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jay590
May 24, 2008, 10:29 PM
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i have a black diamond harness for about 6 months now and have used it aboput half a dozen times only for abseiling and the belay loop has a nick in it and is starting to fray. is this normal? my dad has a 20 yr old harness and the belay loop has no marks on it and its been used for everything u can imagine. what should i do?
(This post was edited by jay590 on May 24, 2008, 10:56 PM)
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vegastradguy
May 24, 2008, 11:17 PM
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contact bd.
thats definitely not normal wear and tear- did it catch on anything?
at any rate, either retire the harness or do not use the belay loop any more. personally, i'd retire the thing and send it to BD.
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moose_droppings
May 24, 2008, 11:29 PM
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Kinda looks like it was caught on something.
See if BD would sew another belay loop on it for you. If not, maybe Yates or Mountaintools.com might do it.
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jay590
May 24, 2008, 11:32 PM
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no it hasn't ever caught on anything when abseiling. and i dont thing the carabiner could do it. should i take it back to the shop i bought it from so they can send it to black diamond.
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vegastradguy
May 25, 2008, 12:18 AM
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jay590 wrote: no it hasn't ever caught on anything when abseiling. and i dont thing the carabiner could do it. should i take it back to the shop i bought it from so they can send it to black diamond.
yup.
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catbird_seat
May 26, 2008, 10:06 PM
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jay590 wrote: no it hasn't ever caught on anything when abseiling. and i dont thing the carabiner could do it. should i take it back to the shop i bought it from so they can send it to black diamond.
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a.a.
May 27, 2008, 12:02 AM
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That belay loop is beyond fine. Thrash up a couple squeeze chimneys and it will look a lot worse than that. Check out this testing from BD.
http://www.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php
(scroll down a ways)
You could take a knife to it and it will still hold more than your runners are rated to.
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king_rat
May 27, 2008, 5:07 AM
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it looks like you have caught it on something sharp. it probably will not affect the integrity of the belay loop, however probably is not really good enough as it’s a new harness I would contact the manufactures and see if they can replace the belay loop
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fitzontherocks
May 27, 2008, 6:34 AM
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Two words: Todd Skinner.
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swaghole
May 27, 2008, 6:48 AM
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Yep. My thoughts exactly. I'd just dump the harness and buy a new one. It's not worth the head-ache of always wondering if the belay loop is good when you're about to rap off. Heck, if BD wants to replace it for free, then go for it.
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jungle_george
May 27, 2008, 7:28 AM
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This happened to me a couple of weeks ago - I posted a thread about it.
I was originally going to back it up with a piece of webbing, but I ended up sending the harness back to Metolius and they're currently sewing me a new belay loop.
My guess is if you send it to bd they will probably do the same thing for you (or send you a new harness).
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ptlong
May 27, 2008, 9:27 AM
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2. Retire or ignore? (50 pts)
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moose_droppings
May 27, 2008, 9:47 AM
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ptlong wrote: 2. Retire or ignore? (50 pts)
Ignore
Edited to take out pic.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on May 27, 2008, 9:50 AM)
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ptlong
May 27, 2008, 10:00 AM
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50 points for moose.
3. Retire or ignore?
edit: this is a harness belt
(This post was edited by ptlong on May 27, 2008, 10:01 AM)
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acorneau
May 27, 2008, 10:32 AM
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ptlong wrote: 3. Retire or ignore? edit: this is a harness belt
Depends:
-If it's on the tail of the belt outside of the buckle: I'd ignore it.
-If it's inside the buckle: I'd retire it.
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j_ung
May 27, 2008, 11:21 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: jay590 wrote: no it hasn't ever caught on anything when abseiling. and i dont thing the carabiner could do it. should i take it back to the shop i bought it from so they can send it to black diamond. yup.[/] IMO, if you want BD to see it, send it directly to them.
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donald949
May 27, 2008, 1:33 PM
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Get it sent back to BD to have a new loop sewn on it. I'm assuming the rest of the harness is in good shape. BD should do it for free or a couple bucks. Which would be cheeper than buying a new harness.
Don
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billcoe_
May 27, 2008, 10:14 PM
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fitzontherocks wrote: Two words: Todd Skinner.
Ahhhh, so thats what the Todd Skinner model looks like. Damn.
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rtwilli4
May 27, 2008, 10:19 PM
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In reply to: Two words: Todd Skinner. In reply to: ding ding ding!!! 1. retire 2. ignore 3. retire
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knudenoggin
May 27, 2008, 10:29 PM
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a.a. wrote: That belay loop is beyond fine. Thrash up a couple squeeze chimneys and it will look a lot worse than that. Check out this testing from BD. http://www.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php (scroll down a ways) You could take a knife to it and it will still hold more than your runners are rated to.
