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ddt


Feb 28, 2008, 8:27 PM
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Suggestions for RC.com Climbing Dictionary
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Please post your comments and suggestions for edits or additions to our Climbing Dictionary here. We will make the changes if there is sufficient consensus about the suggested change or addition.

Please stay on topic in this thread. Off-topic posts will be removed.

Thanks for your contributions!
DDT


shoo


Feb 28, 2008, 8:47 PM
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I'll start. To add to your definition of "screamer,"

a common name for a device which reduces peak force by controlled tearing of stitching, more specifically the brand name for one of these products by Yates.


ddt


Feb 28, 2008, 8:50 PM
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Added! Smile


(This post was edited by ddt on Feb 28, 2008, 8:51 PM)


shoo


Feb 28, 2008, 8:52 PM
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Oooh, I have another

booty - n. gear left behind for the taking, usually either from a previous party bailing on a route or accidentally fixing gear

Thanks ddt!


(This post was edited by shoo on Feb 28, 2008, 10:20 PM)


sbaclimber


Feb 28, 2008, 11:36 PM
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Abseil - v. UK English for rappel, from the German origin. See Rappel.

Pin/Peg - n. See Piton.

Wire - n. Slang for Nut. See Nuts.

Sidecling - n. Any hold that requires the climber to pull on it in a sideways manner.

Pinch - n. Any hold that must be pinched.

Tuffa - n. Generally rounded hanging features formed by calcium leaching out of limestone. Basically the climber's version of Stalactites.


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Feb 29, 2008, 12:59 AM)


overlord


Mar 4, 2008, 2:34 AM
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'aid ratings' is missing, and is referred to in at least two other articles (aid climbing and class 6)

proposed changes...

belay(v)... ditch the 'preventing rope from from being paid out if the climber falls' for 'protecting the climber in the event of a fall'.

belayer... a person who is belaying a climber.

drop knee... technique requiring twisting your body and a downward turning of the inside knee to increase reach efficiency. (short, i know, but to the point)

Figure 4 - n. An uncommon technique to make long reaches that requires lifting a leg over the opposite arm, putting the body in a position that resembles a "4". Mostly used in ice and mixed climbing.

add...

Figure 9 - n. An uncommon technique to make long reaches that requires lifting a leg over the arm on the same side of the climbers body, putting the body in a position that resembles a "9". Mostly used in ice and mixed climbing.

change...

Flag... SCC refers to flagging as using feet without holds to improove balance and create sideways momentum. maybe this should be included in some way.

put the two definitions of 'jug' into one, they are redundant.

pendulum... add... also a dangerous situation that may occur during a fall, if the top piece of protections is off to one side.

second... add... (n) a person (one or more) who is seconding a climb.

solo... it does not necessarily have to be free. you can also solo climb with protection, or solo aid etc. it only means that you are climbing alone, without a partner.


thats it for now i guess. i will get back to this oneWink


(This post was edited by overlord on Mar 4, 2008, 2:45 AM)


danB


Mar 10, 2008, 9:59 PM
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self arrest - the act of stopping oneself with the axe in the case of a fall while on a snow slope
verglas - a thin layer of ice covering rock
roof - a 180 degree overhang
glissade - a controled slide down a slope


majid_sabet


Apr 2, 2008, 4:30 PM
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Stacking – placing fingers above each other in a crack to lock while crack climbing


ddt


Apr 2, 2008, 11:03 PM
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I've worked all suggestions so far into the dictionary. Thanks for everyone's contributions!

DDT


scuclimber


Apr 20, 2008, 5:06 PM
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ddt,

Isn't the term "chickenhead" and not "chickhead"? I've never in my life heard it called the latter, either in popular guidebooks written by climbing greats, or otherwise. I've always heard "chickenhead." Just a thought.


ddt


Apr 21, 2008, 5:18 PM
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Yup, I agree. I've fixed it.

