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Gyms are for rock masters!!!
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Tootie


Jan 6, 2010, 9:57 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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I climb way harder outdoors...
Maybe cuz its more badass u can smoke your herb and b free....


Partner cracklover


Jan 6, 2010, 10:00 AM
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Re: [edge] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
cracklover wrote:
But I can leavittate as good or better than anyone I know.

GO

[cough]ahem[/cough]

Hey, the Creek is only a seven hour drive from me. Wanna come play in the spring? Bring some big cams, we'll see what you're made of.

Or at least what the inside of your shins are made of. Wink

GO


rockforlife


Jan 6, 2010, 10:09 AM
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Re: [Tootie] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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Tootie wrote:
I climb way harder outdoors...
Maybe cuz its more badass u can smoke your herb and b free....


edge


Jan 6, 2010, 10:31 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
edge wrote:
cracklover wrote:
But I can leavittate as good or better than anyone I know.

GO

[cough]ahem[/cough]

Hey, the Creek is only a seven hour drive from me. Wanna come play in the spring? Bring some big cams, we'll see what you're made of.

Or at least what the inside of your shins are made of. Wink

GO

It could happen! If we sell our house, plans are for a multi-month road trip with the end game being a relocation to someplace near Boulder, but not in Boulder.

As for off widths, I have a definite genetic advantage. My size 13 feet can stack at all sort of widths, and my hands are so large that the majority of manufacturers XL-sized gloves do not fit me. I actually like a good offwidth.

Low Exposure at the Gunks (led; can't claim an onsight as I had walked under tons of people plugging away at it)

Generator Crack in the Valley. (On-sight, free solo sometime around 1984?)


Partner cracklover


Jan 6, 2010, 11:16 AM
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Re: [edge] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
cracklover wrote:
edge wrote:
cracklover wrote:
But I can leavittate as good or better than anyone I know.

GO

[cough]ahem[/cough]

Hey, the Creek is only a seven hour drive from me. Wanna come play in the spring? Bring some big cams, we'll see what you're made of.

Or at least what the inside of your shins are made of. Wink

GO

It could happen! If we sell our house, plans are for a multi-month road trip with the end game being a relocation to someplace near Boulder, but not in Boulder.

As for off widths, I have a definite genetic advantage. My size 13 feet can stack at all sort of widths, and my hands are so large that the majority of manufacturers XL-sized gloves do not fit me. I actually like a good offwidth.

Low Exposure at the Gunks (led; can't claim an onsight as I had walked under tons of people plugging away at it)

Generator Crack in the Valley. (On-sight, free solo sometime around 1984?)

That reminds me - you know that old saying about guys with big hands and big feet? Two out of three ain't bad!

BTW I've never been on Generator, but I did do Low Exposure, onsight. My last climb at the Gunks before moving west.

Whether you're out here for good, or if you just come to scope out the scene, do look me up. I owe you one for the loaner gear you gave me to do the Prow.

GO


tradrenn


Jan 6, 2010, 5:28 PM
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Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
I still don't understand how someone can crank at the gym and not outdoors. Move for move, the plastic is so much harder.

When I started to climb in Canada, I started to climb in a gym and within one to two year I got so good at pulling plastic that I thought I was awesome, 11d plastic. On the other hand my climbing skills outside just royally suck, about 5.6, 5.8 was the scariest thing on this planet. Since I quit gym my outdoor climbing skills went up up up, and just like you I suck at indoor climbing, but I'm proud of it.

V.


rschap


Jan 6, 2010, 7:42 PM
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Re: [tradrenn] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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I push myself in the gym because I consider it training and I want the best workout I can get. I also pretty much only boulder in the gym and work problems that push my limits and work myself till I just canít climb any more for the stamina. When I climb outside Iím just looking for fun and do mostly mutipitch so pushing my limits is not really conducive.


sp00ki


Jan 14, 2010, 1:39 PM
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Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
Move for move, the plastic is so much harder.

??
This doesn't make sense.
I can't tell if it's a bad troll, or you're not explaining yourself correctly.

regardless, the thread ended up being a surprisingly interesting read.


