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paclimber12


Dec 19, 2007, 12:43 PM
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What kind of shoes do you normally wear?
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what kind of shoes do you guys most commonly use when your climbing?

I usually use mens katanas


crimping_bum


Dec 19, 2007, 12:55 PM
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When I first started climbing I wore 5.10 Anasazis as well as a pair of Moccasyms. A friend of mine raved about La Sportiva shoes and I gave them a try. Now I cant think of climbing in anything but my Katanas (I have 2 pair) or my Murias. The powerpoint on that shoe is much better than 5.10 and the asymmetrical rand feels much more comfortable than its American competitor.

I go barefoot too sometimes. Big up to the man upstairs for that one. He makes great shoes.

For approach I use either sandals or simple hiking shoes.


gt29905


Dec 19, 2007, 1:03 PM
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I got nothing but love for those freaky italian foot fetish cobblers over at sportiva! Wink


omalavet


Dec 19, 2007, 1:05 PM
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sportiva


coastal_climber


Dec 19, 2007, 1:30 PM
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SportivaSmile (Muiras)

>Cam


evanwish


Dec 19, 2007, 1:38 PM
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i used to use the La Sportiva "Tradmasters"
wore the sole out of them (will resole soon)

now i use the 5.10 "Piton"


xtremst80


Dec 19, 2007, 1:45 PM
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5.10 work the best for me!


binrat


Dec 19, 2007, 1:55 PM
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sportiva and evolv


Partner angry


Dec 19, 2007, 1:56 PM
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Keds


lithiummetalman


Dec 19, 2007, 2:20 PM
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Scarpas, no scarpa lovers out there?


Partner gandolf


Dec 19, 2007, 2:21 PM
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Indoors - Five Ten Moccasyms
Outdoors - I normally where Evolv Bandits (like them so much they have been resoled twice). I just got a pair of Acopa Chameleon's (a little stiffer than I am used to, but overall a pretty good shoe).


wiki


Dec 19, 2007, 2:33 PM
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Sportiva Katanas are my favourite. Would like to try the female version when they finally start importing them into NZ Tongue


raymondjeffrey


Dec 19, 2007, 3:06 PM
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Demortos. Best shoe ever made for folks with Mortons Toe.


hopperhopper


Dec 19, 2007, 3:10 PM
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i'm an evolv fanboy.


ja1484


Dec 19, 2007, 3:25 PM
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The kind made for feet.


curt


Dec 19, 2007, 3:32 PM
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lithiummetalman wrote:
Scarpas, no scarpa lovers out there?

Scarpas are my favorite--especially after you put 5.10 rubber on them.

Curt


Lokie


Dec 19, 2007, 6:53 PM
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Has anyone tried the new Sportiva Solutions? Do they have the same delam problem the Katanas do?


adrenaline_climber


Dec 20, 2007, 7:43 AM
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for all my bouldering needs i sport solutions they have a good heel though you cant feel it as well as other slip ons but the toe is also full coverage and just as much grip as the bottom. once you get the core for a good roof toe hook itll be all you want to do ^^


yogaclimber


Dec 20, 2007, 8:24 AM
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5.10 mocs mostly,I also like my mad rock hooker ez's.


jh_angel


Dec 20, 2007, 8:33 AM
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Mad Rock Flash's for slab to vertical routes and now Sportiva Solutions for overhangs and non-slab bouldering.


nashvegas


Dec 20, 2007, 8:41 AM
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La Sportiva- Mythos!!!!! Great love goes out to these shoes- I can put them on in the morning and climb all day. :)


subtle


Dec 20, 2007, 8:59 AM
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Lately, 5.10 Dragons. I'm trying to break in a pair of Jet 7s, which seem to be working well so far.

Allez. Homard.


mistajman


Dec 20, 2007, 9:25 AM
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I wear my 4 year old red chili phantoms that have been resoled 4 times, and have had the stitching reinforced twice.


slablizard


Dec 20, 2007, 10:22 AM
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paclimber12 wrote:
what kind of shoes do you guys most commonly use when your climbing?

I usually use mens katanas
La Sportiva:

2 X Venoms

1 Katana

1 Miura


zeth01


Dec 20, 2007, 10:27 AM
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evolv bandit use it everywhere mainly because i lost my defys on a ridge


limeydave


Dec 20, 2007, 2:55 PM
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I can't resist another shoe thread, I tried, but I couldn't do it.

Pontas, there are only two things wrong with them IMO

1) They are way better than I am, so I can never blame my shoes.

2) They suck to heel hook - but it's probably down to the shape of my feet.


climbingaggie03


Dec 24, 2007, 8:39 AM
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5.10 ascents or Boreal zens and spiders


shockabuku


Dec 24, 2007, 8:56 AM
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Not great for heel hooking or smearing but otherwise bomber.Wink




(This post was edited by shockabuku on Dec 24, 2007, 8:56 AM)
Attachments: climbing boots.jpg (12.0 KB)


vegastradguy


Dec 24, 2007, 9:04 AM
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depends on whether i'm testing shoes or not....

personally, though, i dont think shoes make any difference at all for the vast majority of climbers provided they fit your foot correctly.


dlintz


Dec 24, 2007, 9:06 AM
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Evolve Predators for overhanging stuff and heel hooking.