DDT


thomasribiere


Apr 22, 2008, 8:28 AM
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The famous "equalette" is not in the Dictionary.


ddt


Apr 22, 2008, 9:45 AM
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thomasribiere wrote:
The famous "equalette" is not in the Dictionary.

Can anyone offer a succint definition?


Partner j_ung


May 7, 2008, 5:46 AM
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This came up recently and might be worthwhile.

back step:
1. n, a foot position relative to its foothold wherein the climber uses the outside edge of the toe box, instead of the big toe, inside edge, heel, instep, etc.
2. v, to use the outside edge of one's foot on a foothold.
3. v, (the rope) to place a foot or leg between the rope and the rock in such a way as to make entanglement and, subsequently, an upside-down fall more likely. Dude! Watch your right foot! Don't back step the rope!



ddt


May 7, 2008, 8:41 AM
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Thanks Jay... I added "back step". Smile


(This post was edited by ddt on May 7, 2008, 8:41 AM)


dumbsocrates


Aug 4, 2008, 9:09 AM
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How about defs of "ice axe" and "ice tool"?


sungam


Sep 20, 2008, 6:16 PM
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Too add to the description of "alpine style"...
I think Alpinism is definitely a place where you want to cut down weight etc. but that's not, historically at least, what alpine style is.
Rather, the definition for alpine style should be along the lines of " Doing a mountain route without pre-placing fixed lines or using pre-supplied camp sites for any stage of the journey
Example: Joe Simpson Simon Yates did Suila Grande in alpine style and look where it got them! or: And the British group climbed the new route on Changabang in fine alpine style".
Know what I mean?


thomasribiere


Oct 5, 2008, 5:19 AM
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Jughaul? Is that a succession of jugs?

camhead wrote:
Yosemite is more overrated than a Maple Canyon jughaul.


camhead


Oct 5, 2008, 7:10 AM
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jughaul: a route that has nothing but big, easy holds on it.


thomasribiere


Oct 6, 2008, 1:49 PM
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Could the definition of G / PG13 / R / X be added as well?


yinyangS13


Oct 14, 2008, 3:24 PM
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Static and dynamic ropes are not in the dictionary


ddt


Oct 19, 2008, 10:31 PM
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thomasribiere wrote:
Could the definition of G / PG13 / R / X be added as well?

I added the definitions under "safety rating".


ddt


Oct 19, 2008, 10:32 PM
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camhead wrote:
jughaul: a route that has nothing but big, easy holds on it.

Added. Smile


ddt


Oct 19, 2008, 10:33 PM
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yinyangS13 wrote:
Static and dynamic ropes are not in the dictionary

Care to provide the verbiage? Wink


ddt


Oct 19, 2008, 10:36 PM
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sungam wrote:
Too add to the description of "alpine style"...
I think Alpinism is definitely a place where you want to cut down weight etc. but that's not, historically at least, what alpine style is.
Rather, the definition for alpine style should be along the lines of " Doing a mountain route without pre-placing fixed lines or using pre-supplied camp sites for any stage of the journey
Example: Joe Simpson Simon Yates did Suila Grande in alpine style and look where it got them! or: And the British group climbed the new route on Changabang in fine alpine style".
Know what I mean?

I updated the definition of alpine style. Thanks!


thomasribiere


Oct 20, 2008, 1:16 PM
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thanks for the additions, Daniel.


Adk


Jan 1, 2009, 10:16 AM
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I was just going through some definitions with my 16 y/o and we came across two definitions that need to be added.

1. Back Clean- probably put under the cleaning definition

2. Though the word pin is referred to piton, Pin scar is not noted. I'm sure many can figure things out but it would clarify the term.

Thanks in advance
Dave


Partner j_ung


Jan 5, 2009, 9:10 AM
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Got it. Thanks Adk.


yay_chris


Apr 19, 2009, 8:18 PM
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Tea-Bag: n. when the leader falls, pulls the belayer up in the air, and makes contact with the belayer.


rockreaver


Aug 6, 2009, 4:11 PM
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In a similar vein to the screamers it'd be nice to see the various pieces defined:

(I don't know if these are in there or not. I'm guessing they are not. I just cannot remember.)

screamers
TCU
Tricam
slings
runners
dogbones

I think some of the jargon stuff here would be cool
too:

STFU and all the others. If you are getting beat down it'd be nice to understand what the particulars are of your beat down...