Partner cracklover


Jan 14, 2010, 2:31 PM
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Re: [sp00ki] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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sp00ki wrote:
angry wrote:
Move for move, the plastic is so much harder.

??
This doesn't make sense.
I can't tell if it's a bad troll, or you're not explaining yourself correctly.

regardless, the thread ended up being a surprisingly interesting read.

In the immortal words of Inigo Montoya: "You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means."

GO


slablizard


Jan 19, 2010, 4:53 PM
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Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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Hmmmno, it's harder outside. But as you I climb way better outdoor.

I am WAY more motivated to climb hard outside than in the gym, that's very true, and more motivation translates in better climbing...besides I generally get to the gym at the end of the day, rarely in the morning..as I do outdoor...and of course you feel heavier, more tired...and distracted by well..the pretty girls ;)

Besides the fact that some routes at the gym are not hard..they just suck and have stupid awkward moves with no feet to make the grade...or the holds are so old there's no texture left..so a12a feels way harder



angry wrote:
There is no place that I go that I can get such a consistent ass whooping.

I haven't decided whether I'm going to go try a 12d crack climb or 12d sport route after breakfast today. Either way, I know I'll make more progress than even a 12b at the gym. And I'll be able to climb tomorrow, not destroyed for 3 days.

The gym is fucking hard.


Partner angry


Jan 19, 2010, 5:18 PM
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Re: [sp00ki] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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sp00ki wrote:
angry wrote:
Move for move, the plastic is so much harder.

??
This doesn't make sense.
I can't tell if it's a bad troll, or you're not explaining yourself correctly.

regardless, the thread ended up being a surprisingly interesting read.

I mean a 12b indoors has harder moves than a 12b outdoors.


PlasticHead


Jan 28, 2010, 11:22 AM
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Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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i agree. 2 hours at the gym is equivalent to an entire day outside. It's hard not to crank too hard at the gym leading to finger injuries.


USnavy


Feb 2, 2010, 4:08 AM
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Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
sp00ki wrote:
angry wrote:
Move for move, the plastic is so much harder.

??
This doesn't make sense.
I can't tell if it's a bad troll, or you're not explaining yourself correctly.

regardless, the thread ended up being a surprisingly interesting read.

I mean a 12b indoors has harder moves than a 12b 11b outdoors.

Barely, but yes.


malcolm777b


Feb 2, 2010, 2:22 PM
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Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
sp00ki wrote:
angry wrote:
Move for move, the plastic is so much harder.

??
This doesn't make sense.
I can't tell if it's a bad troll, or you're not explaining yourself correctly.

regardless, the thread ended up being a surprisingly interesting read.

I mean a 12b indoors has harder moves than a 12b outdoors.

Yes. Not to mention that gym routes typically aren't "cruxy". Yes, they may have a crux, but it won't be 5.9 climbing to a 5.12b crux. Gym route setters are typically very keen on what 11+ and 12 feel like.

I think it's sub 11a where gyms are typically soft.


I_do


Feb 5, 2010, 7:03 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
angry wrote:
sp00ki wrote:
angry wrote:
Move for move, the plastic is so much harder.

??
This doesn't make sense.
I can't tell if it's a bad troll, or you're not explaining yourself correctly.

regardless, the thread ended up being a surprisingly interesting read.

I mean a 12b indoors has harder moves than a 12b 11b outdoors.

Barely, but yes.

So how many gyms are there in Hawaii?


Partner angry


Feb 5, 2010, 7:07 AM
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Re: [I_do] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
angry wrote:
sp00ki wrote:
angry wrote:
Move for move, the plastic is so much harder.

??
This doesn't make sense.
I can't tell if it's a bad troll, or you're not explaining yourself correctly.

regardless, the thread ended up being a surprisingly interesting read.

I mean a 12b indoors has harder moves than a 12b 11b outdoors.

Barely, but yes.

Then your gym sucks and it's route setters suck more.

Misquote me again and I'll cram a porcupine up your ass (in a bad way).


Toast_in_the_Machine


Feb 5, 2010, 7:54 AM
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Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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angry wrote:

Misquote me again and I'll cram a porcupine up your ass (in a bad way).

