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Dealing with unwanted beta
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ACJ


Feb 18, 2009, 5:51 PM
Post #26 of 30 (1838 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2008
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Re: [mturner] Dealing with unwanted beta [In reply to]
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Honestly, I think some people just don't enjoy climbing without beta. To them getting to the top might be the most important thing.

For me I don't want it and was taught to climb without it, I think that makes a difference.

I recently met a girl at the crag who seemed very strong with solid technique. She was running laps on 5.11s like they were nothing. After about 10-15 pitches someone asked her to try a new 5.11 route on top rope. She tried, and fell about 10 times on the way up. She constantly asked for beta the whole way, pumped out trying to decipher it, and then pitched. Make your own assumptions about whether that kind of performance is normal.

So I assume some people see you climbing and think, woah that person is about to fall I better give them beta. Others just consider climbing extremely social and about helping each other.

When I climb I do it without beta but only get frustrated if I am going for an on-sight and someone ruins it for me. "Hey bring a #2 cam for the crux or you're screwed!" Which I end up responding with by not bringing that cam.

When I teach someone to climb and they ask for help I refuse to give beta until they have fallen. Otherwise, they aren't really trying in my eyes. Then again maybe I'm just imposing my personal beliefs on them like the beta sharks do on us...


mturner


Feb 21, 2009, 10:51 AM
Post #27 of 30 (1814 views)
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Registered: Dec 16, 2005
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Re: [ACJ] Dealing with unwanted beta [In reply to]
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ACJ wrote:
When I climb I do it without beta but only get frustrated if I am going for an on-sight and someone ruins it for me. "Hey bring a #2 cam for the crux or you're screwed!" Which I end up responding with by not bringing that cam.

Wow you really must hate beta if you don't even like gear beta. That just keeps you safe and really has nothing to do with the actually climbing. That beta I don't think I'd mind.


ACJ


Mar 5, 2009, 7:41 AM
Post #28 of 30 (1727 views)
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Re: [mturner] Dealing with unwanted beta [In reply to]
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mturner wrote:
Wow you really must hate beta if you don't even like gear beta. That just keeps you safe and really has nothing to do with the actually climbing. That beta I don't think I'd mind.

I would argue differently. I think that sizing gear and figuring out what goes where is a HUGE part of climbing. When I onsight a route I carry a lot of stuff that I don't place and take a little longer sifting through my rack to grab the correct cam. If it is a route that I have dialed I barely carry anything, my cam's are even placed in order on my harness if it's a route at my limit and know where all the pieces go right away.

I like the thought of climbing being as personal as possible. It seems like in society today we have bosses, teachers, friends, enemies, and they all tell us what we should be doing. It's nice to rely on myself and climb outside of anyone else's orders or direction. It gives me more ownership over what I am doing, the consequences, and the goals I meet.


flesh


Feb 28, 2012, 3:29 PM
Post #29 of 30 (1028 views)
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Registered: Mar 11, 2011
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Re: [mturner] Dealing with unwanted beta [In reply to]
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Hopefully this isn't a repost, I just read the OP, not everyone's response. Here's what works for me.

I'm practicing onsighting so please don't say anything. You could tell them that your girlfriend is practicing onsighting/flashing of course.

If I feel compelled to give beta, I just ask, would you like some beta?


crjanow


Mar 13, 2012, 2:13 PM
Post #30 of 30 (953 views)
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Registered: Dec 17, 2008
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Re: [flesh] Dealing with unwanted beta [In reply to]
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sometimes i dont even take my gear to the crag. i just take a bullhorn and scream beta at every person climbing. i also scream at the belayer telling them how to do it.

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