I have a lot more that I'd like to see and if you are interested I'll expand this list. If this isn't what you were looking for then say no more...

I'll STFU for now though. If this is what you are after I'll xref the dictionary and then put the rest of my terms in.

Such a killer resource as it is though. Damn fine work. Maybe we need a new section for UFC (what the hell is up with that?).


dagibbs


Sep 1, 2009, 10:37 AM
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A0 - why does it have a seperate entry?

Aid Climbing -- says to see "Aid ratings" but there is no entry for "Aid ratings", either that should be written or the see also removed.

Belay - vb. (1) vb. -- the first "vb" should be deleted. (I assume "vb" is "verb both" -- being both transitive and intransitive".

Belay Monkey - missing the "n."

Campus - 2 - to rock climbing moves with... is not really English. Maybe "to perform rock climbing moves with..." or maybe just "to climb with... ".

Campus Board - "wrunged" should be "runged"

Chickenhead - are they only found in granite? Are they found in granite? I'd just simplify to: "A knobby feature resembling a chicken's head which provides excellent holds for hands or feet."

Clean - v. 1 v. -- remove the extra "v." at the start.
Additional definition 3. adj. to complete a climb or problem without hang-dogging or falling, especially on top-rope.

new definition:
Crash Pad - n. - Bouldering pad.

Crux - extra period "the most crucial.,"

Dihedral and Open Book should reference each other.

new definition:
Express - n. A Quickdraw. Two caribiners connected by webbing or rope. Usually used to link the rope to an element of protection. (European)

Flag. Second sentence should be re-written to start "Also refers to using feet..."

Gym - n modify to "a usually indoor...". I have climbed at gyms with outdoor, but still artificial, climbing. (e.g. Kletterzentrum Stuttgart - http://www.kletterzentrum-stuttgart.de/ in Germany which has a large outdoor climbing structure or Planet Granite (Sunnyvale) - http://www.planetgranite.com/sc/home_sc.html which has outdoor bouldering.)

Hexcentric "reffered" should be "referred" -- double r, single f, not double f, single r.

Locking Carabiner -- should be a comma after "screw gate" too.

Natural Protection -- I disagree with this definition (you may wish to find concensus), but had always understand "natural" protection to be things like trees, roots, horns, etc where you just used a sling around it, rather than placing a piece.

Open Book - should see also dihedral.

Problem - n. A bouldering route.

Quickdraw - Two carabiners connected by webbing (usually) or rope. Use to link elements of protection or, more commonly, to link the rope to a piece of protection.

Sandbag - delete the extra "rating" in the sentence. "A climb that receives an inappropriately low rating for the difficulty."

Top Rope - last sentence, "In general this results in shorter falls than a lead." would probably be clearer.


dagibbs


Sep 9, 2009, 12:32 PM
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Some more definitions that might be helpful:

Splitter Crack - ?
Pig - haul bag for big walls?


I don't have clear definitions for these -- was looking for them in the dictionary.


(This post was edited by dagibbs on Sep 9, 2009, 12:51 PM)


ddt


Oct 7, 2009, 5:11 AM
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dagibbs wrote:
A0 - why does it have a seperate entry?

Aid Climbing -- says to see "Aid ratings" but there is no entry for "Aid ratings", either that should be written or the see also removed.

Belay - vb. (1) vb. -- the first "vb" should be deleted. (I assume "vb" is "verb both" -- being both transitive and intransitive".

Belay Monkey - missing the "n."

Campus - 2 - to rock climbing moves with... is not really English. Maybe "to perform rock climbing moves with..." or maybe just "to climb with... ".