Five Ten Newtons for everything else.

d.


overlord


Dec 25, 2007, 2:22 AM
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i have a pair of old boreal stingers for indoor climbing.

for overhanging stuff i use evolve talons. once you get past 15deg or so they really shine.

but i mostly use 5.10 anasazi laceups.


miavzero


Feb 2, 2008, 4:50 PM
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Comfy Madrock Flashes for splitter cracks up to hands.
Sportiva Katanas for high performance face climbing.
Madrock Hookers for a comfortable gym and casual bouldering shoe.
Sportiva Kaukulators (RIP) for anything wide.
Madrock Super Locos for trick bouldering and steep stuff.


tigerlilly


Feb 2, 2008, 6:35 PM
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raymondjeffrey wrote:
Demortos. Best shoe ever made for folks with Mortons Toe.

I haven't been able to find a pair of these to try on. Would you describe them as narrow, wide or average? Photos make them look a little wide across the ball of the foot, but it's hard to tell.


Hennessey


Feb 2, 2008, 6:58 PM
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Evolv all the way.
Defy was a great shoe but like the Evo even better


superbum


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La Sportiva men's Katanas. I have three diff. sizes...40.5 for bouldering, 41 for cragging, 42 for all day, or alpine.

Ridges and easy pitches I use La Sportiva Exum Ridges.

For boots, all I've used are the La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX.

I do like Acopa rubber though!


redsox5945


Feb 2, 2008, 8:28 PM
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Mad Rock Flashes. They're cheap and I'm not good enough yet to warrant anything more.


vegastradguy


Feb 2, 2008, 8:40 PM
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tigerlilly wrote:
raymondjeffrey wrote:
Demortos. Best shoe ever made for folks with Mortons Toe.

I haven't been able to find a pair of these to try on. Would you describe them as narrow, wide or average? Photos make them look a little wide across the ball of the foot, but it's hard to tell.

mine are a little wider than my mythos in the ball of the foot.

i've found that just about everyone who tries on the demorto really likes it- probably because its designed as a performance shoe with a symmetrical toe box- and while morton's toe folks really like this, its also popular with other folks who dont like their toes scrunched up when they want some power.


kriso9tails


Feb 2, 2008, 9:39 PM
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curt wrote:
lithiummetalman wrote:
Scarpas, no scarpa lovers out there?

Scarpas are my favorite--especially after you put 5.10 rubber on them.

Curt

A little stealth C4 rubber on these and you're set:



I prefer 5.10s but I've had too many pairs with manufacturing defects (combination of bad luck and climbing shoe comapanies, as a generality, having shitty manufacturing standards) so I switched to La Sportiva Katanas. I bought a pair of cheap Mad Rocks as well so i wouldn't trash my Katanas on plastic for no reason. when I went to replace my Katanas with a new pair, I suddenly couldn't find a pair that fit properly, so I reluctantly switched to Vipers because it was all that fit well enough that wasn't a lace-up... but i do have a problem with the Vipers --> Cobras --> Venoms --> Vipers thing that LaSportiva did... make up your bloody minds.

That's the much abridged version of my climbing shoe history, but I don't want to give away the whole thing or else no one will by my thrilling auto-biography titled "My Life in Climbing Shoes" when it comes out this spring.

Shoe threads are the most wonderful thing on the face of the planet.


(This post was edited by kriso9tails on Feb 2, 2008, 9:41 PM)


tigerlilly


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vegastradguy wrote:
tigerlilly wrote:
raymondjeffrey wrote:
Demortos. Best shoe ever made for folks with Mortons Toe.

I haven't been able to find a pair of these to try on. Would you describe them as narrow, wide or average? Photos make them look a little wide across the ball of the foot, but it's hard to tell.

mine are a little wider than my mythos in the ball of the foot.

Bummer. Mythos are almost too wide for me feet, so wider wouldn't be good. Thanks for saving me the time of further searching for a pair.


Hennessey


Feb 3, 2008, 5:57 PM
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I don't know for sure, but I think those sparkling gold high heels are ten times better than my evolv's.


unrooted


Feb 3, 2008, 6:31 PM
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Depends on what I'm climbing:

Trad: Mythos, or mocasyms

Vert Sport: Red Chilli Spirit Velcro (very similar to anasazi Velcro's but much cheaper and don't stink)

Steep sport: Testarossas

Bouldering: Venoms


flint


Feb 3, 2008, 7:46 PM
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curt wrote:
lithiummetalman wrote:
Scarpas, no scarpa lovers out there?

Scarpas are my favorite--especially after you put 5.10 rubber on them.

Curt

bingo

j-


lostparrot


Feb 4, 2008, 5:41 AM
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Evolv Bandits for general purpose
Mad Rock Locos for hard stuff and bouldering. LOVE the Locos


JustinChamberlin


Feb 4, 2008, 7:44 AM
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La Sportiva Venom.


IBarrett


May 13, 2008, 11:40 PM
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Mad Rock Onsight! Smile Cute little blue shoes


bldr


May 14, 2008, 12:26 AM
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Where is all the love for Boreal (the shoes not the rubber).

I spend a lot of time in my ninjas, prior to that zens.

I am also a huge fan of the 5.10 Newton.


henrikh


May 14, 2008, 3:15 AM
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five ten galileo´s


cchas


May 14, 2008, 7:38 AM
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a pair of black kenneth coles, really comfortable, no really, but a bit pricey,

oh, you mean for climbing- depends

trad: Moccysyms

sport: Venoms or a pair of Evolves


s_peter


May 14, 2008, 12:56 PM
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bldr wrote:
Where is all the love for Boreal (the shoes not the rubber).

Here ya go: I wear Zens, Matrix and Stingers. All resoled except for the Zens (got decent Quattro Rubber on them).


b.debaser


May 15, 2008, 8:51 PM
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Sperry Top Siders
and Katanas


stymingersfink


May 15, 2008, 9:44 PM
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trail runners in the summer, soloman snow clogs in the winter.

So?


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