Can you explain to me the difference between the good way and the bad way?

And, more importantly, how did you learn the difference? In a gym? If so, which one?


USnavy


Feb 6, 2010, 4:03 PM
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Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
USnavy wrote:
angry wrote:
sp00ki wrote:
angry wrote:
Move for move, the plastic is so much harder.

??
This doesn't make sense.
I can't tell if it's a bad troll, or you're not explaining yourself correctly.

regardless, the thread ended up being a surprisingly interesting read.

I mean a 12b indoors has harder moves than a 12b 11b outdoors.

Barely, but yes.

Then your gym sucks and it's route setters suck more.

I am sure thatís it. So why is it that I continuously see "5.12" gym climbers from the mainland come here to climb for a few days and get spanked when trying to onsight our 5.10's? Sure our crag is a tad sandbagged but itís nothing serious, not more than one letter grade.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 6, 2010, 4:07 PM)


I_do


Feb 7, 2010, 4:07 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
angry wrote:
USnavy wrote:
angry wrote:
sp00ki wrote:
angry wrote:
Move for move, the plastic is so much harder.

??
This doesn't make sense.
I can't tell if it's a bad troll, or you're not explaining yourself correctly.

regardless, the thread ended up being a surprisingly interesting read.

I mean a 12b indoors has harder moves than a 12b 11b outdoors.

Barely, but yes.

Then your gym sucks and it's route setters suck more.

I am sure thatís it. So why is it that I continuously see "5.12" gym climbers from the mainland come here to climb for a few days and get spanked when trying to onsight our 5.10's? Sure our crag is a tad sandbagged but itís nothing serious, not more than one letter grade.

Maybe something is wrong with the grades in their gyms or your perception or they rarely climb outdoors idunno. I will reiterate that I onsight harder outdoors then I project in the gym. I don't know anyone who's been outdoors more then a few times who doesn't climb harder outdoors then in the gym. I really don't know where your coming from and think it's mostly in your perception. Sure these dudes you describe exist but maybe you're forgetting all the ones who don't fit in with your ideas? And who says they're 5.12 climbers? A lot of people don't really know what that means and it definately needs more explanation to be meaningfull.

Cheers


slevin


Feb 7, 2010, 10:42 PM
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Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
I mean a 12b indoors has harder moves than a 12b outdoors.
Totally true, in my experience. Generally, artificial routes are sustained at the given grade, the moves are usually very reachy, there are no intermediate holds and footholds are pre-defined. Any crack at the gym would totally even and have plain wood inside - jamming at the gym is way harder (for the same size) then outside.

As you said, move for move plastic is way harder. I think the key reason why gym rats are getting spanked outdoors is inability to read routes and subtle differences in footwork.


bill413


Feb 8, 2010, 10:52 AM
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Re: [Toast_in_the_Machine] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote:
angry wrote:

Misquote me again and I'll cram a porcupine up your ass (in a bad way).

Can you explain to me the difference between the good way and the bad way?

And, more importantly, how did you learn the difference? In a gym? If so, which one?

I would suspect that the bad way hurts.

I would avoid whichever gym gives that sort of instruction. I suspect it's not my style of clientele.


Kevthecoffeeguy


Feb 10, 2010, 8:26 AM
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Re: [bill413] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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Best gym rat quote when doing outside climbing for the first time" But, where are the holds..."


k.l.k


Feb 10, 2010, 3:06 PM
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Re: [angry] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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i climb at least 2 v-grades lower indoors.

i blame the routesetters.


PlasticHead


Mar 2, 2010, 7:17 AM
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Re: [k.l.k] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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Theres a problem with the routsetters when I have to work my ass off to climb an indoor v5 at my gym....

Then when I go outside, I flash v6's..


bill413


Mar 2, 2010, 10:35 AM
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Re: [PlasticHead] Gyms are for rock masters!!! [In reply to]
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PlasticHead wrote:
Theres a problem with the routsetters when, I have to work my ass off to climb an indoor v5 at my gym....

Then when I go outside, I flash v6's..

fixt, I think.

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