Campus Board - "wrunged" should be "runged"

Chickenhead - are they only found in granite? Are they found in granite? I'd just simplify to: "A knobby feature resembling a chicken's head which provides excellent holds for hands or feet."

Clean - v. 1 v. -- remove the extra "v." at the start.
Additional definition 3. adj. to complete a climb or problem without hang-dogging or falling, especially on top-rope.

new definition:
Crash Pad - n. - Bouldering pad.

Crux - extra period "the most crucial.,"

Dihedral and Open Book should reference each other.

new definition:
Express - n. A Quickdraw. Two caribiners connected by webbing or rope. Usually used to link the rope to an element of protection. (European)

Flag. Second sentence should be re-written to start "Also refers to using feet..."

Gym - n modify to "a usually indoor...". I have climbed at gyms with outdoor, but still artificial, climbing. (e.g. Kletterzentrum Stuttgart - http://www.kletterzentrum-stuttgart.de/ in Germany which has a large outdoor climbing structure or Planet Granite (Sunnyvale) - http://www.planetgranite.com/sc/home_sc.html which has outdoor bouldering.)

Hexcentric "reffered" should be "referred" -- double r, single f, not double f, single r.

Locking Carabiner -- should be a comma after "screw gate" too.

Natural Protection -- I disagree with this definition (you may wish to find concensus), but had always understand "natural" protection to be things like trees, roots, horns, etc where you just used a sling around it, rather than placing a piece.

Open Book - should see also dihedral.

Problem - n. A bouldering route.

Quickdraw - Two carabiners connected by webbing (usually) or rope. Use to link elements of protection or, more commonly, to link the rope to a piece of protection.

Sandbag - delete the extra "rating" in the sentence. "A climb that receives an inappropriately low rating for the difficulty."

Top Rope - last sentence, "In general this results in shorter falls than a lead." would probably be clearer.

Thanks! I've incorporated these changes.


camhead


Oct 7, 2009, 8:52 AM
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I noticed that "ring lock" is not in there. Something to the effect of "a jam for a crack that is wider than fingers and narrower than hands. Involved bridging the crack with the thumb, and stacking the fingers on top of the thumb."

Also, you may want to add to the definition of "Stack." In addition to a finger stack, you can stack hand and fist jams together with two hands for offwidth cracks.


sungam


Oct 7, 2009, 8:54 AM
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camhead wrote:
I noticed that "ring lock" is not in there. Something to the effect of "a jam for a crack that is wider than fingers and narrower than hands. Involved bridging the crack with the thumb, and stacking the fingers on top of the thumb."

Also, you may want to add to the definition of "Stack." In addition to a finger stack, you can stack hand and fist jams together with two hands for offwidth cracks.
What about the hand-knee stack?
You can't forget the hand-knee stack.


ddt


Oct 8, 2009, 1:38 AM
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camhead wrote:
I noticed that "ring lock" is not in there. Something to the effect of "a jam for a crack that is wider than fingers and narrower than hands. Involved bridging the crack with the thumb, and stacking the fingers on top of the thumb."

Also, you may want to add to the definition of "Stack." In addition to a finger stack, you can stack hand and fist jams together with two hands for offwidth cracks.

Got it. Thanks.


ddt


Oct 8, 2009, 1:38 AM
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sungam wrote:
What about the hand-knee stack?
You can't forget the hand-knee stack.

OK...


sungam


Oct 8, 2009, 3:14 AM
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ddt wrote:
sungam wrote:
What about the hand-knee stack?
You can't forget the hand-knee stack.

OK...
Iz troo...



ddt


Oct 8, 2009, 7:26 AM
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OK, it's in the dict. Smile


wjca


Oct 9, 2009, 8:51 AM
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yay_chris wrote:
Tea-Bag: n. when the leader falls, pulls the belayer up in the air, and makes contact with the belayer.


Sounds like your leader needs to keep his pants on while climbing and you need to keep you mouth closed while belaying.


GreenGiant


Apr 10, 2010, 3:19 AM
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I think you should add 'Punter'

Someone who doesn't really know what they are doing in the climbing environment. Most commonly used as a jokey insult.


