusion after years of emprical study and anecdotal research. I buy the cheapest ropes I can find. A good belay is the important thing. Another know it all n00b idiot! I love this frikkin site, with all the n00bs who have been climbing ten minutes and think they know shit about shit. All ropes the same? Give me a break. Maxims are CHOSS. Edelrids are CHOSS. Stiff, heavy, fuzzy, pain to belay with. Beals are nice but wear out way too fast. There are only a couple brands of rope that are worth the money, Mammut and Sterling. Any real climber already knows this or figured it out pretty quickly. You gumbys and your discount ropes. You get what you pay for. You forgot to tell them that Mammut is been around since 1800 making ropes.
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Carnage
Oct 2, 2007, 8:03 PM
Post #118 of 149
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decorator_crab wrote: caughtinside wrote: Heh. It's true. I've been climbing for 6 years now, just enough to spout off about my ignorance. And what I have discovered is that all ropes are THE SAME. There are only a couple differences. bi-color, diameter and length. Oh yeah, and dry. What I'm saying is that brand doesn't matter. # of falls doesn't matter. Impact force is a # made up by the travelocity roaming Gnome, denouncer of travel myths. I don't want to hear about elongation, because they all stretch. If they're skinny, they stretch more. People have their favorite brands. Mammut seems to be the most common favorite brand. It also seems to be the most expensive. Big surprise! I've used mammuts. Nothing special! I've currently got 4 ropes in active duty, and they're all the same. Sure, I have a favorite, but it's cause its pretty. and skinny. And light. And I climbed with it in Thailand, got some fond memories. But it isn't better than any of my other ropes. People talk about the 'hand' of a rope. Personally, I couldn't care less. I've used stiff ropes. I've used noodle ropes. My favorites are somewhere in between these extremes, but really I don't care. I've heard it claimed that some ropes twist easier than other ropes. This is more bullshit. You rigged an anchor wrong, deal with it. I've done it and jacked some ropes. It's fixable. Anyway, that is my conclusion after years of emprical study and anecdotal research. I buy the cheapest ropes I can find. A good belay is the important thing. Another know it all n00b idiot! I love this frikkin site, with all the n00bs who have been climbing ten minutes and think they know shit about shit. All ropes the same? Give me a break. Maxims are CHOSS. Edelrids are CHOSS. Stiff, heavy, fuzzy, pain to belay with. Beals are nice but wear out way too fast. There are only a couple brands of rope that are worth the money, Mammut and Sterling. Any real climber already knows this or figured it out pretty quickly. You gumbys and your discount ropes. You get what you pay for. i know test results are directly proportionaly to rope durability, but how come beal ropes have like 10+ and sterlings have like 6-8. Mammut are somewhere in the middle side note: beals also have a much lower impact force on average
(This post was edited by Carnage on Oct 2, 2007, 8:04 PM)
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chossmonkey
Oct 2, 2007, 11:22 PM
Post #120 of 149
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j_ung wrote: artm wrote: I've onsighted 5.10 trad in approach shoes. Sorry, fellas, but unless you climb in approach shoes all the time, you're proving my point. Do you climb in the same pair of shoes all the time? Obviously approach shoes won't work well with thin cracks. But it is more a question of bulk than fit. The same with routes with very techy footwork. Its not that they won't stick to those tiny edges. You just can't see where the hell they are under all that shoe.
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artm
Oct 3, 2007, 1:22 AM
Post #121 of 149
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chossmonkey wrote: j_ung wrote: artm wrote: I've onsighted 5.10 trad in approach shoes. Sorry, fellas, but unless you climb in approach shoes all the time, you're proving my point. Do you climb in the same pair of shoes all the time? Obviously approach shoes won't work well with thin cracks. But it is more a question of bulk than fit. The same with routes with very techy footwork. Its not that they won't stick to those tiny edges. You just can't see where the hell they are under all that shoe. [image]http://www.climbeasterncanada.com/images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif[/image] It's the climber not the shoe damnit!
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billcoe_
Oct 5, 2007, 3:40 AM
Post #122 of 149
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My thoughts, can't really seriously disagree with Caughtinside: Size matters. Price matters. Having a middle mark matters. I think anecdotally at least, having a dry rope is better as it increases the slickness of the rope (especially Teflon and slick waxy coatings), making it less likely to cut. Now with that being said: _____________________________________________________
hotgemini wrote: .... Currently I've got 20 ropes in the 10-10.5mm size range. Representing 9 models from 7 different manufacturers. That figure goes up to 24 ropes of 10 different models if you include the retired ropes and will go up to 26 ropes of 11 different models once the ropes I've got on pre-order arrive. My thoughts on this thread are as follows; Its largely a troll desperate for attention. What the OP is actually trying to say is that in his personal opinion cost is the most important factor in his rope selection. He repeatedly acknowledges the existance of other differences between ropes but then dismisses them as irrelevant. I do agree with the sentiment that its very hard for the climber 'on-the-street' to form any sort of informed opinion about the relative merits of different ropes. My experience in my "buy (at least) two of every 10.5mm-ish rope on the market and treat them all equally" experiment tells me that there are significant differences between ropes, enough that at I'd probably spend up to 35% more on my personal rope, but only because I know what I know from hands on experience. The experiment continues, but I'm now to the point of having to buy ropes from the states and ship them to Australia to get different models. Well you take gearwhoring to a whole nother lever sir! What are your rope preferences and why?
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robdotcalm
Oct 5, 2007, 3:48 AM
Post #123 of 149
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«I think anecdotally at least, having a dry rope is better as it increases the slickness of the rope (especially Teflon and slick waxy coatings), making it less likely to cut. » That's one of the more remarkable statements made on rc.com, which is not easy to do considering the number of remarkable things that have been written on this site. cheers, r.c
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hotgemini
Oct 5, 2007, 10:33 AM
Post #124 of 149
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billcoe_ wrote: Well you take gearwhoring to a whole nother lever sir! What are your rope preferences and why? Fortunately for my bank balance its not mine, I'm quartermaster for a small university rockclimbing club. We just figured that being independant from the usual commercial influences that we might as well run the experiment. I know what ropes have performed well so far, but it wouldn't be fair to cast judgement for perhaps another nine to twelve months once everything has got some kilometrage under its belt. I tried emailing climbing magazine to see if they wanted an article on the results but never got a reply.
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billcoe_
Oct 5, 2007, 4:46 PM
Post #125 of 149
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hotgemini wrote: billcoe_ wrote: Well you take gearwhoring to a whole nother lever sir! What are your rope preferences and why? Fortunately for my bank balance its not mine, I'm quartermaster for a small university rockclimbing club. We just figured that being independant from the usual commercial influences that we might as well run the experiment. I know what ropes have performed well so far, but it wouldn't be fair to cast judgement for perhaps another nine to twelve months once everything has got some kilometrage under its belt. I tried emailing climbing magazine to see if they wanted an article on the results but never got a reply. (spoken in heavily accented German, much like the Nazi who had Dustin Hoffman tied to a chair and was going to drill his teeth with no novacain to find out where the diamonds were in the movie "Running Man") "Und now, I zink you are playing with me" We want to see it We want to see it We want to see it We want to see it if they don't We want to see it We want to see it We want to see it We want to see it We want to see it By the way hotgemini: I had a similar job when I was at University at the Outdoor program, however, the ropes were Goldline. *oldfuck cough* *oldfuck cough*. The extent of my learning about those ropes was that Goldline sucked. In all aspects too: except durability, in that manner they were much like Volvos, you hated the damn things and they kept going, despite your malevolence towards them. Yeah, it was a while ago:-)
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