BINGO, AMEN!
In reply to: two words: Todd Skinner
(according to those who did), there'd be no comparison to the OP's.
*kN*
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fitzontherocks
May 28, 2008, 3:19 PM
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knudenoggin wrote: a.a. wrote: That belay loop is beyond fine. Thrash up a couple squeeze chimneys and it will look a lot worse than that. Check out this testing from BD. http://www.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php (scroll down a ways) You could take a knife to it and it will still hold more than your runners are rated to. In reply to: two words: Todd Skinner Go for the full sentence: if you saw what his actually looked like (according to those who did), there'd be no comparison to the OP's. *kN*
I agree. And the OP's is probably fine. Which is probably what Skinner thought before he started that last rap. I'm just saying "how lucky do you feel?"
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fitzontherocks
May 28, 2008, 7:37 PM
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knudenoggin wrote: fitzontherocks wrote: I agree. And the OP's is probably fine. Which is probably what Skinner thought before he started that last rap. I'm just saying "how lucky do you feel?" If so, not w/good basis; and it's NOT what his buddy(ies) thought. At best, it would've been "it'll last one more time"; whereas here, it's "it's about as good as new (considering the other nicks it'll accrue, before it's time is due). 
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stymingersfink
May 28, 2008, 8:35 PM
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jesus, with the argument going on here, the OP should save himself the headache, give up climbing for something safer, like say... model railroading?
if it were a single-layer sling, a nick like that could be something to retire.
in a triple-layer sling (like the belay loop is), something like that is something to keep an eye on, while you try to figure out what piece of gear was the perpetrator. When you figure that out, retire the piece of gear (so it doesn't screw up your next harness), continue climbing on the original harness till it's actually ready to retire.
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the_leech
May 28, 2008, 9:45 PM
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jay590 wrote: my dad has a 20 yr old harness... what should i do?
Here's a thought...
Don't climb with your dad until he gets a new harness.
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stymingersfink
May 28, 2008, 10:52 PM
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I like your work, the_leech... I really think you should work on your PC++. (thereby providing us with more of your little gems) 
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Hezekiel
Jul 11, 2012, 2:42 AM
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Just a noob freaking out or should I retire? And if it's ok should i cut the end? Or does it really matter? =)
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edge
Jul 11, 2012, 6:03 AM
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Hezekiel wrote: Just a noob freaking out or should I retire? And if it's ok should i cut the end? Or does it really matter? =)
So a piece of rope walks into a bar and grabs a seat. The bartender yells, "Hey, are you a piece of rope? We don't serve your kind here."
The rope walks outside, tussles up his end, and coils himself into a loop. He then walks back into the bar.
The bartender yells again, "Hey aren't you that piece of rope that I just threw out?"
To which the rope replies, "Nope. I'm a frayed knot."
Click me!
The moral of this story is: It's fine. Maybe heat up a knife to sear the ends a little bit to tidy it up. I wouldn't use a lighter directly on it.
(This post was edited by edge on Jul 11, 2012, 6:05 AM)
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Hezekiel
Jul 11, 2012, 2:40 PM
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Thanks. I thought so. Just wanted to make sure and didn't want to drop my partner =)
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macblaze
Jul 11, 2012, 6:04 PM
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I hate discovering something is a thread revival by coming across stymingersfink in them... It always freaks me out.
:-(
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billcoe_
Jul 12, 2012, 8:07 AM
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macblaze wrote: I hate discovering something is a thread revival by coming across stymingersfink in them... It always freaks me out. :-(
Yeah, I figured it out when I saw my own post:-) I'd reply different now based on what I know. I'd say to the first guy, if there was even 1/10000 of a chance you got battery acid on your harness toss it out. That includes sitting it down on the paved road next to your car when coming back from climbing (as we have seen a new rope fail (ie, part into 2 pieces and climber hit the deck) in a gym lead fall later lab tested to have sulfuric acid contamination and that's all the rope owner could think of, that he'd sat it by the road coming back form climbing outside ONE TIME).
If the last guy who parked in that spot you sat your rope/harness/sling pulled his battery out of the car or just had some of the crust off this battery terminal fall off onto the ground, then just toss your ____insert soft good here) .
The sulfuric acid will make stuff look frayed but it's invisible.
So pay close attention to your soft goods. Use rope bags, keep yer harness in a pack at all times unless wearing it.
In my mind, I fully believe (with no other evident to the contrary) the Skinner harness was undoubtedly contaminated with sulfuric acid. Todd was quite handy and that POS VW van he trucked around in would have been a natural thing.
2nd harness, same thing applies: but it LOOKS like thats just a thread left over from the Mfg process.
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