Partner macherry


Apr 15, 2010, 11:13 PM
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GreenGiant wrote:
I think you should add 'Punter'

Someone who doesn't really know what they are doing in the climbing environment. Most commonly used as a jokey insult.

that's not an exclusive climbing term


KirbyC


Apr 19, 2010, 1:19 PM
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Scum. v. to use a body part besides the hands or the feet to ascend or stay on the rock. Sometimes thought of as bad form, but can be used to negotiate a key rest on a long route. Ex. I would've fallen if I hadn't been able to scum with the top of my head on that roof and shake my arms out.

Knee bar. n. using the thigh and knee to hold oneself onto the rock, often to get a "no-hands rest." See Scum.

Cold shut. n. a type of fixed anchor with a wire-gate on the top.


dagibbs


Jul 28, 2010, 2:02 PM
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dagibbs wrote:
Some more definitions that might be helpful:

Splitter Crack - ?
Pig - haul bag for big walls?


I don't have clear definitions for these -- was looking for them in the dictionary.

These seem to have slipped by.

I think pig is correctly defined, now. I'm still not entirely clear on the definition of a Splitter crack.


andrewph


Aug 30, 2010, 4:29 AM
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I think Bombay or Bomb bay or what ever it is, (I've seen both in climbing mags recently) Should be added.

I don't know what it is though. I think its some kind of feature in a crack?


Partner j_ung


Aug 30, 2010, 6:45 AM
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andrewph wrote:
I think Bombay or Bomb bay or what ever it is, (I've seen both in climbing mags recently) Should be added.

I don't know what it is though. I think its some kind of feature in a crack?

Bomb-bay (adj.): Describes a chimney (or sometimes lesser crack) that opens at the bottom toward the ground, similar to the bomb-bay doors on a B-52 aircraft.


Partner j_ung


Aug 30, 2010, 6:52 AM
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KirbyC wrote:
Cold shut. n. a type of fixed anchor with a wire-gate on the top.

You're describing a specific type of cold shut.

Maybe something like this?

Cold shut: A type of fixed anchor composed of bent bar stock. Cold shuts, or "shuts," may be open (simply a bent hook that cradles the rope) or closed (welded into a complete loop of metal). Open shuts may be gated to keep the rope from popping out or not. While some types of shuts are still often installed atop (mostly) single-pitch climbs, they have fallen somewhat out favor. Reasons for this include a perceived strength weakness and their short lifespan relative to other types of anchors.


ddt


Sep 6, 2010, 1:18 AM
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Thanks... I added bomb-bay and modified cold shut.

DDT


aesop


Sep 8, 2010, 11:43 AM
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Bump (v.) To move from one hand hold to another with the same hand in a sequential move, typically from an intermediate hold in a linear fashion.


aesop


Sep 8, 2010, 11:51 AM
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Stick Clip (n) A device attached to a pole of some sort, usually a painters pole, that will hold the carabiner on a quickdraw with rope attached. Used to clip the first and sometimes second bolt of a climb to prevent decking if you fall on the climb before you are able to clip the first bolt.


sungam


Sep 9, 2010, 1:28 AM
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aesop wrote:
Stick Clip (n) A device attached to a pole of some sort, usually a painters pole, that will hold the carabiner on a quickdraw with rope attached. Used to clip the first and sometimes second bolt of a climb to prevent decking if you fall on the climb before you are able to clip the first bolt.
Although in some cases also the fifth! (YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE!!!!)


xmesox


Sep 10, 2010, 2:04 AM
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I've added those two new entries, thanks.


Tstef


Oct 21, 2010, 11:28 PM
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KNOTS & HITCHES SECTION:

Bowline knot - n. One of the two common knots for tying in to the climbing harness (after the Figure 8 knot). Used by some experienced climbers for indoor and sport climbing because it is easier to untie after repeated loadings. Can be tied with one hand. Should be periodically re-tightened and the loose end MUST be secured with a Stopper knot - it may pull through the loop otherwise. "The rabbit goes out of the hole, around the tree, and back down the hole" is a commonly used phrase that provides hints on how to tie the bowline knot.

Clove hitch - n. A hitch that is secure when fastened but easily adjustable by pulling open. Used most often to fasten a rope/sling to a carabiner; can also be tied onto fence posts or pickets. Consists of two half hitches crossed on top of each other - the looped area is then clipped with a locking carabiner.

Double Overhand knot - see Double Stopper knot

Double Stopper knot - n. A stopper knot with an extra turn around the parallel strand of rope. More secure than the simple version. a.k.a. Double Overhand knot.

Figure 9 knot - n. Similar to a Figure 8 knot but with an extra turn around the main rope. Used occasionally when a strong knot is required that is easy to untie after loading.

Girth hitch - n. A very simple hitch for attaching a sling to a harness or a tree. The sling is threaded back through a loop in itself. When attached to a tree or large branch, it should be used carefully as it can be very weak in the wrong configuration.

Italian hitch - see Münter hitch

Münter hitch - n. A non-locking hitch that allows enough friction to provide an excellent belay method when used in conjunction with a locking carabiner, preferably a wide-mouthed (HMS) carabiner. Named after Swiss mountain guide Werner Münter. a.k.a. Italian hitch

Ring bend - see Water knot

Stopper knot - n. An overhand knot usually tied around a parallel strand of rope to secure the loose end of a main knot. The more secure double version is commonly used (see Double Stopper Knot). a.k.a. thumb knot

Tape knot - see Water knot

Thumb knot - see Stopper knot

Water knot - n. Used to connect the ends of a sling into a loop or to link two slings together. It is basically an overhand knot in one end, with the other end fed back through in the reverse direction. Can also be used for ropes, but the ropes can easily become undone. Should be pulled very tight, with long tail ends (at least five times the sling's width). a.k.a. ring bend or tape knot


BELAY DEVICES SECTION:

Grigri - n. An auto-locking belay device working on a similar principle to car seatbelts, where a shock loading will tighten a sprung camming system and hold the rope. Does not allow dynamic belaying, so a large impact force results.


xmesox


Oct 22, 2010, 12:57 AM
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Thanks, I've gone ahead and added the new entries.


Tstef


Oct 23, 2010, 2:15 PM
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Hooking - n./v. Foot technique involving the use of the heel as a prehensile limb, pulling the body toward a hold. Requires well-fitting heels - slippers are not suitable for this movement style as the heel tends to pop out of the shoe. Best used to cross large overhangs. Camming the heel against a flake and the toe against the wall is often a very effective variation.

Palming - n./v. Hand technique where the palm of the hand pushes downward on a slab or bulge, allowing the extension muscles to be used if the angle is low enough to allow good friction.

Elevator door - n. Hand technique that is essentially a double Gaston, i.e. both hands are pulling on either side of a narrow crack, like trying to pull elevator doors open.

Crucifix move - n. A strenuous stemming move using the arms instead of the legs; the upper body is locked by applying outward pressure on the hands at anything up to shoulder level, allowing the feet to be brought over a bulge or blank section. Often used in conjunction with standard stemming to tackle wide chimneys.

Tape - n. Zinc oxide tape.

Taping up - v. The action of applying tape around the knuckles or used to improvise gloves with bare palms in order to protect from rock crystals digging into the flesh. Especially useful in crack climbing.

Engram - n. psychology An encoding in neural tissue that provides a physical basis for the persistence of memory; a memory trace. e.g. After practicing overhangs, the message from the brain will work on the opposing muscle groups much more effectively when following recently used pathways.

Knee lock - see Knee bar

Worm grinding - Slab climbing technique where a toe is placed onto a change in angle, with the other toes lower. The toe is ground into the rock as the other toes are pivoted upward; once the rubber has bitten it will stay put and absorb all the climber's weight.

Proposed correction for Dyno - n./v. A type of dynamic move where the climber launches from a "spring" body position and ends in a "catch". A full dyno involves most or all of the limbs becoming airborne, with the body describing a "C" pattern in the air. Other types of dynamic moves are double dynos, slaps, and udges.

Double dyno - n. A dyno where both hands launch out simultaneously for a high break.

Slap - n./v. A type of dynamic move involving the fast movement of a hand from one hold to another while the rest of the body remains fairly still.

Udge - n./v. A type of dynamic move that starts as a static reach for a hold, but the last few inches are just beyond the comfortable point of balance and require a sudden committing acceleration to reach the hold. Sometimes an intermediate sloping hold can be used mometarily to gather resources for the final surge.

Rock-on - n. Technique where a toe or heel on a hold at about waist height is used to pull the body weight up and over. Can be very strenuous if attempted statically so it is generally best treated as a dynamic move, launching from a foothold and "throwing" the hips by using side pulls or pushing down on a hold behind the hips. Is often the key to difficult slab moves.


More to come.


Tstef


Oct 24, 2010, 1:37 PM
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Adventure climbing - see Traditional climbing

Aiding - see Aid climbing

Aid points - n. Gear attached to the rock from which to hang when aid climbing.

Arm bar - n./v. A forearm jammed across a wide crack using a camming effect in order to make progress.

Artificial climbing - see Aid climbing

Autoblock - n./v. A prusik used as a one-way clutch or pulley. Used as a safety back-up knot on a rappel rope. a.k.a. French prusik or "Machard" prusik.

French prusik - see Autoblock

Machard prusik - see Autoblock

Clipstick - see Stick Clip

Commitment, level of - n. A term used to define how hard a climb is.

Cow's tail - n. A sling girth-hitched onto the harness attachment point.

Dynamic rope - n. A rope that stretches to absorb impact, vital for lead climbing.

Egyptian move - n. The dropped knee technique but without twisting the body, allowing the feet to push in opposition even if using vertical holds. Is sometimes the only way that either hand can be freed up.

Escaping the system - v. Transferring the weight of a hanging climber directly to the anchor, so that the belayer can move away to solve a problem.

Extender - see Quickdraw

Gouttes d'eau - n. pl. fr. Pockets in the rock caused by water erosion.

Grade - n. An approximate measure of the technical difficulty of a climb.

G-Tox - n./v. A method of shaking out the arms which utilizes gravity to shorten muscle recovery time.

Impact force - n. The maximum force affecting the climber and anchors as a falling climber is brought to a halt. The faster the deceleration, the greater the impact force.

Kleimheist hitch - n. A versatile prusik hitch that can be tied using cord or webbing. Allows a climber to ascend or descend a fixed climbing rope, particularly in an emergency situation. Easier to slide on a fixed rope than a normal prusik.

Knee bar - n./v. Similar to an arm bar but using either the thigh bone or the lower leg cammed across a wide crack.

Left-right diagonal - n. Combination of, for example, right hand and left foot on holds to give a strong braced through body tension. Particularly effective on steep rock.

Locking off/Lock-off - v./n. A powerful holding position in which one elbow is fully contracted, allowing the other arm to reach out for a hold. Limits the amount of reach available.

Pacing - n./v. A fundamental way of conserving energy by varying the speed of movement according to the angle of the rock.

Rack - n. The set of protection equipment used for a climb.2

Ripples - n. pl. Undulations in a slab surface that may allow the feet to gain a hold through friction.

RP - n. A Specialized brass micro-nut manufactured in Australia.

RURPs - n. pl. Tiny postage-stamp-sized blades used as fixed equipment - Realized Ultimate Reality Pitons.

Sharp end - n. slang The lead (top) end of a rope when lead climbing.

SLCD - Abbreviation for Spring-Loaded Camming Device - a mechanical protection device that is often simply called a cam.

Spotting - v./n. A way of reducing the hazard for unroped climbers. One or more people shield a climber from a bad landing with their hands.

START - n. acronym A simple way to create a safe belay - Simple, Tested, Angle, Reliance, Tensioned.

Static move - n. A slow reach for a hold, the opposite of a dynamic move which involves "slapping" or even jumping for a hold.

Static rope - n. A nonelastic rope, useful for situations other than lead climbing.

Stitch plate - n. A belay device consisting of a flat plate with a single or, more commonly, a pair of slots, often used generically.

Twist-lock - n./v. A lock-off in which the body is turned to face the hold. Often combined with turning the hips at right angles to the rock by using the outside edge of the opposite foot. Allows a considerably greater reach.

Undercut - see Undercling

Weighting (the rope) - v./n. Resting by hanging on the belay rope. Not allowed in a a clean ascent.


(This post was edited by Tstef on Oct 24, 2010, 1:54 PM)


xmesox


Oct 25, 2010, 3:52 AM
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Oh my...

Added.


Rmsyll2


Sep 27, 2011, 7:44 PM
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Disco Leg - adj. Also known as 'sewing maching leg' or 'doing the wild elvis'. Referres the the uncontrollable shaking of the leg(s) while climbing. Result of tired leg muscles.

edit:
Disco Leg - adj. Uncontrollable shaking of a leg while climbing, from tired leg muscles and/or fear. Also "sewing machine leg" or "doing the Elvis" or "Elvis leg".


Rmsyll2


Sep 27, 2011, 7:46 PM
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Elvis leg - see Disco leg.


Rmsyll2


Sep 27, 2011, 9:08 PM
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Epic....constantly....

Exposure - n. 1. Being far above your last piece of protection. 2. Being high above the ground or in a remote location.

Express - see Quickdraw.

Face Climbing...considered to be....

Figure 8 - n. 1. Rappel or belay device shaped like the number "8" with a large and small hole. A bight of rope is fed through the large hole and passed over the small end. 2. A knot that has the shape of the number 8, often tied with a bight or retraced with the running end to make a secure loop.

Finger jam - n. Obtaining purchase in a crack wide enough for a finger but too narrow for a hand; can be achieved with one or more fingers. [delete following: this is a dictionary, not a manual]

Fist Jam - n. Using a fist wedged into a crack instead of a grip to hold on.

Flake - n. Area of rock that is not attached along an edge.

Flapper - n. Piece of skin cut or torn away but still partly attached.

Flash - v., n. Complete a climb on first try, without weighting the rope; see also Onsight, Red Point. Primarily for lead climbing; but no alternative term for top-rope, so used there too.

Free Climb - v. To climb directly on the rock by your own body, rather than using devices that allow and help you to move up. Free climbing does use a rope, but only to limit a fall. See also Free Solo, Hang Dog.


jsj7051


Oct 2, 2011, 7:46 PM
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New climbing moves

1- Single Lewinski = useing 1 knee to step up on a ledge

2- Double Lewinski = useing both knees to step onto a ledge

Cool


bec.newing


Oct 17, 2011, 4:38 PM
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Featherbag - n. opposite of sandbag.


gjbroge


Nov 15, 2011, 3:10 PM
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"Whipper" should be defined as a fall from above protection while lead or trad climbing, or something along those lines.

"Hueco" also comes from the Spanish for "hollow".


dagibbs


Apr 12, 2012, 11:08 AM
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A few new ones:

Twin Ropes: a pair of ropes intended to be clipped together as a single rope while lead climbing. A rope intended for such useage will generally be marked with an infinity (sideways 8) symbol.

Double ropes: a pair of ropes intended to be used such that only one rope will be clipped into any particular piece of protection. Generally used to reduce rope drag issues on (trad) routes that wander, or where the gear is often well off the main climbing line. A rope intended for this useage will generally be marked with a 1/2 symbol on it, though any rope intended as a single rope can, also, be used as one of a double-ropes pair.

Half ropes: the same as double ropes.

Also, the entry for Express spells should have "opre" corrected to "rope".


xmesox


Apr 13, 2012, 3:38 AM
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Thanks, I have added your additions.


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